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dadndaveVery Informative


Voted 10/10

Great route page, Fred. Gives a real sense of what to expect.
Posted Feb 22, 2006 1:14 am

LuisoGood work


Voted 10/10

Excellent route photos collection: there are just the key passages and well showed.
As well, you attribute to the route a difficulty more real nowadays, with all that aids there, than the IV or even IV+ that we can read in many places (Could that be so climbing by the pure rock?)
Posted Dec 20, 2008 6:18 am

CharlesWell written


Voted 10/10

Thanks Fred, good page!

Posted Dec 22, 2008 6:07 am

granitepeakerRoute Protection


Hasn't voted

as far as fixed protection on the route how many bolts and pitons are there?

what type of active protection should a two man team have?
hexes? cams? ice srews? etc??

Also how long of a rope do you recommend?
Posted Mar 3, 2010 12:36 pm

MoniRe: Route Protection


Hasn't voted

A standard 50 M rope will do just fine. Practice climbing in Glacier and the Missions unroped. You need to be able to climb exposed crap for rock with little pro. We did not rope up until just below the Solvay hut. Most fixed pro are above the hut and are big burly rods with an eye hook. I don't recall us taking much of anything else along - some slings and biners. If climbing unguided, expect at least 13 hours round trip.
Posted Mar 3, 2010 9:11 pm

granitepeakerrope diameter?


Hasn't voted

is an 8.1mm rope to thin for the hornli route?
Posted Jun 24, 2010 6:05 pm

Fred SpickerRe: rope diameter?

Fred Spicker

Hasn't voted

Not in my opinion.
Posted Jun 25, 2010 9:08 am

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