Kebnekaise Climber's Log
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Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2016
|Started from Gaskkasjavri at 7PM, we had a windy but easy approach through glacier to Halspasset. Snow was good on Hals, used running belay. Climbing the rock-part was moderately difficult due to rotten snow and ice. Reached the Nordtoppen at migdnight, in a beautiful midnight sun, with no clouds obstructing the views!|
On the ridge snow was quite slippery, crampons and ice axe were required. Temperature was in minus degrees (Celcius).
Descended through Östra and hiked down to Fjällstation just in time when breakfast started :)
|Posted Jul 7, 2016 5:01 pm|
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2001
|Climbed both summits as part of a climbing course.|
|Posted Apr 9, 2016 3:43 am|
|rockymountaindiva||Sydtoppen via Western route |
Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2014
|Trekked from Abisko to Kebnekaise via the Kungsleden, with a small side trip to Nallo. Rented crampons from the gear shop at Kebnekaise Fjallstation, then headed up the western route the next morning. Weather was lovely at start, foggy as we ascended, visibility down to about 6 feet on the snowy part on top. Last section very slick, watched some folks without crampons turn around. The hubby made it too! It was brrrr cold though - the cairns on the section above the emergency huts were covered in ice! Easy route finding with the bright red paint splotches on rocks. 11.5 hrs round trip.|
|Posted Sep 12, 2014 6:33 pm|
|fubar7500||Southern summit via West route |
Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2014
|Nice trek from our tent-camp close to Kebnekasie Fjällstation.|
Low visibility in the upper parts, nevertheless we enjoyed few minutes of round panorama on summit.
|Posted Aug 29, 2014 4:26 am|
|bergbacke||Western route |
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2014
|Hot as hell...|
|Posted Jul 20, 2014 9:53 am|
|bruno baschung||west route |
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2014
|I reached the summit at 1 am Under the midgnight sun. Wonderful trip up there, view is amazing. I spent later a few hours in the refuge at 1880m. It's quite advisable to climb in the night since less people do that and reaching the top is thus both more pleasant and you avoid waiting your turn to climb the last few meters.|
The very last few meters need care in case of some ice up there.
Western route is long but always easy.
|Posted Jul 19, 2014 3:07 am|
|Thomas Jäwert||Högalpinakursen |
Date Climbed: Apr 7, 2010
|Climbed via Halspasset with Daniel and the rest of our group, started from Tarfala.|
|Posted Oct 26, 2013 9:41 am|
|HenneB||Both summits |
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2012
|Fun climb up the eastern route (down the western) to Sweden's highest point. I was glad to see that northern peak (Nordtoppen (2097m)) was accessible again (it had been closed after the plane crash in between the Nordtoppen and the Sydtoppen (2117 m)). Quite impressive the amount of debris that was strewn over quite a large area. I wanted to reach the northern peak too, because apparently snow on the Sydtoppen is melting fast and that way I do not have to come back in a few years when it is all gone and the Nordtoppen is possibly the new highpoint....|
A beautiful day, no wind, t-shirt on the summit, and a fun ascent over the glacier and then up the via ferrata
|Posted Aug 16, 2012 8:55 am|
|iemmi||East Route |
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2012
|The idea was to go for Nygrens leden, however, there were alot of drifting snow, so went for the Eastern route instead. All the guided groups turned back, so we were the only idiots on top in complete white-out that day.|
|Posted Jun 26, 2012 6:09 pm|
|guhj||Western route - late winter |
Date Climbed: Mar 20, 2010
|2010 was a year with little snow.|
After a week on nordic touring gear circling the area counterclockwise, we entered Ladtjovagge from Singi, and set up our tents in Ladtjovagge below Kitteldalen. Next morning, we left around 0900 on foot (uphill without skins didn't seem inviting, the snow was mostly firm, and higher up there was too much rock poking trhough).
Attempting to find the quickest route from Kitteldalen to the saddle between Tuolpagourni and Vierranvare we turned left quite early, and found ourselves high on a steep snow field on the north slope of Tuolpagourni. Rather scary, but we were able to kick steps and traverse out to bare rocks. Would have been less scary with 'pons and axes, but we didn't have any.
Lunch in Kaffedalen. Sandwiches.
Leaving Kaffedalen, I fumbled and dropped a glove. Thanks to good visibility, I could go down 100 m and get it while the others pushed on.
Summited after 8 hrs, in good conditions and good visibility. Summit shots were snapped, and there was much rejoicing.
Descent on foot via western route.
|Posted Oct 27, 2011 8:44 pm|
|guhj||Eastern route - |
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2009
|My dad, having turned 59 recently, wanted to summit before he got too old and out of shape. So me, my father and my mother did a quick summit trip.|
Walk in from Nikkaluokta, slept at the Fjällstation. Started around 0800, aiming to set up a "base camp" at the plateau before Björling's glacier. We got there at lunch and felt fit, so we continued across the glacier and up the via ferrata. Summited in low visibility. My dad almost quit 50 m below the summit, since "the view's not worth it", but eventually got up. Descent to base camp via eastern route. Back at the tent, my dad is shivering and quite exhausted, but an afternoon of rest sorted it out.
Slept at "basecamp", walked to Tarfala over Kebnetjåkkå.
|Posted Oct 27, 2011 10:54 am|
|guhj||Eastern route - conscription |
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2008
|During my military service, we had about a week of "high mountain training", including summiting Kebnekaise. We went up the eastern route, clipped in with "crabclaws" along the via ferrata, and reached the summit in 100 m visibility, hail and snow.|
Descent via western route.
|Posted Oct 27, 2011 10:47 am|
|guhj||Western route - bad prep |
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2007
|First attempt was preceded by a night of whisky drinking and pushups. We turned back in Kitteldalen due to my partners not having brought their jackets along (shorts and t-shirts is too cold).|
Tried again the next day, and everything went just fine. Decent clear weather, temperature slightly above freezing, some haze.
Descent same route. Don't remember time up and down, but start before 0800 and bring lunch and you'll most likely be fine.
|Posted Oct 27, 2011 10:43 am|
|Kicki||West route |
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2008
|The summit looked like a white shiny meringue!! The weather was amazing, sun and cloudfree. Best weather that season we were told.|
|Posted Oct 9, 2011 4:44 pm|
|JuliusKramer||Climb from Tarfala |
Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2011
|Ascent from Tarfala over "Storglaciären" ("Great glacier"), then crossing "Björlings glaciär" and climbing the Via Ferrata up to the emergency cabin. Followed by a half hour walk to the Southern summit. The weather was a bit cloudy when we reached the summit but cleared after a few minutes. My second time on the summit.|
|Posted Aug 29, 2011 9:40 am|
|Joerg Marretsch||Västra Leden |
Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2011
|After an aborted attempt due to snowfall the day before we have succes on Aug. 13. A perfect day with some clouds. Starting at 06am at our tent spot near Kebnekaise Fjallstation we reach the summit at 12am. Perfect views to the surroundings. My first real mountain north of the arctic circle.|
|Posted Aug 22, 2011 4:52 pm|
|Lolli||It was summer|
|and the sun shone.|
|Posted Dec 17, 2010 10:37 am|
|Jukka Ahonen||Västra Leden / Western Route climbed |
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2010
|Nice climb from the Western side. No crampons required, although we had zero visibility at the peak due to low clouds. We didn't bother with the Northern Summit. The visibility and weather were great just below the summit, and from the summit hut you could see as far as eye can reach.|
|Posted Jul 24, 2010 4:24 am|
|andre hangaard||Western route |
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2010
|Nice climb via the western route. We made a tented camp in the end of the lovely but windy Kitteldalen. The glaciated summitridge offered no problems. No crampons needed, the snow was in rather good condition. Nice weather all day but limited views from the summit. A long hike back to Kebnekasie Fjällstation. Climbed together with my girlfriend Åsa Dahlgren.|
|Posted Jul 19, 2010 3:25 am|
|hernberg||Done it 3 times |
Date Climbed: Jul 27, 1994
|Did Östra once in 94 with my dad, halspasset with an alpine climingcourse in 2003 and Västra comming from storglaciären in 2004|
|Posted Jul 26, 2009 3:38 pm|