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Italian normal route

 
Italian normal route

Page Type: Route

Location: Graub√ľnden (Bernina), Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.37150°N / 9.88330°E

Object Title: Italian normal route

Route Type: Ice-rock classic route

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: AD

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: andrea.it

Created/Edited: May 10, 2005 / May 26, 2008

Object ID: 165004

Hits: 2947 

Page Score: 73.77%  - 4 Votes 

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Approach

This unusual route permits to climb the Piz Roseg from the italian side.
It starts from the "Passo Sella" 3269m, that is also reachable from the Chamanna Coaz.
Th icey west flanks of the mountain are getting smaller caused by the global warming.This is why this route was more famous in the past and not existing for longer.
Bivouac Parravicini(3183 m.) is the starting point and it's situated on an isle of rock on the eastern part of upper Scerscen glacier, nearly the Sella pass.
The best way from Italy is from Marinelli-Bombardieri hut all across the Scerscen glacier(usually no crevasses warning).
Marinelli-Bombardieri hut is a point where many paths goes trough;
from Val Malenco,from Campo Moro lakes an even from Val Poschiavo(CH).
Ref.Marinelli-biv.Parravicini 2hours on easy walkup on glacier.

Route Description

From bivouac Parravicini: start very early to north direction,being carefully the crevasses, and than go trough the Sella pass (3269 m.).
Keep walking in the same direction and border the west flank of Piz.Roseg.
From that point should visible a small ice slope (in italian "Vedretta"), quite steepy, connects the swiss side of the main glacier (Vedret da la Sella) to the north-west ridge(swiss normal route). This is the worst part of the route, the surface of the slope is rarely in good condition.
Last september(2004), the first part of it (as you can see in the pic), wasn't existing anymore.
So it's better to approach it on the right side rocks (attention falling stones).
Climb it for all the length following the normal Swiss route ,continue along the very exposed ridge untill the second and main summit of 3937m.

Images

Marinelli hutThe glacier of Scerscen...The way from Marinelli hut.The Parravicini BivacThe south-west side of Piz...This is the slope that...The south side of Bernina...
Unnamed Photo