"Got tight last night on absinthe and did knife tricks. Great success shooting the knife into the piano. The woodworms are so bad and eat hell out of all furniture that you can always claim the woodworms did it."
--Ernest Hemingway
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tahoe - Aug 31, 2009 7:25 pm - Hasn't voted
Crux above cams...I found the most difficult part of the climb to be a short section (~6 ft.) above the diagonal crack that takes cams (1-1.5"), which I believe is between bolts 2 and 3. Even with the gear, you are looking at a substantial fall onto the knob-studded face below if you don't make it to the next bolt hanger beyond the gear crack. I doubt this section would give a solid 5.8 slab climber much pause, but would likely be unsafe for a fledgling 5.7 leader in my opinion. You can also start this route directly below, or just right of the first bolt, though the difficulty then increases to 5.8-5.9 (better for the 2nd). Also, if continuing up to the Sea of Tranquility P1 anchor you may want to have a few cams (up to 2") onboard to protect the low 5th class climbing. Fun!