Kelso Ridge, First Crux

Kelso Ridge, First Crux

Mark self-belaying the first crux of Kelso Ridge on February 23rd, 2008.
edlins
on Feb 27, 2008 3:53 pm
Image Type(s): Rock Climbing,  Alpine Climbing
Image ID: 384123

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DanielWandsneider

DanielWandsneider - Dec 26, 2008 1:37 am - Hasn't voted

Sweet!

Thats some wicked picture. My roommate and I are thinking about doing this climb in late january. Any tips?

edlins

edlins - Dec 29, 2008 4:46 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Sweet!

Thanks! Get in shape, move quickly, and be ready to bail. I wouldn't climb up from the saddle after about 7am. I estimate it takes around 6-7 hrs from the saddle to the summit if belaying both cruxes. Don't underestimate the time required to approach from I-70. Leading the chimney of the first crux is steep and unprotected. You should be comfortable soloing low 5th class insecure rock in boots with snow. Crampons are not needed, but axe and flotation are. Leave your flotation by the trail below the saddle and retrieve on the way down. Conditions are everything..

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