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Made to be Broken, 5.10c

 
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Made to be Broken, 5.10c
2nd Pitch- 30m- 5.10c/ Joe threw a directional bolt up and right but that would cause some rope drag on this pitch if you clipped it. It is best to skip that bolt and easily clip the first bolt up and left. From there to the 2nd bolt is perhaps the crux move of the climb, an awkward slab move. I balanced my weight on my right palm and extended my left fingers to their max to reach a positive piece of varnish up high in which to weight my feet with. From there the pitch angles up and left via an easy corner that eventually leads to a right traverse on edges (stay low) to good positive climbing that continues to a shoulder of sorts. Move back out right onto the face and station. Use shoulder length slings on the 2nd half of the pitch to cut down on rope drag.
Made to be Broken, 5.10c, 5 Pitches, Carbuncle Buttress, Red Arch Mountain, Zion National Park, Zion Free Routes, October, 2009

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Dow WilliamsSubmitted by Dow Williams
on Oct 14, 2009 4:22 pm

Image ID: 563658
Hits: 529 
Object Title: Made to be Broken, 5.10c

Image Type(s): Rock Climbing