Gilligan’s Island, 5.4-5.10d : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview/Approach

Hit It Ethel- 5.8

Gilligan’s Island is located off of Boy Scout Trail at the entrance to Wonderland North in Joshua Tree National Park. Gilligan’s is comprised of two significant walls (Mary Anne’s Face and Ginger’s Face) and a much smaller feature named Gilligan’s Island Boulder. All three offer worthy moderate crack climbs. Gilligan’s Island Boulder has my favorite trad climb of this group, River Phoenix (5.9), a thought provoking finger crack line. Ginger’s Face (the left face) has two of the better moderates after that: As the Wind Blows (5.7+) and Through the Looking Glass (5.9). Gilligan’s Island was first worked in 1988 by Jack Marshall and company. Most of the climbs are south facing and offer a warm winter destination usually void of other climbers.

Park at the Boy Scout Trail trailhead and hike approximately one mile to the T intersection. Turn left and Gilligan’s Island comes into view. Hike another .2 miles to the base of the walls. Mary Anne’s face is on the left, Ginger’s Face is on the right and Gilligan’s Island Boulder is to the lower right of Ginger’s Face.

Route Description(s)

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the Walls
Ginger’s Face

Ginger’s Crack- 5.10d/*

Through the Looking Glass- 5.9/*
Mirrors "Hit it Ethel" on the right wall. Up a short crack to bolted slab. More of a slab climb then a crack climb. Slung fixed rap up and left. Dow

Gun for the Sun- 5.10a/*

As the Wind Blows- 5.7+/*
This is a decent trad pitch by Jtree standards and for the grade. Over 100' up an obvious corner. Rap Through the Looking Glass. Dow

Mary Anne or Ginger?- 5.10a/*

Mary Anne’s Face

Northwest Passage- 5.10a/*

Ape Man Hop- 5.10a/*

Route 66- 5.4/*

Hit It Ethel- 5.8/*
This pitch pretty much mirrors "Through the Looking Glass" on the left wall. Fun and short crack leads to an easy traverse and slab through bolts to finish. Decent length, over 100'. Single bolt rap hanger at the top to the left. Dow

Gilligan’s Island Boulder
River Phoenix- 5.9/*
My favorite of the group and definitely the most challenging. Small intricate gear placements up steep intermittent finger cracks with a few hand jams when you need them. The pitch is short. Walk off right. Dow

Roomis E. Gloomis- 5.10d/*

Lovely, aka Whale of a Time- 5.8/*
Least desirable of the group as well as the least challenging for the grade. One bolt protects a fun mantle move off the deck, then an easy crack leads to an easy face. Walk off right. Dow

Three-Hour Tour- 5.8/

Teddy- 5.9/

External Links

Joshua Tree National Park Including Map.

Campsites

Images