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6556 Hits
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79.04% Score
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10 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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39.64200°N / 106.3208°W |
Route Type:
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Mixed |
Season:
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Winter |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Difficulty:
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M5+ WI5 |
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Number of Pitches:
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1 |
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Overview
An amazing route located directly behind the infamous Fang and to the right of Cupcake Corner. For some reason, this route boasts several well accepted names, the most common being: Thang, Little Thang, Frigid Inseminator, Rigid Inseminator, and The Tongue. Whatever you decided to call this climb, it is an amazing and challenging line that rarely touches the ground.
TRing the climb and onto the ice.Getting There
Getting to Vail is simple. Take I-70 west, (about 100 miles if you start in Denver proper). Take the first exit to Vail, also called the E Vail exit, to access the most classic of the climbs and to reach the 'Frigid Inseminator'. Parking is a hassle due to access issues, and it is best to arrive early on the weekend.As of 2007 there seem to be conflicting signs at the Pumphouse parking lot talkingt about pay. I have never had an issue here and it is best to park here, where the trail is marked clearly for ice climbers. As always, please be respectful towards other and stay on the designated ice climbers trail.
Route Description
There are three obvious bolts that protect the rock section, (M5+) and it is by no means a cake walk, even though it is short. Some delicate moves lead to jug-ledges and then to fairly steep ice. Be careful not to gain the ice too soon or you could rip it off! Sometimes the upper bolt it covered in ice, leaving only two to clip before gaining the ice.Continue up growing but insecure edges towards the ice.
The purple line shows the route and the balck X's show bolts. (Note one bolt is covered by ice, there should be one more!)Carefully gain the ice and climb straight up for another 90 feet or so to fixe anchors. The ice becomes less steep near teh top in most years, so climb efficient and fast on the lwoer steep section, (but make sure to protect it every once and a while with a screw!) Be delicate when the ice is thin as to not break it away from the rock and destroy the climb for other. If it is fat, enjoy and swing away!
Some mixed gear that can tackle this climb. Essential Gear
Along with the typical crampons and axes, you will need three draws to protect the three bolts at the beginning of the route, unless they are covered in ice. A stick clip can be useful to clip the first bolt. For the ice, shorter screws (10cm stubies) will protect the bottom and larger screws will protect the top. It is up to you as to how many you bring, but most need two stubies and two/three mid-length screws. The anchors have locking biners on them, so no draws are needed for the top.[img:369230:aligncenter:small:Some mixed gear that can tackle this climb. ]
Please wear a helmet and be safe, there is of ice and rock fall in this area.