Dave Daly - Jan 3, 2013 1:22 pm Date Climbed: May 27, 2012
More Freaks On 'Freak'!!
After attempting this 2 years previous, Rob Behrans, Josh Mucci and I completed the route. Initially, we were going to launch on May 25th but a late spring snow storm kept us on the ground. Eventually, the rock dried and off we went. Having fixed to Pitch 4 previously, quick work was made of the remaining pitches. Pitch 5 went to Rob, doing a stellar job of turning it into a clean aid pitch (C2+) with the aid of fixed heads from Craig and friends from the FA in the 80's. Pitch 6 fell on Josh, who worked hard to get into the crack above the traverse. Unfortunately, we didn't have a fat Bat Hook (only Talons) to make the last move into the crack. Josh managed to free that move (5.9/5.10). And the last pitch, before the Borneo Traverse was handed to me. Off the corner ledge, you yard above a tree and into a wide groove that involved "digging" your way up munge with poor pro. There are the occasional fixed pins when the business gets tough. Part way up that pitch, you will need to move out right onto exposed rock then back into the groove above (pucker factor!). There are two options to top out onto the belay ledge (loose rock!). Both ways go at 5.8. Once on the ledge, go up another 15' , left of a tree and locate two fixed pins. The descent is a challenging one, especially in the dark! The Borneo Traverse is a jungle affair through manzanita but manageable. Read Craig's descent description. Nails the details well. Nice route! And now that its modernized, should be friendly for the next series of parties. Good luck and have fun!
Craig Peer - Jun 11, 2007 11:57 pm Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2007
2nd ascent complete
Carolyn and I completed the 2nd ascent cruising along over 4 glorious June days. All old 1/4" bolts are more or less replaced with bomber 3/8" Fixe bolts where needed. All belays to #5 are backed up the 2 - 3 new 3/8" bolts. New revised topo and modern gear list to follow.
Climbed to pitch 4 in very very hot weather. Too hot to get much done really, except hang out in the shade when possible. No previous ascents in the 20 years since my first ascent. Drilled 2 good 3/8" bolts at belays # 2, 3 and 4. Bomber anchors now.
Dave Daly - Jan 3, 2013 1:22 pm Date Climbed: May 27, 2012
More Freaks On 'Freak'!!After attempting this 2 years previous, Rob Behrans, Josh Mucci and I completed the route. Initially, we were going to launch on May 25th but a late spring snow storm kept us on the ground. Eventually, the rock dried and off we went. Having fixed to Pitch 4 previously, quick work was made of the remaining pitches. Pitch 5 went to Rob, doing a stellar job of turning it into a clean aid pitch (C2+) with the aid of fixed heads from Craig and friends from the FA in the 80's. Pitch 6 fell on Josh, who worked hard to get into the crack above the traverse. Unfortunately, we didn't have a fat Bat Hook (only Talons) to make the last move into the crack. Josh managed to free that move (5.9/5.10). And the last pitch, before the Borneo Traverse was handed to me. Off the corner ledge, you yard above a tree and into a wide groove that involved "digging" your way up munge with poor pro. There are the occasional fixed pins when the business gets tough. Part way up that pitch, you will need to move out right onto exposed rock then back into the groove above (pucker factor!). There are two options to top out onto the belay ledge (loose rock!). Both ways go at 5.8. Once on the ledge, go up another 15' , left of a tree and locate two fixed pins. The descent is a challenging one, especially in the dark! The Borneo Traverse is a jungle affair through manzanita but manageable. Read Craig's descent description. Nails the details well. Nice route! And now that its modernized, should be friendly for the next series of parties. Good luck and have fun!
Craig Peer - Jun 11, 2007 11:57 pm Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2007
2nd ascent completeCarolyn and I completed the 2nd ascent cruising along over 4 glorious June days. All old 1/4" bolts are more or less replaced with bomber 3/8" Fixe bolts where needed. All belays to #5 are backed up the 2 - 3 new 3/8" bolts. New revised topo and modern gear list to follow.
Craig Peer - Sep 8, 2006 5:09 pm Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2006
2nd ascent attemptClimbed to pitch 4 in very very hot weather. Too hot to get much done really, except hang out in the shade when possible. No previous ascents in the 20 years since my first ascent. Drilled 2 good 3/8" bolts at belays # 2, 3 and 4. Bomber anchors now.
Craig Peer - Sep 8, 2006 5:04 pm
Good fun.First ascent with Gary Hinton and Blaine Neeley over 4 days. Good fun.