CBakwin - Aug 4, 2009 4:45 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2009
Yo
After camping a little way up Tourist Creek, we went to the summit in 6 1/2 hours, and then I returned to the trailhead (Green River Lakes) in 10 hours. Really tough haul. On the way in , passed my brother coming out from a new Fastest Known Time record on Gannett. Congrats Peter!!
SarahThompson - Aug 3, 2009 10:22 pm Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2009
Plan B due to bad weather, no views
I had no intention of climbing Gannett during our 8 day trip into the Winds but poor weather prevented us from attempting our more technical goals on this day. Gannett made a good "bad weather peak" and was an easy climb from our camp at 10,800ft near Dinwoody Glacier. Visibility was very limited and it was snowing lightly on and off. The bergschrund was starting to open on one side but was still easily passable on the right.
96avs01 - Aug 3, 2009 12:11 am Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2009
Sweet Views...
until a thunder/snowstorm rolled in at 10:30 AM and chased us down. Only party to summit, the other two waited ~500' below the summit ridge for the weather to clear and it didn't cooperate. Lots of snow remained from the end of Titcomb Basin, berg snowbridge looked like it might hold out for 2 more weeks. Had to punt on plans for Fremont's SW Buttress due to a low pressure system that moved in on our summit day.
One of my favorite climbs thus far. Straightforward alpine climbing in a gorgeous area!
sbkelley - Jul 17, 2009 1:02 am Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2009
Titcomb Basin
One of the more difficult state highpoints to get, but definitely the most rewarding so far. Long approach, heavy pack, thick mosquitoes and the re-climb of Bonney Pass all work against you, but trekking through jaw-dropping scenery all the way helps. The snow and the main route were in great shape on this particular day - the crevasse at the bergschrund had started to open up, but we crossed to climbers right on solid snow. From there, we gained the incredibly scenic summit ridge and the celebration was on.
This was the single-most challenging, exciting, and rewarding mountaineering trip I have had until now. This is definitely the second-most difficult State Highpoint to summit, without question. I have a lot of respect for my climbing partner, who made the difficult decision to quit his ascent when within 800'-900' elevation from the summit and already beyond the bergschrund, because he had a nagging injury. It takes a strong person to turn around after going through so much and getting so close. I wanted to turn around and end my summmit attempt to help him down the mountain, but because I was already past the "most technical" portion of the climb he pressed me to continue to the summit and then I caught up to him during the descent. The successful summit, my 39th State Highpoint achieved, felt empty without my partner with me, but then I was glad to have spent the remainder of the trip trying to give him first-aid and improvisational assistance. He couldn't walk out the 21 miles from our high camp, but fortunately we found an outfitter who took him out the final 16 miles via horseback (while I hiked it solo). This trip will be in my thoughts forever.
SpiceMan - Jul 10, 2009 2:31 am Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2009
North Face
Did it on my NOLS trip. left camp at 3:30 and postholed up the north face. It was hot that day but still a good climb. Went down the Goose Neck then glissaded back to camp.
With Jill and Homer. Made the summit, but my body was broken on this one. Had some blown-out hips that ended up making each step painful. On the hike out I was shot, dragging along in agony, and suffered ignominious humiliation when studly Homer took pity on me and relieved me of some of my burden. I felt better then physically but far worse mentally. I guess not every trip can be an ecstatically blissful experience. Anyway, this is a beautiful mountain in a beautiful range.
We overnighted in the Titcomb Basin the first night and then moved over Dinwoody to ascend the sweet little couloir to Gannett's summit ridge the next day. My dog and I round tripped this one from Pocatello to Pocatello in 72 hours. Epic!!
Ted Eliason - Jan 16, 2009 6:47 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 1994
Worst Mosquitos Ever
Tromping through meadow upon soggy meadow of mosquites in the eyes, ears, nose, mouth. I'll come back when I can haul a sled over the snow.
Great climb when you finally get to it. Not to technical. We def. carried way to much technical gear. In most scenarios a rope is not even needed.
Moogie737 - Aug 25, 2008 10:06 am Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2008
Titcomb Basin/Bonney Pass Route
Brent & I hiked in to the north end of upper Titcomb lake on day #1, scouted out Bonney Pass & returned to camp day #2, hiked to the summit and back on day #3, and hiked out to Elkhart TH on day #4. The experience was tough but well worth the effort. No ropes necessary. This was Brent's 3rd time on the summit but my first. If I can, I will submit a trip report. It froze the day we hiked out, and the mosquito population was either stunned or killed; the first 3 days were undoubtedly heaven for the little buggers - fresh flesh!
northface28 - Aug 19, 2008 5:38 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2008
1st try! Thank you God
I did this climb in 2 days from the Pinedale-Titcomb basin approach. I pushed to the top of Bonney pass and camped the first day. The second day I hit the summit and hiked out. It took 25 hours all together. I should have done it in one day since I didn't get any sleep anywase.
pyerger - Aug 13, 2008 11:15 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2009
try try again
I have tried this mountain two times, once from Titcomb basin, and once from Green river lakes (north ridge), and have been stopped both times. we were planning going there again in early July of 2008, but there was to much snow on the trail.We will try again in the summer of 09. 7 20/09 finally made the summit via. titcomb. The snow was perfect for a summit. did mt. Fremont as well.
BCJ - Aug 11, 2008 11:35 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2008
Great Conditions
The snow is in great shape and the 'schrund wasn't an issue in the slightest. Never used the rope. We took four days...first night at Island Lake, second on top of Bonney Pass, and the third at the bottom of Titcomb Basin. Only saw three other climbers above Titcomb Basin and we had the summit to ourselves. Beautiful climb.
gajuhl - Aug 3, 2008 8:20 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2008
gooseneck
Elkhart/Bonney Pass/Gooseneck still in great shape. More or less snowfree til above high camp. Schrund is still covered. A nearby fire is dropping lots of smoke and ash in the area: A touch hard to breath/see at times; also the ash is making the snow particularly soft in the sun. The folks at the USFS station in Pinedale might have up to date info on the fire.
The bergschrund is just beginning to open up a bit at the edges. Snow in the chute is perfect for kicking steps. We decided not to use the rope due to the favorable conditions and lack of a 'schrund. This will likely change in another week or two. Some folks are taking to the snowfield and going around the rocks leading to the upper ridge, but I wouldn't advise it. The route through the rocks is pretty straightforward and the snowfield has significant exposure to the summit cliffs. Skeeters were pretty bad everywhere but high camp.
COnditions were great for climbing. Plenty of snow filling in the bergschrund. The summit ridge was covered with snow and lots of fun to traverse. Summit itself was open rock and the canister is now accessible, though the papers inside are just a pile of mush.
The approach via the Glacier Trail is was mostly clear of snow, the stream crossings were a breeze, but the swarms of mosquitos had a voracious appetite that kept us moving right up until dinner time each day.
We had a great string of weather. Crystal clear sunshine everyday for the five days we were in there. Only one brief t'storm in the middle of our last night coming out.
I trained hard for this trip. Not nearly hard enough! The 25 mile hike to the base of Gannett and back again is the hardest hike I've ever done. Summit day was routine glacier travel, taking 3 hours and 22 minutes. No register was visible with all the snow around the summit. Awesome views!
atpezboy - Jul 9, 2008 11:14 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2008
Standard Route via Bonney Pass
Perfect climb with summit to ourselves. The standard route from Bonney Pass doesn't get any better than this year. No protection was required. Bergschrund was covered by 20 feet of snow. Only 1 crevasse was visible on route. Bonney Pass was covered in snow on both sides making for easy access. the only downside is the amount of snow on the approach through Titcomb Basin. This is definitely the year to climb.
CBakwin - Aug 4, 2009 4:45 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2009
YoAfter camping a little way up Tourist Creek, we went to the summit in 6 1/2 hours, and then I returned to the trailhead (Green River Lakes) in 10 hours. Really tough haul. On the way in , passed my brother coming out from a new Fastest Known Time record on Gannett. Congrats Peter!!
SarahThompson - Aug 3, 2009 10:22 pm Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2009
Plan B due to bad weather, no viewsI had no intention of climbing Gannett during our 8 day trip into the Winds but poor weather prevented us from attempting our more technical goals on this day. Gannett made a good "bad weather peak" and was an easy climb from our camp at 10,800ft near Dinwoody Glacier. Visibility was very limited and it was snowing lightly on and off. The bergschrund was starting to open on one side but was still easily passable on the right.
96avs01 - Aug 3, 2009 12:11 am Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2009
Sweet Views...until a thunder/snowstorm rolled in at 10:30 AM and chased us down. Only party to summit, the other two waited ~500' below the summit ridge for the weather to clear and it didn't cooperate. Lots of snow remained from the end of Titcomb Basin, berg snowbridge looked like it might hold out for 2 more weeks. Had to punt on plans for Fremont's SW Buttress due to a low pressure system that moved in on our summit day.
Snowy - Jul 31, 2009 2:01 pm
Std. RouteOne of my favorite climbs thus far. Straightforward alpine climbing in a gorgeous area!
sbkelley - Jul 17, 2009 1:02 am Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2009
Titcomb BasinOne of the more difficult state highpoints to get, but definitely the most rewarding so far. Long approach, heavy pack, thick mosquitoes and the re-climb of Bonney Pass all work against you, but trekking through jaw-dropping scenery all the way helps. The snow and the main route were in great shape on this particular day - the crevasse at the bergschrund had started to open up, but we crossed to climbers right on solid snow. From there, we gained the incredibly scenic summit ridge and the celebration was on.
Redwic - Jul 14, 2009 9:47 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2009
What A Trip!!!This was the single-most challenging, exciting, and rewarding mountaineering trip I have had until now. This is definitely the second-most difficult State Highpoint to summit, without question. I have a lot of respect for my climbing partner, who made the difficult decision to quit his ascent when within 800'-900' elevation from the summit and already beyond the bergschrund, because he had a nagging injury. It takes a strong person to turn around after going through so much and getting so close. I wanted to turn around and end my summmit attempt to help him down the mountain, but because I was already past the "most technical" portion of the climb he pressed me to continue to the summit and then I caught up to him during the descent. The successful summit, my 39th State Highpoint achieved, felt empty without my partner with me, but then I was glad to have spent the remainder of the trip trying to give him first-aid and improvisational assistance. He couldn't walk out the 21 miles from our high camp, but fortunately we found an outfitter who took him out the final 16 miles via horseback (while I hiked it solo). This trip will be in my thoughts forever.
SpiceMan - Jul 10, 2009 2:31 am Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2009
North FaceDid it on my NOLS trip. left camp at 3:30 and postholed up the north face. It was hot that day but still a good climb. Went down the Goose Neck then glissaded back to camp.
TheRootster - Jun 21, 2009 1:30 pm
from Pole Creek trailWith Jill and Homer. Made the summit, but my body was broken on this one. Had some blown-out hips that ended up making each step painful. On the hike out I was shot, dragging along in agony, and suffered ignominious humiliation when studly Homer took pity on me and relieved me of some of my burden. I felt better then physically but far worse mentally. I guess not every trip can be an ecstatically blissful experience. Anyway, this is a beautiful mountain in a beautiful range.
junoiceclimber - Apr 13, 2009 6:11 pm Date Climbed: Jul 14, 1997
Success with Cerro, my puppy!We overnighted in the Titcomb Basin the first night and then moved over Dinwoody to ascend the sweet little couloir to Gannett's summit ridge the next day. My dog and I round tripped this one from Pocatello to Pocatello in 72 hours. Epic!!
Ted Eliason - Jan 16, 2009 6:47 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 1994
Worst Mosquitos EverTromping through meadow upon soggy meadow of mosquites in the eyes, ears, nose, mouth. I'll come back when I can haul a sled over the snow.
alphasteve - Dec 24, 2008 2:13 am
Super Rugged ApproachGreat climb when you finally get to it. Not to technical. We def. carried way to much technical gear. In most scenarios a rope is not even needed.
Moogie737 - Aug 25, 2008 10:06 am Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2008
Titcomb Basin/Bonney Pass RouteBrent & I hiked in to the north end of upper Titcomb lake on day #1, scouted out Bonney Pass & returned to camp day #2, hiked to the summit and back on day #3, and hiked out to Elkhart TH on day #4. The experience was tough but well worth the effort. No ropes necessary. This was Brent's 3rd time on the summit but my first. If I can, I will submit a trip report. It froze the day we hiked out, and the mosquito population was either stunned or killed; the first 3 days were undoubtedly heaven for the little buggers - fresh flesh!
northface28 - Aug 19, 2008 5:38 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2008
1st try! Thank you GodI did this climb in 2 days from the Pinedale-Titcomb basin approach. I pushed to the top of Bonney pass and camped the first day. The second day I hit the summit and hiked out. It took 25 hours all together. I should have done it in one day since I didn't get any sleep anywase.
pyerger - Aug 13, 2008 11:15 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2009
try try againI have tried this mountain two times, once from Titcomb basin, and once from Green river lakes (north ridge), and have been stopped both times. we were planning going there again in early July of 2008, but there was to much snow on the trail.We will try again in the summer of 09. 7 20/09 finally made the summit via. titcomb. The snow was perfect for a summit. did mt. Fremont as well.
BCJ - Aug 11, 2008 11:35 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2008
Great ConditionsThe snow is in great shape and the 'schrund wasn't an issue in the slightest. Never used the rope. We took four days...first night at Island Lake, second on top of Bonney Pass, and the third at the bottom of Titcomb Basin. Only saw three other climbers above Titcomb Basin and we had the summit to ourselves. Beautiful climb.
gajuhl - Aug 3, 2008 8:20 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2008
gooseneckElkhart/Bonney Pass/Gooseneck still in great shape. More or less snowfree til above high camp. Schrund is still covered. A nearby fire is dropping lots of smoke and ash in the area: A touch hard to breath/see at times; also the ash is making the snow particularly soft in the sun. The folks at the USFS station in Pinedale might have up to date info on the fire.
capnmetro29 - Jul 30, 2008 1:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2008
Mountain in Good ShapeThe bergschrund is just beginning to open up a bit at the edges. Snow in the chute is perfect for kicking steps. We decided not to use the rope due to the favorable conditions and lack of a 'schrund. This will likely change in another week or two. Some folks are taking to the snowfield and going around the rocks leading to the upper ridge, but I wouldn't advise it. The route through the rocks is pretty straightforward and the snowfield has significant exposure to the summit cliffs. Skeeters were pretty bad everywhere but high camp.
chilkoot - Jul 20, 2008 11:57 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2008
Mosquito FestCOnditions were great for climbing. Plenty of snow filling in the bergschrund. The summit ridge was covered with snow and lots of fun to traverse. Summit itself was open rock and the canister is now accessible, though the papers inside are just a pile of mush.
The approach via the Glacier Trail is was mostly clear of snow, the stream crossings were a breeze, but the swarms of mosquitos had a voracious appetite that kept us moving right up until dinner time each day.
We had a great string of weather. Crystal clear sunshine everyday for the five days we were in there. Only one brief t'storm in the middle of our last night coming out.
wmokszycki - Jul 15, 2008 2:55 pm Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2008
Highpoint #45I trained hard for this trip. Not nearly hard enough! The 25 mile hike to the base of Gannett and back again is the hardest hike I've ever done. Summit day was routine glacier travel, taking 3 hours and 22 minutes. No register was visible with all the snow around the summit. Awesome views!
atpezboy - Jul 9, 2008 11:14 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2008
Standard Route via Bonney PassPerfect climb with summit to ourselves. The standard route from Bonney Pass doesn't get any better than this year. No protection was required. Bergschrund was covered by 20 feet of snow. Only 1 crevasse was visible on route. Bonney Pass was covered in snow on both sides making for easy access. the only downside is the amount of snow on the approach through Titcomb Basin. This is definitely the year to climb.