Horndogger, 5.8+

Horndogger, 5.8+

1st Pitch- 200’- 5.8+/ The climbing topo at Supertopo.com can be tough to follow on its own. It shows climbing straight up the wall to the left of the Friar between a crack on the left and a chimney that runs up the side of the Friar. However, I advise using the crack to the left to place protection as you climb just to the right of a significant roof. Once you get to the roof, traverse right onto a ledge. Make sure to use double ropes technique and run one rope up the crack with a double runner used before the traverse. To avoid immense rope drag, if you are bringing two climbers up, I advise that one climb the face so you do not have to direct your 2nd rope. Move right a considerable distance, but not into the chimney behind the Friar. At a tree, go ahead and jump up to the suspect white rock above with no protection in sight. As you climb on run out ground, continue moving left and you will follow into a groove full of huecos and thus pockets in which you can place cams. Large gear would be preferable here including a #5 camelot. Continue until you reach the end of your 60m ropes and build a station in large huecos with a small stance. Horndogger Select to Sundog, 8 pitches in total, 5.10a, Rainbow Mountain, Red Rocks, NV, November, 2007
Dow Williams
on Nov 19, 2007 3:05 pm
Image Type(s): Rock Climbing
Image ID: 358181

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