Koh-e-Brobar (Equality Peak)

Overview

The Koh-e-Brobar or Equality peak is located north of the Shimshal valley in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. According to most maps the peak is 5907 m high. This is what our GPS also showed when we attempted the summit in July, 2019. Some websites claim that the peak is 6007 m high but I believe the most accurate information is for 5907 m. The peak was first climbed in 2011 by a Pakistan youth expedition involving Samina Baig. There is no information on how may ascents have followed.

Getting There

Start from Gilgit - a major city located in Gilgit Baltistan. There is also an airport in the city with daily flights from Islamabad. However, these flights are unreliable due weather conditions in the mountain regions. Gilgit is ~13 hours drive from Islamabad via the Karakorum Highway. After Gilgit follow ther way on the KKH to Passu. From Passu take another road to the vilalge of Shimshal. Here you need a Jeep because the road, although absolutely stunning, is impossible to drive without the proper vehicle.

Shimshal is located at 3100 meters. From there you start your trek as follows:

1. Day 1 to the Zartgurben area at ~4000 m.
2. Day 2 to the Shipodeen area at ~4200 m. (The Shipodeen area can be reached also in day 1).
3. Day 3 over Boisom pass (4900 m according to our measurements and 5000 m according to other sources) and a little descend down to ~4700 m.

At 4700 m. there is some nice grassland with fresh water to make a camp. We have marked the encampment with a small campfire, a really basic shelter without roof and a place for tent. The path to the camp from the boissom pass follows stone piramids which may be hard to spot in the rocky terraing. In general, you should go down north in the valley until you are at the vicinity of the peak. The peak itself is visible from the Boisom pass.

Route

From the basecamp you should start following a river which leads east to the peak. In ~1.5 hours or less depending on the conditions you should reach a glacier. The glacier, as any other glacier, is not entirely safe and it is best to avoid it. The best route is perhaps on the left of the river via a rocky slope. It may be hard to walk over it but I think it is the safer route.

Continuing east you will reach a slope of ~40 degrees. You need to climb it to reach the ridge of the peak. Beware of avalanche danger. You should reach the ridge in 2-3 hours or maybe less depending on the conditions.

From the ridge continue climbing north towards the summit. Don't be fooled. It is not as close as it looks and you are not able to see the actual peak from the ridge so be patient. 2-3 more hours and you should be at the summit. The only technical part is at the end where you may need to break some snow to climd the summite.

Beware of cornices over the ridge.

Red Tape

The peak si located close to the China border so you need a Non-objection certificate (NOC). I have no idea how to get it since our guide got it for us. There was some police after Passu but I don't think anybody requested the certificate. Anyway, it is better to have it.

When to Climb

May to October. May and June you can ski down from the peak.

Camping

Along the way to the peak there are nice places for camping with shelters. We established base camp 2.5 hours walk north from hte Boisom pass at a small grassland. You may see the camp (small camfire, place for tent, a stone piramid and a small shelter for donkeys).

You can also establish a high camp on the way to the summite before you start climbing the slope which leads to the summit ridge.

External Links

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