Karanfil, Unfolded wall: Pulse 560 m, 7a ABO

Overview

Pulse is the first route in one of Karanfil south buttress. Due to its wrinkled features we called it unfolded wall. It can be divided in three sections. The first two can be climbed in simultaneous climb style. The third section contains most of the route's difficulty.

The route style is traditional climbing, with only on piton throughout the the whole route. In the first attempt, on the 1st of June of 2022, J. Oliveira and me abadoned the route in the fifth pitch. An exposed move and heavy rain made us back away. In my second attempt, on the 8th of October of 2022, in the company of B. Leyes and M. Ferrer, we were able surpass the hard move and finish the route. In the fifth pitch, we placed a microcopper before reaching a slope, and a piton from an unconfortable position, nevertheless, the biginning of this pitch is exposed and a level of 7a is required.

All a lesson of patience and commitment.

The route is not equipped. Only one piton in 5th pitch.

Getting There

From Gusinje you need drive to Vusanje where the Ropojansky valley starts . Here after a 2 hours walk, you reach Jezerzo lake (only in Winter and Spring), dry after summer. From the wood shed before the lake, leave the path and go in the direction of the unfolded wall through the forest in a wild path until the base of the wall. From Vusanje to the base of the wall takes 3 hours.

Route Description

First section

going up in easy climbing by the evident part.

Second section

Climbing the dihedral big roof on the right. Later walking right, then left until the base of the third section.

Third section

P1. 60 m, V+: follow a diagonal crack until bellow a roof. 

P2. 35 m, 6a+: follow the crack straight up, then a slab. On the left side of a tree, there is a corner with a big rock with a good place for an anchor.

P3. 40 m, 6c: surpass the block and climbing left until the bottom of a difficult slab. Go up straight, searching for small crimps on right side, then follow stright up. Placing gear in this pitch requires experience.

P4. 35 m, 6b+: it is the most amazing pitch. Follow the ledge right until the weakspot of the wall until bellow a big roof. Climb left above this roof until another weakspot with a horizontal crack. Then go in the direction of a tree with a fallen branch.

P5. 35 m, 7a: it's the crux pitch. Climbing is exposed until the piton. One hook can help getting to the piton. Clip and continue left, it is a difficult and exposed move. Then follow an easy terrain, turning right to avoid the roof.

P6. 60 m, 6b: Climbing in a S shape, surpassing a small roof, until a big tree.

P7. 35 m, V+: wild and broken climb, direction to a natural tree anchor on the right.

Essential Gear

2 sets of friends until #4

1 set of nuts

External Links

Instagram cuadrado.guille

Camptocamp: Karanfil, unfolded wall: Pulse