James Dillis

Europe's Triple Crown

I just completed Europe's Triple Crown: Eiger-West Flank and West Ridge, Matterhorn - Hornli Route, and Mont Blanc - Gouter Route and would like to share any info to those interested.  I 'soloed' each route, (climbed alone with others on these crowded popular routes).
Eiger - West Flank and West Ridge
I camped just beyond the Eigegletscher Station and left at 0400 on the last day of July 2013.  I had bluebird weather and excellent conditions on the mountain.  I followed the well marked trail,(blue/white paint) up to the beginning of the lower benches where there were about 4 fixed ropes of varying lengths.  These were used on the descent.  I climbed un-roped carrying a 50m 9mm rope  for the descent.  After the lower benches, the upper part of the lower section also has several fixed ropes which made route finding easy.   Up ahead I noticed some headlamps, which belonged to three Germans.  I met them on top.  Overall the route is well defined, but can be tricky on the way down.  There are some slings that may lead you astray and the cairns are difficult to spot on the way down, they tend to blend in as you view them from above.  I used the "Bernese Oberland" guidebook by Les Swindin and albeit short, it is accurate.  I summitted at 1012, in just over 6 hours.  The upper part of the mountain had fresh snow from a storm 4 days prior.   It also took me 6 hours to descend which included about 6 rappels, (three using my 50m rope).   Gear needed: Crampons, Ice axe, harness, rope (I liked my 50m 9mm) couple of slings.
Matterhorn - Hornli Route.
Overall, this was a great climb.  I did not experience any of the stories of the obnoxious guides, overcrowding, and falling rock.  Weather was sketchy, and the Hornli Hut only had about 70 people.  I left the hut, number 31 in line at 0410.  We proceeded up to the fixed ropes and after about 20 minutes, the lead guides began to distance themselves from the pack.  Route finding was not an issue, and again I climbed unroped, carrying my 50m 9mm for the descent.  It did snow a little just before the Solvay Hut.   I summited at 0837.  The route has nothing harder than about 5.5.  The fixed ropes up near the top were a little crowded, with the early groups descending as we were ascending.  Again, no issues all were very considerate.  The top was awesome with great weather.  The descent took just over four hours back to the Hornli hut, I rapped the upper section along with some Italian using his 30m rope, then left him as I was faster.  I used my 50m rope to rap about 4 times on the lower sections with no issues.  Gear needed: Crampons, Ice axe, Harness, and rope.  (again I liked my 50m 9mm).
Mont Blanc - Gouter Route.
Weather in Chamonix was dismal all week with rain.  They predicted good weather on Saturday, but the hut was full.  I left for the Nid d'Aigle on Thursday the 8th of Aug.  The hike up to the Gouter Hut was straightforward.  Route finding easy with about 6 inches of new snow.  The hut had 25 people that night.  We left at around 0330.  Weather was okay, cold and windy.  Due to the recent snows, all you needed was a ski pole with a whippet on it.  I did not have mine, but carried a 70cm axe which proved useless on the way up.  I climbed un-roped the entire climb with no issues of feeling unsafe.  It is a walk up.  The summit was very windy and cold.  I made it in just over 5 hours and back to the Gouter hut in three hours.  Down to the cog railway took about 3 hours and fortunately the train awaited my arrival.  What a blessing. 
Gear needed: Crampons, Ice axe, ski pole with large basket.

Direct questions to:
jbdo@pge.com