Gamsov skret

Overview

Gamsov skret is an unmarked and demanding route, and an on-sight descent is not recommendable. It is the most direct access from the Kamniška Bistrica valley to Veliki Podi, the grounds above Kogel.

At an altitude of 2100m, the bivouac hut on Veliki Podi (no water) may be a goal of its own, the closest summits (and walls) being those of Skuta, Štruca, Dolgi hrbet and Grintovec.

The part of this route below the squeeze is very frequented by climbers approaching the Kogel south wall.

Getting There

From the Kamniška Bistrica trailhead to the lower station of the supply cableway for the Cojzova Koča hut, we follow a marked path signposted Grintovec and/or Cojzova Koča, Kokrško Sedlo (less than 1h walk, starting along the road to the right of the hut).

It is possible to drive to the lower station along a macadamized road (beware: there is another hut supply cableway, serving the Kamniško Sedlo hut).

Route Description

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From the lower station of the cableway, we continue along the dirt road (the marked path for Grintovec via Cojzova Koča on Kokrško Sedlo is to the left).
As the road splits, we stick to the one on the left. The "road" turns into a path and starts winding left hand till crossing a gully (Mali Hudi graben). We now wind (at length) through a steep forest on the right bank of this gully. The path crosses the gully (right hand) as it reaches a major wall. The gully might be somewhat loose. The path continues on the gully's left bank through a scarce little forest and next arrives to the base of a large slope made of grass, rocks and scree streaks (snow in the springtime). Stick to the path (snakes) until hitting the outer east part of Kogel's S face. The approach path to the Kogel wall splits left hand. We turn slightly to the right, properly heading for the squeeze between Kogel and Veliki greben. One pitch of grade II climbing (quite secured) takes us through the squeeze, up to steep grass slopes. Continuing up these slopes (slightly westwards/left) we will bump into the marked traverse path (the bivouac hut on Veliki podi being to the W along the marked path).

> Alternate ending: above the squeeze we may cross an uneasy gully righthand, and then follow a large ramp towards the Veliki greben summit (heading for the Mali podi bivouac hut).

Essential Gear

1:25000 map
Tips for Safe Trips to the Mountains : to the bottom of the page there is a chapter about equipment.

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