Bernese Alps > Mönch > Climber's LogMönch Climber's Log
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| Chamonix Man | Route Climbed: SE Ridge Date Climbed: 10th June 2004  | |
| This is a great mountain for acclimatising, and practicing basic techniques at the beginning of the season. It took 2 hrs to climb the ridge from the bottom, and half an hour to get to the start from the train station at the Jungfraujoch. The ridge has enough of a drop on either side to maintain interest, and the summit is splendid. Even though there is a lot of snow on the mountains this year, there are no problems with this route. A worthwhile day out! | |
| Posted Jun 12, 2004 6:38 am | ||
| Mathias Zehring | Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: August 11th 1986 | |
| with a group of the german alpine club. Unexperienced as I was I was glad that I could join the group for my first trip above 4000 m. | |
| Posted Apr 24, 2004 3:43 am | ||
| George66 | Route Climbed: Nollen Route NW Date Climbed: July-1984 | |
| first ice route ... | |
| Posted Jan 21, 2004 7:21 am | ||
| hmronnow | Route Climbed: SE ridge Date Climbed: 8. December 2003 | |
| Late start from Jungfraujoch. Left skis and pack at bottom of ridge. Easy semi-soft snow, no ice. Towards end of rocky part, there is a 'crux', which is difficult to get up and even more to get down. Would strongly recommend even soloers to bring 4-5 meters of rope, as there is a fixed metal spire just above the crux. Alternatively, a few handholds can be found by scraping off the snow. The snow-ridge was a bit soft in the afternoon, would have been better in the morning. Little wind on summit, great view on a cloud-less day. | |
| Posted Dec 8, 2003 1:00 am | ||
| athpal | Route Climbed: SE Ridge Date Climbed: 16th August 2003 | |
| In a sunny but windy day after two days waiting (bad weather) we reached the summit of the Monch via the normal route the SE ridge. It was an easy climb and the view from the top was fantastic. | |
| Posted Aug 25, 2003 3:17 am | ||
| fabrizior | Route Climbed: SE ridge Date Climbed: 25 May 1968 | |
| Ski-mountaneering approach to the pass then climbing on the easy ridge in a very cold day. | |
| Posted May 13, 2003 1:02 pm | ||
| Charles Garrett | Route Climbed: Traverse - up the West, down the SE Date Climbed: August 1999 | |
| My first Alpine 4000er. Went with Mark Ziegler from the Grindelwald Climbing Centre. Glorious day, but hot and I didn't drink enough which didn't help altitude acclimatisation. | ||
| Posted Dec 13, 2002 5:30 am | ||
| Vinny | Route Climbed: Nollen Date Climbed: July 2002 | |
| A fun route out with Toby! I guess the Nollen was in great shape cause we ran up in 4 hrs, 4.75 to Jungfrau Joch- just in time to avoid the predicted storm... People continued to head up the normal route as we came down despite the gathering snowclouds and accelerating storm... strange. A symptom of mtns TOO easy to access perhaps? I didn't read of any deaths that wkd but was pleasantly surprised considering the teams we saw heading up. A fantastic route! Guggi hut is quite nice! | |
| Posted Aug 22, 2002 9:18 am | ||
| kletterwebbi | Route Climbed: Sw Ridge up, Regular route down Date Climbed: August 1998 | |
| We climbed this as a day climb, may be not the best idea, but we made it. The SW-ridge is a very beautiful route and not much more difficult then the regular. | |
| Posted Aug 21, 2002 4:37 am | ||
| Moni | Route Climbed: Three different routes Date Climbed: 16 Aug 1977 & 28 Jul 1979 & 27 Jul 1989 | |
| Nollen Route My first 4000m peak over a very nice ice route. The Nollen at the time was almost vertical and quite difficult. With Dres Schild. Descended the SW Ridge East Face/NE Ridge The East face was not in good condition so we (Dres Schild and I) traversed over to the NE ridge. Otherwise a great climb with great views. Descended the SW ridge. SE Ridge (normal) I have climbed this peak more than any other. This time as a day climb with my husband Fred (see his log) | |
| Posted Aug 12, 2002 3:48 pm | ||
| lezlee | Route Climbed: SE ridge Date Climbed: 8. Aug 2002 | |
| A very attractive climb with the beutifull view of the surrounding mountains and gleciers. | ||
| Posted Aug 12, 2002 12:47 pm | ||
| An Old Buffer | Route Climbed: SE Ridge Date Climbed: 29th July 2002 | |
| Another 'old buffer' joined me half-way through a walking holiday I was enjoying from a base at the Hotel Oberland in Lauterbrunnen. We had signed up for a two day private instruction course with Hano from Swiss Alpine Guides to prepare us for an attempt to climb the Monch. On the 27th we set off for a days rock climbing and scrambling on a ridge facing the Steingletcher on the Sussten Pass. This was the first time I had put on a climbing harness and had been roped up. We had a superb day in complete solitude only interrupted by the impressive site of a chamois sensing our presence and taking off down a 60deg rocky slope. The second day was spent on the Steingletscher getting used to crampons, another first for me. Part of the time was rock climbing with crampons and getting used to ice ridges and steep descents. Again a superb day in perfect weather. I now realise that everything Hano was doing was to make us familiar with the equipment and the sort of conditions we would find on the Monch. He was watching us carefully and assessing our capabilities. Towards the end of the day we had a discussion and it was decided we needed a guide each so that we would feel comfortable on the exposed parts of the Monch. Monday 29th we set off on the first train to the Jungfraujoch with Hano and were joined by Chris from Sweden who would be my guide. We set off along the main track to the Monchjochshutte and opposite the begining of the SE ridge, roped up and put our crampons on. It was about 10am when we crossed the snow field on a long rope and started the climb. Chris put me on a short rope and we began the climb. I felt very comfortable with Chris, somewhat helped by him telling me he had climbed Annapurna last October and the North Wall of the Eiger a couple of years earlier. We made the summit in sunny conditions at approximately 1pm. The summit was somewhat crowded with about ten climbers enjoying the stunning view. The descent was slow and carefull with the snow getting quite soft in the hot conditions. Again a long rope for crossing the snowfield to the main track. As we were crossing Chris turned and pointed to a climber who had unroped for crossing the snowfield and had fallen up to his armpits. Fortunately he was pulled out but it demonstrated the stupidity of taking unnecessary risks. A fantastic three days with a great feeling on reaching the summit of the Monch. A great deal of respect and admiration for the professionalism of the guides. | |
| Posted Aug 2, 2002 9:21 am | ||
| Fred Spicker | Route Climbed: SE Ridge Date Climbed: 27 July 1989, 9 Aug 1997, & 27 July 2001 | |
| 1989 with Monica Spicker 1997 with Tanya Spicker 2001 with Katrin Schild All three climbs done as day climbs using the train to the joch. Amazing differences in the conditions each time - like doing 3 different routes. | |
| Posted Jul 25, 2002 1:40 pm | ||
| Pontius | Route Climbed: South east ridge Date Climbed: 16 july 2002 | |
| 8am start (white out stopped it being earlier) from our campsite at Monchjoch. Fresh snow made conditions harder for breaking trail (well done Phil). No other parties on route - which was nice! - Summited in 3hrs -interesting climb - snow deteriorated quickly due to sun. Summit ridge heavily corniced and exposed but a good climb. Off in 2 1/2 hours. Heavy snow (and avalanches) next few days forced us to miss the Jungfrau - back next year? | ||
| Posted Jul 22, 2002 12:45 am | ||
| LuisCandeias | Route Climbed: Normal route (SW ridge) Date Climbed: 10 July 2002 | |
| Climbed in a rope of three including a local guide. Bad weather all the way with wind and snow. Not much of a view from the top. We were the only group going for the summit at that time. Easy climb but exposed. The descent with a thin layer of fresh snow on the rocks demanded caution. | |
| Posted Jul 15, 2002 2:49 am | ||
| Vinny | Route Climbed: Southeast Ridge Date Climbed: March 2001 | |
| Lowest sweat factor in the Alpen 4000'ers but I read it kills more people than any other swiss mountain except the Matterhorn. ? It was a great snowplod of 2 hours from the (friggin cold) hut with Stefan. We returned to find our ski partners tossing their cookies after the highest train ride I've ever done. Awesome views (but the Eiger is less impressive from that angle), huge Cornices! | |
| Posted Jun 28, 2002 7:39 am | ||
| mountainmanjohn | Route Climbed: south west ridge Date Climbed: june 2000 | |
| We were the only ones staying in the hut for the night. The hut was very warm. We left at about six in the morning and took our time in a bright fresh morning, only seeing one other pair before we got back down to the glacier. The route SW Ridge is great, a scramble, then a few very fine snow ridges to the top. Watch out for cornices. We roped up for the top half but some don't. The summit views are great. A long way down to green patures on the north side, Jungrfrau to the west, Eiger to the east and the glaciers to the south. John Sickel, Mark Rapley, Nigel Hoad.......our first 4000M Mountain. | |
| Posted Jun 9, 2002 12:17 pm | ||
| felix | Route Climbed: South Face Date Climbed: Mai 1999 | |
| Had good weather during the ascent, but fog and storm arised during the descent of the south east ridge. Wonderfull view to the Aletschglacier. | ||
| Posted Apr 6, 2002 7:36 am | ||
| Bernhard Sauer | Route Climbed: North Ridge - Eisnollen Date Climbed: Summer 1978 | |
| did this as mountain guide with one client...nice tour...great visuals of Eiger and Jungfrau...highly recommended | |
| Posted Jan 25, 2002 7:53 am | ||
| dirkclaessen | Route Climbed: South-east ridge in winter Date Climbed: December 1986 | |
| My first winter climb. Did it solo. I left Grindelwald in the morning. Train to Jungfraujoch. Returned the same day. From Jungfraujoch on, I didn't see a soul the whole day. Just can't describe what feelings it give to climb all alone in winter with nothing else around but high mountains. Superb, nice conditions. | ||
| Posted Dec 29, 2001 2:23 am | ||
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