
| Climbed with T. Haines. First 2.5 pitches after bergshrund were good snow then it turned into ice at flutings. First pitch of ice was short and about 75* at most and not very great ice, but not bad. Seven pitches on ice total. Last six pitches had amazing, very plastic ice. Last pitch had a short section of 80*-85* ice for 20´ then the second half of the pitch was steep snow that tools didn´t really hold on, but a little balance gets you to the top. Amazing mountain. Amazing route. Ferrari was closed due to a huge cornice on the summit ridge. |