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Lost Horse Wall, 5.7-5.11b
Mountain/Rock

Lost Horse Wall, 5.7-5.11b

 
Lost Horse Wall, 5.7-5.11b

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 34.02147°N / 116.17803°W

Object Title: Lost Horse Wall, 5.7-5.11b

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Fall, Winter

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Dec 19, 2011 / Feb 28, 2013

Object ID: 766451

Hits: 1082 

Page Score: 78.27%  - 9 Votes 

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Overview/Approach

 
Lost Horse Wall
Bird on a Wire, Dappled Mare

The southern orientation of Lost Horse Wall along with its height (300’+) makes it a must visit during cold winter days. Lost Horse Wall offers several of the better classic moderate winter climbs at Jtree: Dappled Mare (5.8) and Bird on a Wire (5.10a). Dappled Mare was established in 1973 and Bird on a Wire in 1977. Both routes run up the same end of the wall (east) for approximately three pitches and are worth doing back to back during a short winter day. Lost Horse Wall is mostly south facing. Bird on a Wire is included in Miramontes “must-do 5.10 cracks” list and Dappled Mare makes his “12 terrific trad moderates” list. Other notable climbs on the wall include The Swift (5.7) and Lost and Found (5.11b).
 
Dappled Mare, 5.8
Dappled Mare, 5.8

Lost Horse road is northwest of the Hidden Valley campground. Drive due south on Lost Horse road (dirt). Pull out left at the #5 turnout (about ½ mile). Follow the trail east in the wash for a short distance before you are below the main Lost Horse wall. Scramble up and left out of the wash to the east end for the two classic routes mentioned above. A round patch of varnish easily identifies the start of the second pitch for Bird on a Wire and thus makes for a great point of reference for the rest of the routes.

Route Description(s)

 
Bird on a Wire, 5.10a
 
 
Dappled Mare, 5.8
 
 
Bird on a Wire, 5.10a
 

Routes Listed Left to Right; West to East

Main Wall

  • The Swift- 3 Pitches- 5.7/**

  • Bird on a Wire- 3 Pitches- 5.10a/***
  • Bird on a Wire starts left of Dappled Mare and is easy to identify as it climbs directly through a distinct round patch of varnish on the lower wall. The first pitch follows twin finger cracks that merge into one at a fixed rappel in approximately 80’. I continued the first pitch up to where Bird on a Wire intersects Dappled Mare (at the top of the left facing angled dihedral) and built a gear station there. The last pitch goes straight up from there on much easier ground until you come to a left and right crack for the finish. I have climbed both and prefer the steeper right hand crack option which is more in line for the grade of the climb. There is a decent feature at the top of the right crack to sling. If you chose the left, there is a medium crack to build a station in. Dow

  • Hairline Fracture- Single Pitch- 5.10a/*
  • Variation start to Dappled Mare.

  • City Slickers- Single Pitch- 5.11b/*
  • Variation start to Dappled Mare.

  • Dappled Mare- 3 Pitches- 5.8/***
  • A fun route to combine with Bird on a Wire for laps up the wall. First pitch (short solo) is 5th class if even. Second and third pitches offer enjoyable moderate climbing. Best way to finish that long third pitch is on Bird on a Wire, taking the right option at the very top which makes for another decent pitch. Dow

  • Roan Way- Single Pitch- 5.9/*
  • Direct finish to Dappled Mare.

  • Edgar Rice Burros- 3 Pitches- 5.10c/

  • Headbanger’s Ball- 2 Pitches- 5.11c/*

  • Mare’s Tail- 3 Pitches- 5.9/*

  • Lost and Found- 3 Pitches- 5.11b/*
  • External Links

  • Joshua Tree National Park Including Map.
  • Campsites

    Images