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Forbidden Way, 5.11a

 
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Forbidden Way, 5.11a
6th Pitch- 45m- 5.10a/ This is a pitch taken from Milky Way. Step up and right on somewhat precarious rock to clip a bolt. Continue up and left to clip a slung (2009) bolt. If this bolt is no longer slung, keep in mind it would be best to fix some cordellete to the bolt as your traverse needs to be made much lower. Start the rightward traverse (10m) by stepping down a move or two to find a small toe rail. Continue on the exposed, blind and run out traverse until you reach easier ground in which to ascend to a small ledge with a third bolt. You can place a yellow C3 along the way, but that was not a placement I would trust to hold a fall. From that third bolt, continue on a rightward angle through some bad rock clipping another bolt in a shallow corner. Then use positive edge climbing on much better rock to move up and right to a much more significant corner. Place gear here and make a move at the grade out and right to the bolted semi hanging belay (3 bolts).
Forbidden Way, 5.11a, 7 Pitches, Kahl Wall, Yamnuska, Canmore, Alberta, September 2009

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TyeDyeTwinsGreat stuff.

TyeDyeTwins

Voted 10/10

What a beautiful photo. Looks like an awsome climb. Thanks for sharing this one with us Dow. Happy Trails out there
Posted Nov 9, 2009 7:13 pm

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Dow WilliamsSubmitted by Dow Williams
on Oct 5, 2009 11:04 am

Image ID: 560372
Hits: 464 
Object Title: Forbidden Way, 5.11a

Image Type(s): Rock Climbing