Ken Black Memorial Dome, 5.5-5.12b

Overview/Approach

  Ken Black Memorial Dome was named after Kenny Black (aka psycho Kenny), a climber who was killed in an accident in the Garden of Gods, Colorado. Ken Black was a Jtree mainstay from the ‘80’s.    This feature is really not shaped much like a dome but does have a small flat summit that offers up the best views of the private ranch across the park road. Ken Black Dome features a northeast side (am sun) and west side (pm sun). What attracted me to the dome was a double star crack route in Miramontes book, Chicken Mechanics (5.9), which I used as an early morning warm up for the longer routes located down Lost Horse Road. A starred 5.8 to the left of Chicken Mechanics did not look very inviting. It did not appear sustained nor interesting in any way and I chose to ignore it. Another route of special note on this sunny side is Blackjack (5.11a), a mixed route that Miramontes gives a full page photo of on page 91. There does not seem to be much else going on regarding the Ken Black Memorial Dome. Turn south down the Lost Horse Road and immediately park at the paved trail head on the left. For the northeast routes, follow a trail east around the feature. Chicken Mechanics and Blackjack hosted directional signs in 2012.

Route Description(s)

Routes Listed Right to Left as you Face the NE Wall

Powdered Toast Man- 5.10b/

Fryer Flyers- 30’-5.5/ Secure solo on a well varnished crack on the right side of a short tower located at the right end of the NE face.  Scramble down climbers right.  Dow

Poultry Pilots- 35’-5.7/ Secure solo on a soft graded crack for the grade at Jtree, on the left side of the same tower that Fryer is on.  If there is a crux, it would be near the top where it is wider, but still quite positive for the grade.  Same descent as Fryer, go through the notch and down the right side of the attached tower.  Dow

Chicken Mechanics- 5.9/** A technical 5.9 even by Jtree standards.  Off the deck requires a strict sequence with delicate pro (brassie or small not).  At the roof is a physical layback up and over, committing for the grade.  After that it is crusier, but still fun, to an obvious gear belay in a medium sized crack.  Finish on a short 3 bolt route named Pacific Ave. Dorm to the top of the formation. Dow

My Friends Treat Me Like a Mushroom- 5.8/* Miramontes guide gives this route a star but it does not deserve it.  Contrived short route that meanders up the left side of the formation after you ascend half way up a gully.  Just to the left of the popular Chicken Mechanics.  Once on the short NE facing wall, you traverse right to left through two bolts. Dow

Pacific Ave Doom- 5.7/*  An uneventful three bolt route that leads to the top of the formation from the top of Chicken Mechanics.  You can easily scramble back down this formation to the base to the east, skiers right. Dow

Pacific Heights- 5.8/

Holiday in the Sun- 5.10aR/*

Blackjack- 5.11a/**

Black Magic- 5.10b/

Blackout- 5.11a/

Blackheart- 5.10d/

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the West Wall

White Punks on Dope- 40’-5.10a*/ Start up a crack that is now (2019) bolted but not referenced as a route in Miramontes local guide, 3rd edition.  You do not need to clip the first bolt if you do not want, as it protects well in the right crack.  Traverse left fairly immediate into the crack on the left side.  The crux is pulling up and out of that crack on slopers and just for the initial move.  Soft for the grade.  Gear belay/top rope on top.  You cannot safety reach the chains atop Anti-Gravity without effort.  Walk off climbers left.  Single to #1.  Dow

Baby Huey Smokes an Anti-Pipeload- 50’-5.11dR**/ Slightly overhanging steep and intricate face climbing.  Fully bolted as of 2019 vs the R rating in the guide.  The upper half is the business.  Can share a fixed rap atop the face with Anti-Gravity or finish on top and do a gear belay/top rope.  Walk off climber’s left.  Dow

Anti-Gravity Boots- 5.11cR/**

Gomma Cocida- 5.10dR/**

Potato Masher- 5.12bR/*

The Nose in a Day- 55’-5.9/ A worthy route despite not receiving a recommendation in the local guide.  A wide climb with a true knee jam at the grade through the first half of the route.  The second half is below grade.  Medium gear belay at top.  Single to #4.  Dow

Salathe’ Free- 50’-5.6/ Secure solo on varnished rock.  Can down climb or walk off the backside and back around the right end in short order.  Dow

Images

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