day 1: leave Sorata and camp at Laguna Chillata
day 2: Get to ¨just below¨ Laguna Glacier
day 3: Summit push ANCOHUMA...steep, AD rating
day 4: traverse to Aquas Calientes (trailhead for Illampu)
day 5: move to Illampu high camp
day 6: Summit push ILLAMPU...D rating. Perfect weather!
Day 7: Walk down to Sorata...need a shower!
Simul-climbed the headwall...and downclimbed it on the way down. We were lucky to hit the route on a perfect weather day.
It was a beautiful day for it. No wind at all, lots of sunshine. We climbed the left hand side of the ice face, because we had heard that there was a big bergschrund on the other side.
The upper ridge was a bit easier than I thought it would be. Perhaps that's because I was on an emotional high after climbing the steep ice face. While at some places the ridge was steep too, it was easier because it wasn't the knife-edge that I somehow expected it to be.
"Got tight last night on absinthe and did knife tricks. Great success shooting the knife into the piano. The woodworms are so bad and eat hell out of all furniture that you can always claim the woodworms did it."