Jan high on the route Rogelio, at Escalera Arabe

Jan high on the route Rogelio, at Escalera Arabe

According to our guidebook, "Rogelio" was supposed to be a 120 m route, sports grade 4+ / USA 5.8. Well, the guidebook proved to be wrong. By now we've clearly passed the 120 m mark, and there were more bolts, so we kept going. Eventually we reached the top. The last pitch was easy scrambling, which we did unroped. But the two pitches before that were much harder than 4+. Much later, I searched for more information about the route and found a summary on 27Crags.com. As expected, the two harder pitches were graded well above 4+, at 5+ (5.10a) and 6a (5.10b) respectively. In other words, the guidebook seriously needs updating. Expecting only 120 m, I had left my pack at the base of the route, and didn't carry any water. And what if a couple of climbers that are just about able to lead 4+ find themselves high up there, struggling way above their ability? 7 December 2014.
rgg
on Dec 20, 2014 2:38 pm
Image Type(s): Rock Climbing,  Informational
Image ID: 925077

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