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Little Rock Candy Mountain, 5.7-5.12a
Mountain/Rock

Little Rock Candy Mountain, 5.7-5.12a

 
Little Rock Candy Mountain, 5.7-5.12a

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 34.02515°N / 116.14978°W

Object Title: Little Rock Candy Mountain, 5.7-5.12a

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Apr 2, 2012 / Feb 28, 2013

Object ID: 783938

Hits: 640 

Page Score: 78.27%  - 9 Votes 

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Overview/Approach

 
Joshua Tree
 

Little Rock Candy Mountain has two distinct climbing faces. An evening sun exposed wall, the southwest side; and a morning sun exposed wall, the northeast side. A good moderate route on the northeast side is M&M’s Plain (5.9) (John Lakey-1978). Although a bit soft for the grade by Joshua Tree standards, M&M’s Plain offers up a fun hands/finger crack. Every route on these two faces gets at least one star in Miramontes’ guide book. The bolt anchor atop M&M’s Plain can get you down from any route you climb. This entire area is known as the Candy Bar and encompasses several significant formations. The Snickers and Little Hunk involve much larger walls than Little Rock Candy Mountain which sticks out on the southeast edge of Snickers.
 
Little Rock Candy Mountain
 

Park at the paved parking area at the Echo Rock trail head. Head north on a well marked trail circumventing Pope’s Crack to the right. Eff Eight is on a singular mound of granite straight north. Turn right before you reach the Mounds and follow a trail east turning north following the rock. Then cut back west up to the base of the northeast wall (photo). 15-20 minutes from parking.

Route Description(s)

 
Joshua Tree
 
 
Joshua Tree
 

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the NE Wall

  • M&M’s Peanut- 5.10a/

  • M&M’s Plain- 5.9/*
  • A bit soft for a Jtree 5.9, but fun and worthy route. Dow

  • Little Rock Candy Crack- 5.7/*

  • McStumpy Sandwich- 5.9/*

  • Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the SW Wall

  • Barely Legal- 5.12a/**

  • Sugar Daddy- 5.9/*

  • Nestle’s Crunch- 5.10c/*

  • Lips Like Sugar- 5.10b/*

  • Chick Flakey- 5.11b/*
  • External Links

  • Joshua Tree National Park Including Map.
  • Campsites

    Images

    Little Rock Candy MountainJoshua TreeJoshua TreeJoshua TreeJoshua TreeLittle Rock Candy Mountain