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Lurking Fear - El Cap
Trip Report

Lurking Fear - El Cap


Page Type: Trip Report

Location: California, United States, North America

Object Title: Lurking Fear - El Cap

Date Climbed/Hiked: Jul 8, 2012

Activities: Big Wall

Season: Summer


Page By: tvashtarkatena

Created/Edited: Feb 18, 2014 / Feb 18, 2014

Object ID: 887290

Hits: 1440 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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Mike Taking Suggestions on Lead
Mike Taking Suggestions on Lead
Lurking Fear - El Cap

Trip: Yosemite's El Cap - Lurking Fear

Date: 7/8/2012

Trip Report:

The Architect contemplates the task ahead in the Merced River by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

El Cap, Lurking Fear, C2 5.7 19p. 3 camps on the wall. by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Lurching Steers Beta (by Ivan) by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

We arrived at the base to find that a bear had torn Ivan's gear and supplies a new, slobbery asshole. All that was left were a few unchewed cigarettes, some unpunctured water bottles, and 3 small cans, well coated in saliva (we hope) and dirt. Vienna Sausage, anyone? 

Not to worry: we send Ivan down to procure more supplies and toss our garbage. Unfortunately, he tossed three days worth of my food (stowed in a garbage bag) in the dumpster as well.

Large mammals can be a problem in Yosemite.

From the base. Our fixed lines appear at left. by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Plumage. This photo, taken after the cl...is on the left. by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Our first aborted attempt at hauling the equivalent of a battleship up Lurking Fear's 2,200 vertical feet result in a general order to lighten said ship and shorten our time on the wall from 5 to 3 days. After a redistribution of food wealth I wound up with Ivan's Cambells Chicken and Dumpling Soup, which is basically snot in horse cum as near as I can tell, as well as several squshels of gummy worms and a North Sea full of Swedish Fish. The Beanie Weenies were self inflicted. 

Once we were off the ground, things went relatively smoothly, with only one sleeping bag destroyed and the usual array of trinkets dropped (and some recovered later) en route. All poos were on time and on target, we didn't run out of water (a gallon a day per), and nobody took any giant rides earthward. 

Being the newest big waller, I was relegated to leading some C1 and low 5th, removing stuck pro, pig wrangling, and fully exploring the operation of our only belay chair. My trip up the wall was therefore slow, scenic, comfortable, and, with the exception of some strenuous sphincter isometrics while trying not to stare down 50 feet of offwidth runnout, a pleasant way to spend a few long summer days.

A 2:30 am start under moonlight enabled us to arrive at Camp 1 just before dark, thanks to Mike's affinity for combining swinging and climbing. Mike and I played house on our two man ledge while Ivan gently attempted to cajole his Pringling portaledge 80' above. Eventually, the dynamic trio: Ivan, his portaledge, and his sleeping bag, produced a white mushroom cloud of down fail, punctuated by a verbal explosion that cut through the darkness like the shriek of a Valkyrie betrayed. 

I still hear echoes of that mournful cry every time I see a can of Beanie Weenies. 

Mike jugging P4 by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Pat leading P5 (by Ivan) by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Mike leading the P7 traverse by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Double butt shot, P8. 50' of runnout on...hough (by Ivan) by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Camp1 for 2, below P10. You really can ...r 80' above us. by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Pacific Tree Frog (Pseudacris regilla) a...rous occasions. by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Pat ascending back to the P10 anchor from Camp 1 (by Ivan) by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Mike responds to a suggestion while on lead by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Big Man, Small Umbrella. Temperatures w...idday (by Mike) by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Ivan practicing his 'long haul' technique - to the ire of his pig wrangler below by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Mike on the mantle at the start of P14 by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Camp 2, P14. I used the belay chair at left to extend my sleeping platform for my feet by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

A belay chair is a must on a route like Lurking Fear (by Mike) by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

P 15 by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

I heart hauling. P 17 (by Ivan) by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Thanksgiving Ledge (Camp 3, P17) by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Thanksgiving Cave by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Topping out on P 19 by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Victory Dancers by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Mike rap scouting. Ivan and I followed,... down the face. by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

The Bull Whip Effect: the ends of ropes...und and explode by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Ivan and his pig fight the urge to swing by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Typical clusterFk by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

3 More Raps by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Last rap by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Schist, shit, and grit by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

We happy few by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

The Big Man Upper Pining it wit J Roc by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

A nice, cool cave on a 90 degree day by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Fleetwood Mac's Latest Album Cover: 'Tumors' . We climbed Daff Dome's West Crack on our last day by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Descending Daff Dome by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Glacier glass (Daff Dome) by PatGallagherArt, on Flickr

Gear Notes:
Belay Chair and umbrella a must.

2 double rope buckets (Fish makes em) would have been exceptionally nice.

A dry bag works well for poo, but one without a burp vent might provide a better ambiance next time.
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