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Little Bear Peak Climber's Log

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OnagerLittle Bear Peak!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 24, 2017


Sent the West Ridge and SE face of 14,037 ft. Little Bear Peak, my 44th 14er! I’ve been dreading about having to climb this technical route for years based on so many stories of close calls, and with the knowledge that a handful of experienced climbers have perished on this peak.
The approach hike to Lake Como was a miserable slog as usual, but the views at sunset were spectacular. The perfect end to a great Thanksgiving Day. I set up camp in a small hut with a wood burning stove. It was definitely a luxury having that hut available. There was not another soul in the basin until about 7pm when another solo climber dropped by the hut. We decided to climb the peak together on Friday. We settled in for a cold night at 12K. Morning arrived too soon and we started for our first obstacle at 7am, a 600 ft. snowy gully leading up to the west ridge. We made it to the top in less than an hour and traversed across talus and ledges until we arrived at the crux, a class 3/4 gully known as the “Hourglass”. The 700+ ft gully is a bowling alley for microwave and basketball sized rocks nesting precariously above, just waiting to be triggered and funneled towards climbers down low. This was absolutely a dangerous place and as soon as you start climbing, there is little to no room for error. Climbers left was dry while the right side had ice and snow. We opted to climb the former, which ended up in slight 5th class terrain and surprisingly made great time, reaching the summit around 1030 am. We took some celebratory photos and breathed a breath of fresh air. The responsibility of not sending rocks down the hourglass is high on the way down, but we were fortunate to be the only 2 climbers all day. We made use of two fixed ropes on the way down, not relying on them fully but enough to use as a backup in a bad fall. We made it back to camp at 2 pm, relaxed the rest of the day at the hut and descended back to our cars on Saturday. This climb was an epic I won’t soon forget.
Posted Nov 25, 2017 7:55 pm

seth@LOKI20 years later  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2017


In Seprtember 1997 we were trained up, camped above Como Lake ready to climb Little Bear and traverse until swirling storm clouds unleashed. This was steepbut seemed safer with solid snow, touch of ice. Better crampons made it better than my brother who sketched a bit using Katoola crampons.
Posted Jul 21, 2017 11:40 am

skorpeoHourglass did not disapoint  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2013


It was no joke. But I did not have any problems.
Posted Dec 13, 2016 11:43 pm

utclimberLittle Bear  Sucess!
Fun hike and challenging
Posted Oct 16, 2016 5:33 pm

xDoogiexLittle Bear solo   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 21, 2015


Fun solo climb. My first time back packing in and camping before a climb. I haven't been in good shape this year and was slow so I'll do the great traverse next time. When I got to the rappel station I went scrambled to far over west and went up and did at least one class 5 move on my traverse back east to the summit
Posted Sep 22, 2015 1:07 pm

SenadRRe: West Ridge up, Hourglass down


I'm glad you survived Little B***! Best way to climb this mountain is in the spring with snow in couloir.
Posted Sep 8, 2015 10:15 am

Sarah SimonWest Ridge up, Hourglass down  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2015

Sarah Simon

I now think of this mountain as Little Beast. What a peak! We went up the West Ridge. This route is technically not challenging (low-5th at most) but the scrambling / climbing is sustained and the exposure dramatic in many, many places. There is poor gear placement for the leader, though good alpine/terrain belay placements for the second (THANK YOU Little Bear!) Enjoyed insanely beautiful weather on this early September day. Rap / downclimbed the Hour Glass - what a piece of shit route that is. Water-polished, smooth rock and loose rock missiles - just vile.
Posted Sep 7, 2015 4:22 pm

blueshadeTraverse + Ellingwood  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2015


First 14ers on the year. Little Bear via the Hourglass, the Traverse, then over to Ellingwood and down the ridge- all around the cirque! The Traverse is not nearly as bad as it's made out to be.
Posted Jul 30, 2015 1:34 am

SenadRFun climb!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2015


Challenging climb in somewhat good conditions, hourglass was in good shape. Good climb.
Posted Jun 9, 2015 4:19 pm

FensterschlechterLittle Bear - Blanca - Ellingwood Hat Trick!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2011


Perfect weather - started at 6 am from camp above Lake Como. LB by 8 am, Blanca at 10:30 am, and Ellingwood at noon. A stellar day!
Posted Aug 16, 2014 4:21 pm

MadGrad96Little Bear  Sucess!


Standard route
Posted Nov 1, 2013 8:15 am

astroclimberThe Never Ending Southwest Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2013


Views are great but it seems to never end. With Jeremiah Meizis.
Posted Sep 8, 2013 8:59 pm

Ken DammenStandard route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2013

Ken Dammen

Climbed the standard West Ridge route and up the "Hourglass". This was #53 of Colorado #58 14ers. Weather was good and there were only 3 others on the route. I did have one "missile" rock come down near me, but thankfully it avoided me. An orange static canyoneering rope was fixed in place and was in excellent shape. I used a harness and climbing shoes and helmet. Overkill I realize, but it did make me feel a little safer. Fun climb, but it would be very dangerous with a lot of people on route or in poor weather.
Posted Aug 17, 2013 12:21 am

SherpaSaraSolo Little Bear  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2013


Had the whole mountain to myself on a Saturday...what a miracle!
Posted Jun 29, 2013 11:40 pm

FletchCinco de Mayo  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 5, 2013


Felt a little guilty stealing a bootpack, but then again, I didn't feel that bad...
Posted May 6, 2013 12:57 pm

I like it on topLittle Bear  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 15, 2013

I like it on top

Some post holing, but overall a great climb and fun day. Wish the cloud ceiling would have risen for a better view but not complaining.
Posted Apr 18, 2013 8:25 am

skyward22hourglass  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 3, 2010


Fun climb! Got into some gravely mixed scree-ice in the hourglass.
Posted Jan 15, 2013 3:06 am

Matt LemkeSW Ridge in Winter  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 29, 2012

Matt Lemke

What a great route! The Mamma Bear traverse was incredible! Not too much snow on the route and we had a calm sunny day. I had just come from Seattle at sea level and had no altitude acclimatization so it was somewhat painful but I pushed through.
Posted Dec 30, 2012 1:48 pm

triyodaThe Glass  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2012


Had the mountain to myself. As careful as I was, still sent a few rocks down (no one below). Great peak, I would never climb this with anyone above me.
Posted Dec 19, 2012 1:33 am

rasgoatNice!  Sucess!


Climbed the Northwest Face and it was fun! Nice summit. Bailed on the traverse due to time and storms rolling in early on the prior days. The descent of the wet hourglass is intimidating!
Posted Nov 24, 2012 2:56 pm

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