I love it!
Just two tiny hints: the two photos of mine in section 3 do NOT show Verpeilspitze, that is Watzespitze seen from Kaunergrathütte. Just take pic number 891023 or 478221 for Verpeilspitze.
I´m not completely happy with the Waze normal route rating. Due to the glacier retreat the east arete is now considered as normal route to Waze which is in parts grade IV and a real alpine climb. The former normal route ("glacier route") may be AD end of spring or early in summer when the snow cover is sufficient for an ascent (surely not this year!). Even as descent route for the east arete climbers this route is difficult and has some rappel points in the lower parts of the route to omit the last rock/ice face (grade III). Conditions of this glacier route are changing rapidly - sad enough!
Cheers, Michael
Thanks for the additional info Michael! I'll apply some changes to the page. According to my book '3000er in den Nordalpen' by Goedeke, the new normal route (East arete) to Watze is AD+ (III+/IV);Does that rating correspond with your personal experience?
I'm glad you like the page Michael & happy Climbing!
Cheers, Lodewijk
I think the Goedecke rating should be correct. I didn´t climb the east arete by myself as I´m not a skilled climber. A friend of mine did it once and informed me that there is one step grade IV and the rest being easier (I to III). And - as he said - it is excellent rock.
I was always interested in the mixed glacier / rock route, the former normal route, as this one has an incredible elegant line and gives you steep snow / ice and some I to II grade scramble to the top. I tried it once but had to turn around because of constant rock fall which hit the route and meant fatal danger that day.
Cheers, Michael
selinunte01 - Mar 24, 2014 8:20 am - Voted 10/10
Very nice page!I love it!
Just two tiny hints: the two photos of mine in section 3 do NOT show Verpeilspitze, that is Watzespitze seen from Kaunergrathütte. Just take pic number 891023 or 478221 for Verpeilspitze.
I´m not completely happy with the Waze normal route rating. Due to the glacier retreat the east arete is now considered as normal route to Waze which is in parts grade IV and a real alpine climb. The former normal route ("glacier route") may be AD end of spring or early in summer when the snow cover is sufficient for an ascent (surely not this year!). Even as descent route for the east arete climbers this route is difficult and has some rappel points in the lower parts of the route to omit the last rock/ice face (grade III). Conditions of this glacier route are changing rapidly - sad enough!
Cheers, Michael
Lodewijk - Mar 24, 2014 1:09 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Very nice page!Thanks for the additional info Michael! I'll apply some changes to the page. According to my book '3000er in den Nordalpen' by Goedeke, the new normal route (East arete) to Watze is AD+ (III+/IV);Does that rating correspond with your personal experience?
I'm glad you like the page Michael & happy Climbing!
Cheers, Lodewijk
selinunte01 - Mar 25, 2014 2:09 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Very nice page!Hello Lodewijk,
I think the Goedecke rating should be correct. I didn´t climb the east arete by myself as I´m not a skilled climber. A friend of mine did it once and informed me that there is one step grade IV and the rest being easier (I to III). And - as he said - it is excellent rock.
I was always interested in the mixed glacier / rock route, the former normal route, as this one has an incredible elegant line and gives you steep snow / ice and some I to II grade scramble to the top. I tried it once but had to turn around because of constant rock fall which hit the route and meant fatal danger that day.
Cheers, Michael