Ken Black Memorial Dome was named after Kenny Black (aka psycho Kenny), a climber who was killed in an accident in the Garden of Gods, Colorado. Ken Black was a Jtree mainstay from the ‘80’s.
This feature is really not shaped much like a dome but does have a small flat summit that offers up the best views of the private ranch across the park road. Ken Black Dome features a northeast side (am sun) and west side (pm sun). What attracted me to the dome was a double star crack route in Miramontes book, Chicken Mechanics (5.9), which I used as an early morning warm up for the longer routes located down Lost Horse Road. A starred 5.8 to the left of Chicken Mechanics did not look very inviting. It did not appear sustained nor interesting in any way and I chose to ignore it. Another route of special note on this sunny side is Blackjack (5.11a), a mixed route that Miramontes gives a full page photo of on page 91. There does not seem to be much else going on regarding the Ken Black Memorial Dome.
Turn south down the Lost Horse Road and immediately park at the paved trail head on the left. For the northeast routes, follow a trail east around the feature. Chicken Mechanics and Blackjack hosted directional signs in 2012.
Routes Listed Right to Left as you Face the NE Wall
Powdered Toast Man- 5.10b/
Fryer Flyers- 5.5/
Poultry Pilots- 5.7/
Chicken Mechanics- 5.9/**
I am not a huge fan. Chicken Mechanics is mostly a one move wonder to pull the low to the ground roof. From there to the top it was much easier for the grade. It is located right on the road as well. I did not deem it worthy of two stars in comparison to other double stared 5.9 Jtree routes in Miramontes book. Walk off climbers right. Dow
My Friends Treat Me Like a Mushroom- 5.8/*
Pacific Ave Doom- 5.7/*
Pacific Heights- 5.8/
Holiday in the Sun- 5.10aR/*
Black Magic- 5.10b/
Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the West Wall
""You cannot stay on the summit forever; you have to come down again. So why bother in the first place? Just this: What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above. One climbs, one sees. One descends, one sees no longer, but one has seen. There is an art of conducting oneself in the lower regions by the memory of what one saw higher up. When one can no longer see, one can at least still know.""