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bighornmonkeyTwo-fer on the Ilinizas  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 20, 2009

bighornmonkey

Climbed Iliniza SUR (La Rampa/Direct Route), then NORTE on the same day. Good snow coverage prevented rockfall on the direct route which I was told makes it dangerous these days.
We came down the same way we went up after a 5:00am start from the hut.

I made a youtube video of the climb: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sD87z5DEoYM
Posted Feb 2, 2009 4:56 pm

ChristianRodriguezNormal route, technical ones  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 19, 2008

ChristianRodriguez

Guatemalan team split on this volcano, Edgar returns without the summit. Heloise(FRA) and Boris (ECU) guided to Siomara (GUA) she was very slow that day. Jose (ECU) and me reached summit a couple of hours before. Great views in the climbing but over the top just a few seconds with good visibility.
Posted Sep 8, 2008 12:39 am

cristakhenormal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 30, 2008

cristakhe

The route is very nice but you need to be fast because of wet snow during the day. Nice place, widhout any other climbers.
Posted Feb 26, 2008 9:51 am

Boriss AndeanRoute Climbed: Normal Route.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 19, 2008

Boriss Andean

Our slowest climb ever in Illiniza Sur. It took us 8 and a half hours RT from the refuge. Ice/snow conditions weren't the best due to the softness of it on the final approach to the summit.

This climb was done with Heloise (FRA) while guiding a team from Guatemala, Xiomara and Christian. One of them (Edgar) got AMS and had to be lowered to the refuge just minutes after he started climbing up.
Posted Jan 31, 2008 7:18 pm

Boriss AndeanRoute Climbed: Normal Route.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 27, 2007

Boriss Andean

Very fast climb to the summit, 2h15 from the refuge. Weather was perfect as the view of the surrounding mountains.

Climbed with Heloise (FRANCE). We climbed both peaks, Illiniza Norte and Sur the same day.
Posted Jan 31, 2008 9:47 am

HotfeetCool route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 11, 2008

Hotfeet

A very intense mountain to climb. A magnificent mountain. Water at the hut was awful.
Posted Jan 21, 2008 10:14 pm

leftyNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 31, 2007

lefty

There was lots of snow on the route making the conditions pretty good for a summit bid on this day. My first glacier climb in Ecuador was a success. La Rampa Route had no snow on it.
Posted Jan 16, 2008 1:02 am

Boriss AndeanRoute Climbed: Normal Route.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 11, 2007

Boriss Andean

One of my best climbs of Illiniza Sur. Good weather and perfect snow conditions. Cravasses were visible and ice bridges very compacted.

Climbed with Jana (Czech Republic). Views from the summit were awesome!
Posted Sep 26, 2007 11:43 pm

Jessica LIliniza Sur  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 27, 2006
Great climb! My guide and I left early (4am) and had good snow conditions, but it was much worse on the descent as it became quite warm. The summit was cloudy, so there were no good views, which ended up not mattering since I accidently formatted my camera and lost the pictures from the first 5 days. I guess I'll have to climb it again!
Posted Apr 15, 2007 12:27 am

knowlesjustinPuts things in perspective
Date Climbed: Mar 17, 2004

knowlesjustin

As we plodded up the normal route in gore-tex, a platoon of Ecuador reserve troops past us up to the refugio and back in sweats. Their fitness things in perspective for our group.

We were turned around by extremely high winds a little below 17,000, but the trip is highly recommended.
Posted Nov 14, 2006 3:05 am

Thomas Gurvieznormal route
Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2006

Thomas Gurviez

we have to give up at 4800 m (bottom of glacier) due to heavy snowfall during the night, that made the exposed traverse to the glacier dangerous. no more ice on the former direct route, which has completely melt...
hike on iliniza norte then to replace sur
Posted Oct 10, 2006 4:53 pm

osatrikIlinza Sur - normal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 11, 2002

osatrik

OSAT group -- what a wonderful route, nice glacier route. Probably the best moderate (i.e. no ice protection required when we did it) steep glacier climb I've ever done.
Posted Aug 14, 2006 7:31 pm

Igor Czsnormal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 15, 1997

Igor Czs

Me and my frien Alexandre reached the top in bad wheather conditions.No views....The summit itself is an instable cornice.
5 hs from the hut at 4700mts.
Posted May 10, 2006 12:14 am

summiterRoute Climbed: Unsure  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 15, 2005

summiter

We camped next to the refuge. Luckily there was no one there to keep us awake! At the time I didnt have a sleeping bag and my friend forgot to bring me one! So I rolled up in a good quality space blanket, put on all my coats and stuff and made an ok night out of it. I am unsure of the route we took, "Uncle" Rick was looking around for the route as he had not been there in a while. We ended up rock climbing up a small section which led right to the glacier. On the glacier we had another rock climb, made awkward only because of the boots and crampons. I thouroghly enjoyed this climb, and the summit was the coolest one I've seen yet. The view was great!
Posted Mar 30, 2006 1:28 am

carolina.altamiranoNormal  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 28, 2006

carolina.altamirano

Cloudy summit, the last part was terrible, there was powder snow that made the last part seem endless. The refugio is not very nice, I think it is better, as we did, to bring a tent and camp next to the refugio.
Posted Mar 7, 2006 3:01 pm

climberbenRoute Climbed: Standard Direct Date Climbed: 29 October 2000  Sucess!

climberben

Left the refugio in the dark in clear skies. Had perfect conditions and were on top in two hours. We watched the sunrise from the summit and downclimbed the route back to the hut.
Posted Dec 25, 2005 9:07 pm

esugiRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: July 27, 2005

esugi

Left the refugio in wet, windy, and poor visibility conditions. We went the lower route to reach the glacier to avoid rockfall but had route finding problems. After 3 hours, we finally reached the glacier but by then, we were completely soaked and were covered in ice from head to toe.



We pushed on for little while on the glacier but we finally turned around approx. 600 feet from the summit. We were pretty cold and prospect of down climbing in poor weather made the decision easy for us.



I'll try again some day.
Posted Aug 5, 2005 11:00 pm

RModelliRoute Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: Jna 18, 2005  Sucess!

RModelli

Great climb, the technical part of it was much shorter than what I had anticipated, didn't place any pro and did a couple of running belays on the way back, other than that the route was great and the climb has amazing views.


The ascent we went around the ridge and over the glacier. The descent we shortcutted over the glacier on ice, it was faster but a little more risky.
Posted Feb 20, 2005 9:19 pm

neodayRoute Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: January 18, 2005  Sucess!

neoday

Excellent climb! I learned this lesson the hard way, so please take heed:

when they say the approach to the hut takes 3 hours- don't take it as a challenge to do it faster. I did it in 2hours 20minutes. The next day (summit day) I was more fatigued than I needed to be from racing up the approach (which gained me NOTHING, except for this valuable lesson)

about 4 hours to the summit and 1.5 back down I believe. Great, well actually Amazing views! Plenty of fun exposure. Snow pack was stable and hard. We traveled over quite a bit of glacial ice that had little or no snow. Crampons were absolutley necessary. I brought 2 technical tools (BD Vipers) and an ice axe. It was fun to have both tools, but 1 would have been enough in conjunction with my ice axe (BD Raven Pro 65 cm)
Posted Feb 15, 2005 1:10 pm

big_gRoute Climbed: Ruta Normal  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2004

big_g

Had an experience similar to Tom's below minus the 40 others in the refuge! Yikes there's only 14 bunks!

Wonderful climb and my favorite in Ecuador. Great weather and some views but not from the summit.
Posted Aug 13, 2004 6:05 pm

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