James Turner

Overview

James Turner is a high remote peak in Garibaldi park. It is an isolated peak that stands alone and is circled by glaciers on all sides. A full day is required to approach this peak across several glaciers and is often done as a ski trip. The climb is probably best done in sping under firm snow conditions since this makes for a steep but somewhat easy climb to the summit and avoids loose rock and creavasses on the approach that will form in the summer months.

Getting There and Routes

1) Via Wedgemount lake trail. This is a long trip if doing it from Wedgemnount lake. Take the Wedgemount lake trail from highway 99 aprox 11.5 km's past Whistler Village trafic lights. A sign guiding you to the trail will be on your right side. After 3-4 hrs you will reach the alpine and come across the Wedgemount lake hut. From here it is a long trip or several glaciers. You will aim for the low point in the col between Wedge and Weart mountains, the two tallest peaks in Garibaldi park. Once reaching the col your objective will be insight but a great distance away. Drop down the other side and cross several glaciers including the Weart, Needle and Chaos glaciers. This route will take you around the west side to the Turner glacier which leads you to the SW face. Climb steep snow slope in spring or loose rock slope in summer. Allow 3 days or 2 if you are a mutant.

2) The quicker way is to buy a Blackcomb lift ticket(aporox $40.00 CAN) and drop down the backside (great sking) into Wedge pass. I would push for camping at Berma lake on day 1. From here The Turner glacier is just an hour away and the summit probably ony a few hours. Ascend SW face as per longer route from Wedgemount lake. Should be easily doable in two days by a strong party.

3) The North face which can be approcahed via Wedgemount lake as per the SW face but rather than swinging around the backside head straight for the north face. This is a tough technical route however. TD 5.7 ice

Red Tape

No real red tape, as far as fee's and the such. However if approaching from Whistler you will need to buy a lift ticket to the summit of Blackcomb mountain where you will drop down the backside. Being located in a provincial park fires and pets are prohibited, nothing to burn, and not a place you would bring a pet anyway.

Images

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