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Lenticular Dome, 5.7-5.10a
Mountain/Rock

Lenticular Dome, 5.7-5.10a

 
Lenticular Dome, 5.7-5.10a

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 34.04045°N / 116.14778°W

Object Title: Lenticular Dome, 5.7-5.10a

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Fall, Winter

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Dec 29, 2011 / Feb 28, 2013

Object ID: 768139

Hits: 569 

Page Score: 79.78%  - 11 Votes 

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Overview/Approach

 
Mental Physics, 5.7
•Mental Physics- 2 Pitches- 5.7

During a cold mid-week day in December, we had South Wonderland Valley in Joshua Tree National Park all to ourselves. We truly never heard nor laid eyes on another human all day. One of the main objectives on a cold day of course was to chase the sun. This classic route fest led us in a circle from Foolproof Tower (High Strung) to Lenticular Dome (Mental Physics) to Room to Shroom. Mental Physics is a three star classic in Miramontes relatively new guide book (2011). The south facing nature of Lenticular Dome is what drew us this far north before turning back for Room to Shroom.
 
Mental Physics, 5.7
Dow Williams at the Base
 
Wonderland South
 

Mental Physics makes Miramontes “12 terrific trad moderates” list and deserves it. I consider this a classic pitch to teach trad-leading on. Mental Physics offers a tall crack (100’) in excellent rock that allows you to place gear at will. You can continue to the top of Lenticular Dome via a second shorter pitch with one bolt protecting easy slab. But if one was really into slab, it would be best to rap Mental Physics and move to the left to climb Dazed and Confused (5.9), a two star bolted slab route.

I planned a cirque of classic climbs that had us starting on Foolproof Tower. From the Barker Dam parking areas (I used the dirt one, further NE), follow a trail and then continue up washes northwest around the northeast side of the Astrodomes. Lenticular Dome comes immediately into view (photo) once you pass these massive landmarks on your left, approximately 1.3 miles in from the dirt parking area. Stay in the wash until you reach the left end and then cut back to the base of the wall. Mental Physics is an obvious singular crack that runs up the right side of the south face, just right of a roof. Hand Wobler Delight is a route that follows a hand crack through the roof.

Route Description(s)

Routes Listed Left to Right; West to East

South Wall

  • Unconscious Obscenity- Single Pitch- 5.8/*
  • Bolted Slab

  • Hand Wobler Delight- Single Pitch- 5.9/

  • Booglesby- Single Pitch- 5.10a/*

  • Dazed and Confused- 2 Pitches- 5.9/**
  • Bolted Slab

  • Mental Physics- 2 Pitches- 5.7/***
  • Perfect tall crack on perfect rock. Place gear at will. Second slab pitch does not look worth doing unless you want the walk-off exercise. If looking for slab, move left to Dazed and Confused. Dow

    External Links

  • Joshua Tree National Park Including Map.
  • Campsites

    Images

    Lenticular Dome from North AstrodomeJoshua TreeMental Physics, 5.7Mental Physics, 5.7Wonderland SouthMental Physics, 5.7Joshua Tree
    Kelso Depot