The southern orientation of Lost Horse Wall along with its height (300’+) makes it a must visit during cold winter days. Lost Horse Wall offers several of the better classic moderate winter climbs at Jtree: Dappled Mare (5.8) and Bird on a Wire (5.10a). Dappled Mare was established in 1973 and Bird on a Wire in 1977. Both routes run up the same end of the wall (east) for approximately three pitches and are worth doing back to back during a short winter day. Lost Horse Wall is mostly south facing. Bird on a Wire is included in Miramontes “must-do 5.10 cracks” list and Dappled Mare makes his “12 terrific trad moderates” list. Other notable climbs on the wall include The Swift (5.7) and Lost and Found (5.11b).
Lost Horse road is northwest of the Hidden Valley campground. Drive due south on Lost Horse road (dirt). Pull out left at the #5 turnout (about ½ mile). Follow the trail east in the wash for a short distance before you are below the main Lost Horse wall. Scramble up and left out of the wash to the east end for the two classic routes mentioned above. A round patch of varnish easily identifies the start of the second pitch for Bird on a Wire and thus makes for a great point of reference for the rest of the routes.
Routes Listed Left to Right; West to East