sawback - Aug 14, 2011 10:51 am Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2011
Barely 5.9
I agree with Dow about the rating. The 5.9 pitches are probably 5.8 at most. The best pitch of the route is actually to the left of the described chimney pitch 9, a 5.9 hand crack. Eric's topo (it's his topo that Dow posted) describes it as 10b but it's a lot easier than that; and, no, I didn't make any long reaches. I posted a topo made by Conrad Janzen ca 2006 that shows this pitch -- see the photos for this.
Overall, with the 5.9 hand crack pitch but otherwise following Eric's Generosity Var, I would give this route one star, or maybe 2 stars if you're feeling a bit of Generosity (out of three stars; three out of five on the Summitpost scale). Worth doing.
sawback - Aug 14, 2011 10:51 am Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2011
Barely 5.9I agree with Dow about the rating. The 5.9 pitches are probably 5.8 at most. The best pitch of the route is actually to the left of the described chimney pitch 9, a 5.9 hand crack. Eric's topo (it's his topo that Dow posted) describes it as 10b but it's a lot easier than that; and, no, I didn't make any long reaches. I posted a topo made by Conrad Janzen ca 2006 that shows this pitch -- see the photos for this.
Overall, with the 5.9 hand crack pitch but otherwise following Eric's Generosity Var, I would give this route one star, or maybe 2 stars if you're feeling a bit of Generosity (out of three stars; three out of five on the Summitpost scale). Worth doing.