Description:Matterhorn 4478m (Hörnli rige): As stated in several literature, the Matterhorn is the most famous and beautiful mountain of the world (sure there are also others). Therefore lots of alpinist come to Zermatt to stand on the awesome peak at least once in their life. The Matterhorn is often underestimated and therefore over 600 deaths! have been counted so far. The Matterhorn is one of the most challenging mountains and especially the determination of the route is very difficult. Furthermore the weather situation can change pretty fast and intensive around the Matterhorn. The descent is not easier as experienced in other routes, but rather difficult and needs full concentration again.
Our ascend: We started at 03.50am at the Hörnli-Hut and were on the peak after 3 hours and 40 minutes, at 07.30am. There were quite a lot of snow on the route, thus we already had to climb with crampon at 3800m, which made it even more difficult.
It is not necessary to describe the route more precisely, because this would fill out the pages and it is not easy. A lot of alpinist do not find the right route and have luck to find the way back. In addition the Solvay-Emergency-Biwak is used to overnight that they still can force the ascent anywise. On the way to the top there are several wrong abseil places, which lead into the breaking area of the east wall. There are a lot of wrong path traces leading off the beaten track.
> Route: Hörnli-Hut 3260m - Eisloch - Eseltritte – Old hut (Holzreste) – Gebiss – Untere Moseleyplatte - Solvay Emergency-Biwak 4000m – Obere Moseleyplatte - Unterer roter Turm – Schulter 4200m – Oberer roter Turm – Fixe Seile – Dach – Matterhorn Switzerland-peak 4478m is 1m higher than the Italien-peak.
> Difficulty: ZS+ / III, Route 341
> Time required: 4-5 hours for the ascent.
> Guide book: "Hochtouren im Wallis" from Hermann Biner or "Clubführer Walliser Alpen No.3 vom Col Collon zum Theodulpass" from Maurice Brandt.
> Link to the Matterhorn 4478m: Link to the Matterhorn trip
Written and climbed by: Cyrill
If you have any question, do not hesitate to contact me: [email protected]
Accommodations- Link to: Berghaus Matterhorn 3260m
- Link to: Link to Hörnli Hut 3260m