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sawbackBarely 5.9  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2011
I agree with Dow about the rating. The 5.9 pitches are probably 5.8 at most. The best pitch of the route is actually to the left of the described chimney pitch 9, a 5.9 hand crack. Eric's topo (it's his topo that Dow posted) describes it as 10b but it's a lot easier than that; and, no, I didn't make any long reaches. I posted a topo made by Conrad Janzen ca 2006 that shows this pitch -- see the photos for this.

Overall, with the 5.9 hand crack pitch but otherwise following Eric's Generosity Var, I would give this route one star, or maybe 2 stars if you're feeling a bit of Generosity (out of three stars; three out of five on the Summitpost scale). Worth doing.
Posted Aug 14, 2011 10:51 am

Dow WilliamsGenerosity  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2008

Dow Williams

Out of 13 pitches, only 3 are 5.9 and I led them all. Did not think any of them were more interesting than the 9th chimney pitch which is 5.8, traversing into an interesting chimney section. The last 5.9, pitch 11, would be the crux I suppose. One of my partners started it and bailed. Start out right with gear and traverse back left onto the arete via a somewhat exposed move to follow a bolt line up good rock to a large ledge, a full 60m. Ok routes, if into EEOR, one to do, if just visiting, there are better routes on the face. With Jackie and Steve.
Posted Sep 2, 2008 11:57 am

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