I met this handsome guy in the summer of 1950 when I engaged one of his guides to climb the mighty Grand. He reminded me of the Actor Gilbert Roland. I understand that Exum rejected a Hollywood career to climb mountains.
Glenn Exum was running the Exum Guide Service in August 1960 when my cousin, Janet Crane, and I signed up to climb Cube Point. We did so because the weather was unfavorable for climbing the Grand Teton — which was her first choice. Sterling Neale lead our climb and there were 4 of us on the trip plus Sterling. The weather was not so good — cold and some snow flurries — the youngest member of our party and my cousin were both seriously scared of everything about the trip. So everything took longer than it should have. As we were setting up for the final rappel off Cube Point, my cousin lost her footing and fell to her death. After that, it was my task to seek help and I descended the mountain and notified the guide service. Glenn took me by car to where my parents and Janets parents were staying to give them the bad news. I learned much later that his son, Ed Exum, was part of the recovery party. But I do recall Glen as being incredibly kind and thoughtful. Sterling Neale, I understand, left the climbing world after the accident. I have no idea what happened to him. He was clearly competent and careful. Even after my cousin fell, he remained composed and conscientious. I would certainly like to have him know that I have carried that opinion of his leadership for the 50 years since that fateful day.
I met Glenn Exum ten years earlier at Jenny Lake. Exum arranged for one of his assistants to drag me up the Grand Teton in 1950. His attractive blond wife impressed me as well. On line I managed to find a faded copy of the summit register for July 1950 and saw my signature on the weathered notebook paper.