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Ken Black Memorial Dome, 5.5-5.12b
Mountain/Rock

Ken Black Memorial Dome, 5.5-5.12b

 
Ken Black Memorial Dome, 5.5-5.12b

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 34.02811°N / 116.17791°W

Object Title: Ken Black Memorial Dome, 5.5-5.12b

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Feb 2, 2012 / Jan 27, 2013

Object ID: 774636

Hits: 628 

Page Score: 81.18%  - 13 Votes 

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Overview/Approach

 
Chicken Mechanics, 5.9
Chicken Mechanics, 5.9

Ken Black Memorial Dome was named after Kenny Black (aka psycho Kenny), a climber who was killed in an accident in the Garden of Gods, Colorado. Ken Black was a Jtree mainstay from the ‘80’s.
 
Descent
 
 
My Fan Club...
 

This feature is really not shaped much like a dome but does have a small flat summit that offers up the best views of the private ranch across the park road. Ken Black Dome features a northeast side (am sun) and west side (pm sun). What attracted me to the dome was a double star crack route in Miramontes book, Chicken Mechanics (5.9), which I used as an early morning warm up for the longer routes located down Lost Horse Road. A starred 5.8 to the left of Chicken Mechanics did not look very inviting. It did not appear sustained nor interesting in any way and I chose to ignore it. Another route of special note on this sunny side is Blackjack (5.11a), a mixed route that Miramontes gives a full page photo of on page 91. There does not seem to be much else going on regarding the Ken Black Memorial Dome.

Turn south down the Lost Horse Road and immediately park at the paved trail head on the left. For the northeast routes, follow a trail east around the feature. Chicken Mechanics and Blackjack hosted directional signs in 2012.

Route Description(s)

Routes Listed Right to Left as you Face the NE Wall

  • Powdered Toast Man- 5.10b/

  • Fryer Flyers- 5.5/

  • Poultry Pilots- 5.7/

  • Chicken Mechanics- 5.9/**
  • I am not a huge fan. Chicken Mechanics is mostly a one move wonder to pull the low to the ground roof. From there to the top it was much easier for the grade. It is located right on the road as well. I did not deem it worthy of two stars in comparison to other double stared 5.9 Jtree routes in Miramontes book. Walk off climbers right. Dow

  • My Friends Treat Me Like a Mushroom- 5.8/*

  • Pacific Ave Doom- 5.7/*

  • Pacific Heights- 5.8/

  • Holiday in the Sun- 5.10aR/*

  • Blackjack- 5.11a/**

  • Black Magic- 5.10b/

  • Blackout- 5.11a/

  • Blackheart- 5.10d/

  • Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the West Wall

  • White Punks on Dope- 5.10a/*

  • Baby Huey Smokes an Anti-Pipeload- 5.11dR/**

  • Anti-Gravity Boots- 5.11cR/**

  • Gomma Cocida- 5.10dR/**

  • Potato Masher- 5.12bR/*

  • The Nose in a Day- 5.9/

  • Salathe’ Free- 5.6/
  • External Links

  • Joshua Tree National Park Including Map.
  • Campsites
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  • Scarpa, has surpassed La Sportiva in terms of quality, function, value and actually stand by their warranties
  • Osprey Backpacks, Not a Second Choice
  • Great Outdoors Depot
  • Images

    Chicken Mechanics, 5.9My Fan Club...DescentChicken Mechanics, 5.9