This is a page as fine, pretty and informative as it should be!
In this case it could be useful drawing the routes into a picture. It's still not clear to me where to go exactly and the AV map doesn't help either
Thanks Mathias!
You' re right. Currently I' m working on two route pages, which describe the two routes I' ve done. I' ll post them within the next few days...
Has anyone ever stood on the summit of Westliche Marienbergspitze? I ask because it was a pretty scary experience, that summit is falling apart! :) In the process of putting my fingers on the top rock about 1/8th of the total mass fell away.
Great page Lukas, I used it yesterday to plan my day.
I did, that area is so beautiful. I climbed the Westsüdwestgrat, because I was alone and wanted to keep the difficulties on the easy side. My guidebook said that it should be rated UIAA III, while the White Snake (a beautiful feature) is rated IV. However, I see you rated Westsüdwestgrat IV, and after doing the route I think you are right. There was one quite hard move in particular that was beyond what I wanted to solo!
The rock was often very nice, but indeed, the biggest trouble I had came from the really shattered nature of the rock. You just never know when a nice big horn as a handhold will fracture into three pieces. This made the climb take much longer due to testing.
These peaks are just uniquely narrow, steep and shattered. What a great compact range!
First of all, thanks to Lukas for the great page with a lot of informations.
Saturday (12.06.2010) was a partly cloudy, but beautiful day in the Mieming Range. At around 1:30 pm I stood on top of the western Marienbergspitze together with my climbing partner Mike.
We choose our own way between the "white snake" and the western ridge, and were very lucky with that option...although the rock was very fragile. Thanks to Mike for finding the route. We had to climb very careful, but that was part of the challenge. Most parts of our route were UIAA II & III, with some single spots UIAA IV...
After resting almost 1 hour on the summit, overlooking a beautiful compact cloud cover, we were descending in southern direction through some couloirs. Two times we were forced to rappel 20 meters in a couloir. Sorry for leaving 2 small slings on the mountain, normally we try to avoid that...but in the face of upcoming dark rain clouds we had to hurry down...
Most fun was finding back the way through the pine bushes in dense cloudes, when the visibility was only 15 to 20 meters.
The whole day long, we were complete on our own...apart from some snow grouse...what a beautiful scenery! Especially looking down into the Schwärzkar...a fantastic back country skitour, I did two years ago...
I can recommend that mountain to those, who like individual alpine adventures without bolts every 5 meters...
Sorry I was wrong with the date, we also have been there on Saturday the 12.06.2010 (now the date is correct in my comment above). We started at around 9 o'clock in Biberwier and took the first chairlift...reaching the summit at around 13:30. You must have been up there only moments before us!!!
Would have been funny if we had met each other on this lonely summit...
Did you lost a red sling on the summit? We found one in a very good condition. Thought somebody must have been up there only a few days ago...
Ah, that makes good sense, because your description of the weather change matched my experience on Saturday exactly. I think 1.5 hours separated us, because I started at 6 am from the town and was on the summit at 12. I descended the Schwärzkar, you may have seen my tracks going down there. I also didn't visit the main summit, only the Westliche (very pointy and loose), and didn't see the sling. On the route itself I saw 3 pitons and a few Steinmändl, no other sign of passage. I wrote a TR here: Big Days in Tirol.
Perhaps see you again later in the mountains! I'm also in Munich.
--Michael
Vid Pogachnik - Sep 16, 2006 8:51 pm - Voted 10/10
Wonderful page!I heard a name of this mountain, but forgot all about it. Looks really fine, as the whole Mieming group.
Lukas Kunze - Sep 17, 2006 10:15 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Wonderful page!Thanks Vid! Marienbergspitze is worth every stone it is build of!
Mathias Zehring - Sep 17, 2006 7:37 pm - Voted 10/10
very fineThis is a page as fine, pretty and informative as it should be!
In this case it could be useful drawing the routes into a picture. It's still not clear to me where to go exactly and the AV map doesn't help either
Lukas Kunze - Sep 18, 2006 5:09 am - Hasn't voted
Re: very fineThanks Mathias!
You' re right. Currently I' m working on two route pages, which describe the two routes I' ve done. I' ll post them within the next few days...
mvs - Jun 13, 2010 2:07 am - Voted 10/10
Has anyone?Has anyone ever stood on the summit of Westliche Marienbergspitze? I ask because it was a pretty scary experience, that summit is falling apart! :) In the process of putting my fingers on the top rock about 1/8th of the total mass fell away.
Great page Lukas, I used it yesterday to plan my day.
Lukas Kunze - Jun 13, 2010 6:00 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Has anyone?Thanks :) I hope you had a great trip! Did you climb the "Weg der Weißen Schlange"?
Due to lack of time I didn' t visit the west summit. But looking at it I thought that it would be very fragile... Thanks for the information.
Cheers Lukas
mvs - Jun 13, 2010 8:09 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Has anyone?I did, that area is so beautiful. I climbed the Westsüdwestgrat, because I was alone and wanted to keep the difficulties on the easy side. My guidebook said that it should be rated UIAA III, while the White Snake (a beautiful feature) is rated IV. However, I see you rated Westsüdwestgrat IV, and after doing the route I think you are right. There was one quite hard move in particular that was beyond what I wanted to solo!
The rock was often very nice, but indeed, the biggest trouble I had came from the really shattered nature of the rock. You just never know when a nice big horn as a handhold will fracture into three pieces. This made the climb take much longer due to testing.
These peaks are just uniquely narrow, steep and shattered. What a great compact range!
schoarslechner - Jun 14, 2010 5:37 am - Voted 9/10
Re: Has anyone?First of all, thanks to Lukas for the great page with a lot of informations.
Saturday (12.06.2010) was a partly cloudy, but beautiful day in the Mieming Range. At around 1:30 pm I stood on top of the western Marienbergspitze together with my climbing partner Mike.
We choose our own way between the "white snake" and the western ridge, and were very lucky with that option...although the rock was very fragile. Thanks to Mike for finding the route. We had to climb very careful, but that was part of the challenge. Most parts of our route were UIAA II & III, with some single spots UIAA IV...
After resting almost 1 hour on the summit, overlooking a beautiful compact cloud cover, we were descending in southern direction through some couloirs. Two times we were forced to rappel 20 meters in a couloir. Sorry for leaving 2 small slings on the mountain, normally we try to avoid that...but in the face of upcoming dark rain clouds we had to hurry down...
Most fun was finding back the way through the pine bushes in dense cloudes, when the visibility was only 15 to 20 meters.
The whole day long, we were complete on our own...apart from some snow grouse...what a beautiful scenery! Especially looking down into the Schwärzkar...a fantastic back country skitour, I did two years ago...
I can recommend that mountain to those, who like individual alpine adventures without bolts every 5 meters...
See you out there
Marco
mvs - Jun 14, 2010 6:19 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Has anyone?Amazing! I was there only the day before you (12.06.2010). I didn't expect that you'd have good weather on Sunday. Really great!
schoarslechner - Jun 14, 2010 10:30 am - Voted 9/10
Re: Has anyone?Sorry I was wrong with the date, we also have been there on Saturday the 12.06.2010 (now the date is correct in my comment above). We started at around 9 o'clock in Biberwier and took the first chairlift...reaching the summit at around 13:30. You must have been up there only moments before us!!!
Would have been funny if we had met each other on this lonely summit...
Did you lost a red sling on the summit? We found one in a very good condition. Thought somebody must have been up there only a few days ago...
Best greetings from Munich
Marco
mvs - Jun 14, 2010 11:12 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Has anyone?Ah, that makes good sense, because your description of the weather change matched my experience on Saturday exactly. I think 1.5 hours separated us, because I started at 6 am from the town and was on the summit at 12. I descended the Schwärzkar, you may have seen my tracks going down there. I also didn't visit the main summit, only the Westliche (very pointy and loose), and didn't see the sling. On the route itself I saw 3 pitons and a few Steinmändl, no other sign of passage. I wrote a TR here: Big Days in Tirol.
Perhaps see you again later in the mountains! I'm also in Munich.
--Michael