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Lizard Head Climber's Log

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theREALCarpeDMStandard SW chimney  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2016


Glad this choss pile is in the books. Amy led very well. I made it in my typical ugly fashion.
Posted Aug 22, 2016 11:42 am

PaulKConquered Lizard Head  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2016
Submitted LH one day after doing Dallas Peak. Exhausting sequence, but worth it! Great weather, but start of climb = cold in the shade, even in July. Two lengthy wonderful sustained 5.8 or so pitches. Interesting loose scramble in between.
Posted Jul 10, 2016 1:44 pm

Alex WoodchossAradBRO  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2012

Alex Wood

First shot- We got to the Cross MTN TH September 1st and woke up at 5am only to see clouds everywhere and two other groups going up..so we bailed and did something else that day.
Second shot- We started hiking at 4:30am on September 3rd with clouds in the sky but no other people. We arrive at the base of the South Chimney Route (way easy to find) at sunrise. We broke the first pitch up into two pitches. The chimney was burly and the rock was so cold. We did the 3rd class traverse pitch rope up and place pro (so sketchy with loose rock). We had some issues figuring out where the summit pitch started, but just look for the piton. The bulge was interesting and wet and cold, but after that the climbing was easy. Missed the anchors on the top so I made a belay close to the summit. Amazing summit! Worth the choss and effort. The rappels down were trivial. I would not even attempt this hunk of rock if someone else was on the route.
Posted Sep 4, 2012 12:52 pm

Digglerfinally!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2012


This formation & climb had been on my mind for years. Opportunity finally came up to give it a go. Left TH @ 10.23 after a late night the night before. Ominous-looking clouds overhead gave us pause, & it took them subsiding before we finally committed to the climb. Rock not as bad as some areas, though (Fisher Towers come to mind), & crux sections solid enough with good pro' (bring a #4 Camalot for the start of P3). Summit fits the formation- airy, loose, & surreal. Views phenomenal (though fire-caused smokey skies marred it somewhat). Descent quite possibly harder than the climb- terribly thought-out rap' anchors meant one of the parties shortly before us ended up leaving their rope (virtually impossible to pull through rings)- I was going to attempt to return the rope, but when we had 2 unsuccessful attempts at rope retrieval (& associated prusiks back up to the anchor- that SUCKED), we returned the other rope to its former, fixed, position, I rap'ed off of it, & just left it. If a future party familiar with rap' anchor set-up could extend the anchor with additional chains/quick-links, as well as maybe a dedicated rap' ring, that would be a HUGE community service! Great day with a great partner.
Posted Jun 28, 2012 6:26 pm

noahs213Winter Ascent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 30, 2011


2 or 3rd winter ascent. . . who knows. amazing
Posted Jan 1, 2012 11:05 pm

Liba Kopeckovanice summit, bad rock  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2010

Liba Kopeckova

Beautiful day, amazing rock tower from the distance, especially the first pitch was very loose, higher up the rock got better. Felt strange to lead it and not to trust any holds... summit has amazing views, a really old sign in log.
Posted Sep 27, 2010 12:20 am

SarahThompsonHoneymoon Kickoff  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2009


7/12/09 - I climbed Lizard Head the morning after my wedding in Yankee Boy Basin, a kickoff to a great honeymoon! Our buddy who led it for us snuck a bottle of champagne up in his pack! What an awesome climb!

9/16/17 - Led for Kevin. Cold, little bit of snow and ice. Bad case of the screaming barfies on the first pitch!
Posted Jul 21, 2009 1:04 am

Nice Axe!A beauty! Southwest Chimney  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2008

Nice Axe!

A link to our TR.
Posted Sep 17, 2008 10:35 pm

scotthsusweeeet! SW chimney standard route (5.8)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2008


It was a cold morning with the first pitch in the shade. There's definitely loose rock but we felt it was manageable as long as you're careful. We got ice and snow at the crux bulge on the final pitch, gave it a distinct alpine flavor. Very rewarding summit with fantastic views and great weather!
Posted Sep 17, 2008 2:31 pm

utclimberSoutheast Chimney  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2003
One of Colorado's classic summits. Luckily, the steepest pitches are also the best rock quality. The middle 3rd/4th class pitch is horribly loose, so beware of other parties.

I wrote up a description on Mountain Project with pitch by pitch beta. Route Description
Posted Jan 8, 2008 12:47 pm

gremlinnormal route  Sucess!


not horrendously loose anymore, did with a group of 5 and even picked up a guy up there who was solo to make a big old group of 6
Posted Oct 24, 2007 1:49 am

FlexI like the loose ones!  Sucess!


The rock was some of the worst I've been on, and I like loose adventure routes. Still worth it though, but I won't go back!
Posted Dec 19, 2006 8:18 pm

atg200Southeast Chimney  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2003
It is loose - to say otherwise is dishonest. It isn't that bad though - some care and good route finding will get you through provided that 5.8 isn't your limit.
Posted Mar 25, 2006 6:30 am

Mountain JimRoute Climbed: Standard Route Date Climbed: Sept. 7, 1988  Sucess!

Mountain Jim

Don't forget your climbing helmet. Watch out for natural rock fall at the base of the rock in the early morning when the sun begins to heat the rock.
Posted Feb 7, 2006 11:54 am

iceisniceRoute Climbed: Southeast Chimney Date Climbed: Oct 15, "05  Sucess!


Amazing climb. Don't pay attention to those who say its loose....its alpine after all! My partner got sick on the way up so I ended up doing a roped solo climb of the peak. Highly recommended.
Posted Oct 15, 2005 4:57 pm

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