OverviewJoffre Peak is the second highest peak in the Joffre group after Mount Matier. It is located northeast of Pemberton along the Duffy lake road. Most approaches traverse either the Anniversary Glacier accessed by the Cerise Creek Trail to the east, or the Matier Glacier accessed by the Joffre Lakes trail to the west. Trailheads are about a three-hour drive from Vancouver. This is an outstanding group of mountains offering multiple routes up multiple peaks, all accessible from whatever single campsite you choose. You could spend a week camping on the glacier doing a different peak every day. Nearby peaks include: Mount Matier, Mount Hartzel, Mount Spetch, Mount Howard, and Rex’s Pillar.
Alpine Select Climbs in Southwest British Columbia & Northern Washington by Kevin McLane is an outstanding book that covers details of many routes and approaches to these and other nearby mountains. Buy it! (Use the link here for info. It's not on Amazon)
Bivouac.com Joffre Peak page is another good source of information & photos.
Climbing in British Columbia The Joffre Group is also helpful.
Visit the BC Parks Joffre Lakes Provincial Park
Getting ThereThere are two major approaches to the Joffre group. Both are reached by following the Sea to Sky Highway (99) North from Vancouver. Continue past Whistler, past Pemberton, towards Lillooet. Highway 99 is called Duffey Lake Road between Mount Currie and Lillooet.
Joffre Lakes Trail:
From Highway 99 (Duffy Lake Road) there is a well-marked BC Parks trailhead on the right hand side of the highway if you are traveling from Vancouver/Whistler/Pemberton. Parking is just off the highway and is accessible in any type of vehicle. It’s about 60 km from Whistler.
Cerise Creek Trail:
Continuing along the highway another 12 km past Joffre Lakes is the turn off to the Cerise Creek Trail. This is not so well marked. It is a very sharp turn on the right that travels back almost parallel to where you came from. It is right before Van Horlick Creek. If you cross over Van Horlick creek, you have gone too far. As you continue in, road conditions worsen. Good suspension and high clearance are a must! Stay to the right after Caspar Creek as you pass the quarry. In July, the bushes are so thick on either side of the road, you’d better not be too worried about your paint job. Cross Cerise Creek traveling to your right, then take the first left to the parking area, which is a gravel lot from which both Matier and Joffre summits are visible. In winter time, road access is limited and parties must ski in.
Joffre Lakes Provincial Park Map shows the Joffre Lakes parking area off the highway and the Matier Glacier west side (note: North is down on this map) of Matier, Joffre, and western surrounding mountains.
The Canadian federal topo map to get is Duffey Lake 92 J/8.
Red TapePermits and parking passes are not required.
When To ClimbIf you’ve got the right gear and the right experience, you can attempt the mountain year round. Skiers enjoy the spring months in February, March, April, and May when snow is too deep to easily hike in. Depending on the snowfall of a given year, summer months, June - September are best for mountaineering groups wishing to hike in
CampingCamping is permitted anywhere in this area. The Cerise Creek trail leads to a cabin called Keith’s Hut at 1,800m, which was built as a memorial to local climber, Keith Flavell who died in 1986 on Mount Logan. About an hour and a half hike from the trailhead, this sturdy cabin offers a cooking area, eating area, and a big loft upstairs to roll out your sleeping bags. It’s first come, first serve, and payable by donation on the honour system.
If the weather is cooperative and you prefer the beauty of the outdoors, it is recommended that you continue past Keith’s Hut alongside the Anniversary Glacier. Just a little further up, there are great views of both Matier (on the left) and Joffre (on the righ) where you can set up your tents.
Mountain ConditionsAs with all the mountains in this area, weather is very unpredictable with sudden changes. Always be prepared for anything.
For current weather conditions, visit Environment Canada for Pemberton or Environment Canada for Lillooet
For current avalanche conditions, visit Canadian Avalanche Association and check the South Coast forecast.