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Iztaccihuatl Climber's Log

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Sara_MatisseAyoloco Glacier  Sucess!

Sara_Matisse

Great climb with my buddy Frank:) We were dropped off by a cab and starting hiking immediately. We ended up setting up camp around 13,500+ feet. Moved camp the following day to 15,000ft and the hut. We only saw one other guy on the route - which was really nice. The following morning we went for the summit and only met one guided group on the top from Cali (small world)! Then hiked all the way out and were lucky enough to find a VERY nice younger couple to give us a ride out:)
Posted Aug 11, 2007 11:14 am

Shirley LamI was surprised...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 25, 2006

Shirley Lam

by how many locals just walk up this thing as if it were a bump in the road! Although it's crowded on the weekend, the bonus is the lady selling beer and tacos at the trailhead...
Posted Jul 26, 2007 4:17 pm

ahaassahaass  Sucess!

ahaass

Great experience! Fantastic Weather.
Posted Jul 23, 2007 10:15 pm

tloganAritsa del Sol  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 20, 2007

tlogan

Had another enjoyable climb of Izta... as always my luch held out and the weather was god despite the season. I had forgotten both how heavy a climb this was, and how enjoyable... an incredible mountain to say the least with plenty to offer in terms of mountain experiences.
Posted May 21, 2007 2:28 pm

doumallVisually Simulating Scree Slog  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 31, 2007

doumall

A stark contrast to Orizaba in terms of terrain. 24 hours on the mountain with my girl Debbie. Tent camped 100m up the trail from La Joya on a bench amidst grazing cattle. 3:15am to 8:10am summit the next morning. Delicious $1 tacos from a stall at La Joya after the climb were priceless. Glacier is dying; no technical gear was required in the conditions we found. We never even took our axes off or our crampons out of our packs. A brief class 3 scramble was enjoyable and seemed unavoidable. Orizaba, Teotihuacan and Mexico City urban and historic districts were also part of this trip.
Posted Apr 5, 2007 6:14 pm

shanahan96first high mountain  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 27, 2007

shanahan96

this was an incredible experience! jamie nellis and i spent three days climbing this wonder for acclimization purposes, and every moment of it will be stored in my mind for a very long time.

climb iztaccihuatl when she's covered in snow, the scree wasn't too pleasant to say the least.

jamie
Posted Apr 3, 2007 1:03 am

Mescalito345Arista del Sol  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 27, 2006

Mescalito345

On December 27, we woke up early and attempted a day-hike to the Ixta summit. It was a very interesting climb involving rock scrambling, cramponing, hiking up steep scree slopes, etc. Class 3 rock scrambling seemed strange while wearing plastic boots at an elevation of around 16,000 feet. After reaching a false summit in mid-morning, we looked down on the "belly glacier". We stopped to put on crampons and headed across the glacier. After crossing the glacier, we took off our crampons and made the final push to the summit (17,300 feet).

From the summit, we took some pictures of Popocatepetl (17,900 feet) erupting. Popo has been off-limits for several years due to its frequent eruptions.

Here are some pictures from the trip:

http://pkuroda.smugmug.com/gallery/2320804#12137853
Posted Mar 11, 2007 1:24 am

WallylongridgeGlaciar de Ayoloco

Wallylongridge

I did this for a warm-up for Orizaba & Popocatepetl
Posted Feb 18, 2007 7:21 pm

1mverticalLa Arista del Sol  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 19, 2007

1mvertical

Climbed in a day from La Joya after tons of acclimatization on Orizaba. We did the same thing weeds19 did, tagging at least 4 high points. GPS showed same altitude +/- 2 meters on all high points. This was a long day...
Posted Jan 22, 2007 7:20 pm

weeds19Ayoloco Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 31, 2006

weeds19

We came in from La Joya carrying many liters of water and spent a night at the Ayoloco Hut before attempting the climb. We awoke in the morning to a cloud-obscured route and decided to sleep a little longer. After another hour the clouds lifted and we headed out and up onto the Ayoloco Glacier and perfect snow conditions. A couple hours later we had navigated to the three summit areas and felt satisfied that we had stood on the highest ground!
Posted Jan 11, 2007 7:16 am

Dave SAyoloco Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 31, 2006

Dave S

Great way to spend New Year's Eve! Spent the night prior at the Ayoloco Hut, climbed the glacier then joined La Arista del Sol to the summit. Spent another night in the hut (and witnessed the fireworks all across Mexico City at midnight for the New Year's celebration) and then hiked out on New Year's day for some great tacos in La Joya while waiting for our ride:)
Posted Jan 8, 2007 7:57 pm

SharonArista del Sol
Date Climbed: Feb 6, 1990

Sharon

Steve & Craig went on to summit while I was stuck at 14,436 ft/4400m with AMS. Blech! But-- the view was spectacular from the saddle we camped at: hut #3, summit, Popo, Amecameca, Puebla, Orizaba. Mexico City's lights filled the entire valley at night: major boulevards identifiable. No rope taken or needed. Crampons not used. Huts filthy.

Partners: Steve Reynolds, Craig Grossman
Posted Dec 22, 2006 4:08 am

renogurtHello  Sucess!

renogurt

A great warm-up for Orizaba. I thought this one was harder with all the false summits. Make sure you get a good deal on the taxi ride up there, we payed the equivalent of 20 bucks for all four of us.
Posted Oct 5, 2006 2:02 am

Nyle WaltonOne day on Ixtaccihuatl  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 15, 1957

Nyle Walton

With three classmates from Mexico City College, I rode a VW to Paso Cortez and spent several hours climbing to the Sleeping Woman's knees. Clouds then descended and deprived us from any view. With little motivation to go on, we turned back short of Ixtaccihuatl's boobs, her highest point, and descended back toward Paso Cortez. Somehow Ixti did not present the same personal challenges as did Popocatepetl and Orizaba. You may examine two photos I took on this climb in my summitpost submissions.
Posted Aug 18, 2006 3:59 pm

ElCapitanKoolAidMany days up here  Sucess!

ElCapitanKoolAid

I have spent on " La panza" around 45 days climbing spread in several trips. My team U.N.A.M. used to require to spend climbing rock and ice fro 15 days in spring break to test you before a major climb in The Andes, Himalaya or elsewhre. We use to run on la arista del Sol. Climb Glaciares Orientales, El Colador, Pena Aguilera and many othe formations.
Posted May 22, 2006 3:49 am

willowArista del Sol  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 2, 2006

willow

Really really enjoyed this route. The terrain and the view continually change, so it is quite nice. Gene Allwine and I started at the Altzomoni hut at 2:30am and summited at 9:30am. If you're ever at the park and want information and history of the area, ask to speak with Miguel Espinal. He is a volunteer climbing guide and a great guy who is usually at the Altzomoni hostel if not on the mountain.
Posted Apr 5, 2006 4:13 pm

tjbst47Iztaccihuatl  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 29, 2006

tjbst47

Arista del Sol route. From Grupo hut, I went up a shoot to the left of standard route to the ruins. I think it was easier that way because of snow.
Posted Mar 30, 2006 3:25 pm

Woodie HopperLa Arista Del Sol  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 5, 2006

Woodie Hopper

Summited as a solo climb using the "normal route" which ascends via the portillo to the knees in one day. I had some route finding trouble en route to the portillo. Not much snow/ice when I climbed, so I used conventional goretex boots and trekking poles. The old summit icefield has diminished to such an extent that it no longer is the highest point of the mountain. Volcanic cinders, scree and loose rock make the hike up to the knees a little painful, but the hiking is much more enjoyable above the knees to the summit. A long but enjoyable day!

Reclimbed Iztaccihuatl Jan. 28, 2014 with Mike Preece, Appleton Scutchfield and Ryan Swapp. We had great luck with the weather. I didn't even bring my crampons, but I did a short glissade with my axe onto the Ayoloco glacier. Thankfully Mike brought a nice camera along! Another great day.
Posted Feb 14, 2006 1:58 pm

MountainjumperRoute Climbed: La Arista del Sol Date Climbed: December 20, 2005  Sucess!

Mountainjumper

Rather then drive to La Joya, Began @ Buena Vista, took 3 days to reach the summit. I had no adverse altitude effects on the climb. Water was accessable and also given to us at the Hut by 20+ college students from Mexico City just leaving. Weather was beautiful until decent on summit day. Also found ice melt water several meters down the draw, West of the Hut. Left @ 4:30 on the 20th. Not much wind and a beautiful sunrise. Popo erupted several times during the climb which produced nice photos. Kept a photo log of the entire trip. No issues to deal with but was surprised to not see much snow and glaciers were melting. No need for crampons or ice ax but took if needed. Guide had us use crampons across the glacier going up. Summitted @ 10:37 a.m. Storm came in so made a rapid decent to knees then down the scree field NW of the Hut. Picked up gear and decended to La Joya by 4:00. Wonderful day!
Posted Jan 24, 2006 1:34 pm

PanchoescaleroRoute Climbed: McAllister Hut Route Date Climbed: January 5, 2006  Sucess!
Can't really call this the Ayoloco Glacier route anymore because there is no more glacier. A GREAT route though. Water can be had below La Joya, above the first saddle on the lower approach, and in the form of ice to melt at the McAllister hut.
Posted Jan 16, 2006 7:06 pm

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