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Iztaccihuatl Climber's Log

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Oscar Rangel CorreaRoute Climbed: Route of teyotl Date Climbed: jul 1998  Sucess!
Good experience in my couse of middle mountain, the Teyotl to be down of the head of Iztlaccihuatl
Posted May 7, 2005 5:10 pm

soslawRoute Climbed: Ayoloco glacier Date Climbed: January 13, 2003  Sucess!


Climbed with Andre. After failing the previous year with a guided group because one of the climbers developed AMS at the hut at the base of the glaicer, I returned with my climbing partner Andre to do the rte without a guide. We climbed the glacier via a more direct rte than that used by guided groups who essentially only traverse the base of the glacier and still call it a glacier climb. Very windy along the Arista del Sol but clear on the summit where we continued to watch Popo belch steam and ash. We spent 2 days acclimatizing at 13K where everything was covered with ash.
Posted Apr 18, 2005 2:39 pm

patascentRoute Climbed: La Arista del Sol Date Climbed: January 30, 2003  Sucess!


Day climb from La Joya because the mid mountain hut was too nasty to sleep in.
Posted Apr 6, 2005 4:26 pm

bc44caesarRoute Climbed: Arista del Sol Date Climbed: 23 Mar 2005  Sucess!


Got a ride in a taxi up to La Joya from Ameca and stayed the night. Next day packed everything I had up to the hut in 2.5 hrs and then went on to the summit in another 2. Stayed the night at the hut to acclimatise better and headed on out to Tlachichuca. It was pretty windy up top, but very little snow and I never had to use crampons.
Posted Apr 1, 2005 12:43 pm

GlennMerrillRoute Climbed: La Arista del Sol Date Climbed: March 2004  Sucess!


Good climb. Had to hike out to Paso de Cortez because our taxi driver said it would a lot more to come pick us up at the end of the climb. So we told him not to pick us up, hiked out, and got a free ride down to Amecameca.
Posted Feb 27, 2005 8:04 pm

joseguzman58Route Climbed: La Arista del Sol Date Climbed: February the 6th, 2005.


Went from Altzomoni to the Grupo de los Cien refuge on our first day. The big packs made the hike anything but a joke. The hut was packed, so the area around ended looking like a tent jamboree. Second day was Saturday night, complete with a group of drunks singing (they didn'have good voices, and they didn't know the song's lyrics), firing fireckrackers, and a storm howling and pumping dust inside he sleeping bags, tents, cloths, etc. The morning brought some ice, freezing rain, fog and more wind. Out of the probably 100 or 120 climbers, only six of use made a bid for the summit. Made it to the Knee (5000 meters), and decided no to risk it no more. The conditions were horrible, it was a white-out, and it was very cold. I am very pleased with having reached my first 5000 meters elevation. Pico de Orizaba was waiting for me in only two more days.
Posted Feb 10, 2005 3:58 pm

jweidmanRoute Climbed: La Arista del Sol Date Climbed: 18 Nov 2002  Sucess!


Climbed solo after Kenny turned back. Bad weather and near white-out near top. Ended up being a very long day.
Posted Jan 10, 2005 3:54 pm

sdespinsRoute Climbed: Normal - Arista del Sol Date Climbed: December 11, 2004  Sucess!


Beautiful weather, long trek. Amazing views of Popo.

Stayed at Altzomoni hut (very nice - must get keys at Paseo de Cortes).

Ayoloco hut still around. Republica de Chile hut does not exist. If climbing normal route, only option is Albuge de los Cien which is a tin covered structure which is overcrowded and dirty. Many camp but the entire area is a mess. don't expect to sleep inside the hut. better options are camping before the hut or up at the feet.

You must bring all your water with you making the first part of the climb a bit tough. I was planning on a 2 day tour (1st day from Altzomoni to Albuge de los Cien and then summit next day) and carried up 9 litres of water plus other food and gear. Ended up summitting in one day but was glad for the water anyway. I found some trustworthy locals to watch my big pack while I hit the summit. Otherwise, leaving behind gear can mean trouble especially on a weekend.

Compliments to a local climber, the original "pecho" summit is down off the first summit (with larger cross and other markings) across another glacier valley and the closest you can get to the "head". There is a smaller, cross here which may be snow covered. It is only about 10 - 15 minutes more but well worth it. From here you can see the ice wall route from the "head". Both "pecho" summits are after the Pico de la luna and Pico del Sol.

Locals report that climbing the "head" is suspect due to robberies, etc. starting the climb from San Rafael as that area of the national forest is not guarded.

See trip report for more details.

Posted Dec 21, 2004 5:10 pm

RamosRoute Climbed: Arista del Sol Date Climbed: May 5 2004  Sucess!


This climb was of two days, we camped in the knees, whe got to the summit at 6:00 am
Posted Nov 2, 2004 10:50 am

pacojgarzaRoute Climbed: La Arista del Sol Date Climbed: October-23-2004  Sucess!


I finally reached the elusive summit of Izta on my third attempt, this time with gorgeous weather. Snow was present from just below the knees all the way to the summit and it was in good condition. We had great views of Popo, Orizaba, Malinche and Nevado de Toluca.

It turned out to be a long slog due to our large group (28 people) from Monterrey, México, but it was well worth it.

This hike is far more enjoyable than Orizaba and I wouldn`t hesitate to do it again.
Posted Nov 1, 2004 2:11 am

ripper333Route Climbed: arista del sol Date Climbed: dec 2001
one push from la joya. late start and one long

day. coolest thing ever neighboring popo was

puffing away while on the summit of izta.
Posted Oct 20, 2004 10:34 pm

tloganRoute Climbed: Arista del Sol Date Climbed: Oct. 17 2004  Sucess!


Beautiful day... slept a grand total of 0 hours the night before... with 75 camped in and around the hut we were woefully unprepared and paid for it dearly.

The next morning while fighting exhaustion, diarrhea and stomach cramps we left at 4:30 and I somehow made it up to the rodillas in an hour and a half and from there on was relatively smooth sailing... a beautiful day, beautiful mountain and a marvelous sunrise... even Popo gave a little hiccup.

The snow was very firm, styrofoamy and was easy to work up and down in... though you could tell I was one of the few who felt that way... one of the advantages to living in a wintery haven for most of my life I suppose...

I truly love this mountain it offers so much to the eye and for an alpine experience... Orizaba is more one dimensional... simply up and up and up.. Izta has it all!
Posted Oct 17, 2004 7:27 pm

mxclimberRoute Climbed: La arista del sol Date Climbed: April 4 2004  Sucess!


nice weather reached the summit at about 9
Posted Sep 16, 2004 11:38 am

amcfarreRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: Feb 12, 2004  Sucess!


I enjoyed this climb far more than Orizaba. Much more interesting and with great views of Popo.

Lots of pictures at:

Posted Jul 15, 2004 5:11 pm

esugiRoute Climbed: Ayoloco Glacier Date Climbed: February 19, 2004  Sucess!


Left the Ayoloco Hut at 3:30 am and summitted at 7:15 am. Beautiful Day. The glacier was in terrible condition so we mainly stayed to the left through many gulleys and rock. We barely touched foot on the glacier. No affect of altitude at all. Drank lots of water. Perfect acclimitization climb!

We did not see anyone else the entire day (not even from the normal route). It only took couple of hours to descend. We packed and headed back to La Joya and on to Orizaba!
Posted Feb 28, 2004 6:08 pm

HalikuRoute Climbed: La Arista del Sol Date Climbed: 27Jan 04  Sucess!


We had beautiful weather. Left La Joya at 0200 under clear sky. Before the dawn it was cold and found us on the snowfields above the hut.

We only crossed two glaicier areas, the belly and the crater to the summit. Conditions were completely dry. A storm a few days later blanketed all the high peaks in the region with a white coat.

It took us 13+ hours roundtrip due to an teammate getting injured at 17,300 on the way down.
Posted Feb 3, 2004 10:38 pm

mtnfotoDate Climbed: Jan 1976 and Feb 1993  Sucess!
Lots more snow the first time I did it. Guided three clients in '93.
Posted Jan 21, 2004 1:52 pm

markeRoute Climbed: Ayoloco Glacier Date Climbed: November 24, 2003


What a beautiful mountain!!! We arrived on November 22, and camped just below La Joya. The following day we carried to 14,400 feet on the high route to the Ayoloco Hut. Our summit day was hampered by weather, but we did manage to make it to the top of the Ayolodo Glacier at 16,600 feet!!! The white lady is more beautiful in person than I had ever imagined.

--Mark, Scott, Nate
Posted Dec 11, 2003 5:59 pm

photo61guyRoute Climbed: La Arista del Sol Date Climbed: January 18, 2003  Sucess!
After leaving La Joya we camped at about 14,300', and continued the next day to the summit. Great weather and photography.
Posted Dec 10, 2003 2:10 am

RobtRoute Climbed: La Arista del Sol Date Climbed: Nov. 28, 2002  Sucess!


See John's TR: Mexico Day Hikes.
Posted Nov 5, 2003 3:21 pm

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