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Matterhorn, Hörnligrat First light, E. Face

 
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Matterhorn, Hörnligrat First light, E. Face
First light on the East Face of the Matterhorn - Hörnligrat Route.

Photo taken 19 August 1985 by Fred Spicker.

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Digglerlooks fun!

Diggler

Voted 10/10

How does the rest of the route compare to that? What is the route in YDS? What kind of pro' does one use? Sorry for the profuse Qs, but this mtn is big on my list. Nice shot- looks like a cool climb!
Posted Feb 6, 2004 5:36 pm

Fred SpickerRe: looks fun!

Fred Spicker

Hasn't voted

I will be adding more photos of the route in the next day or so.



Most of the route is UIAA II with two pitches of III-. II+ and III- are on the boundary of YDS 4th & 5th class. I would call II classic 4th class and III- 5.0 to 5.2. One normally finds fixed protection on pitches of II+ and above. Much of the route has "if you fall, you die" exposure.



Moni and I climbed up to the first Moseley slab (the first III- pitch) unroped. We roped there and remained roped to the summit and all the way down. We rappelled the fixed ropes and the Moseley Slabs and did short belays where needed. We are not especially fast and were 13 hours round trip from the hut.



There were fixed pitons on the Moseley slabs. We always belay in fixed ropes using the rope anchors as intermediate points and anchors at belay points. We carry webbing for attachment. On most of the major routes in areas where pitons would be buried by varying snow depth, the guides have put in metal posts (rebar) about 3 feet long with a loop in the top. You can see one behind my head with a man belaying from it here and a closer view of one here on the Eiger. These are exactly the conditions in which they are very nice to have in place.
Posted Feb 6, 2004 6:32 pm

Greg DRe: looks fun!

Voted 10/10

I'm curious about the etiquette for using these rebar posts. Is it first come first serve or is it understood that if there are guides in the area they are given first shot?



Thanks
Posted Feb 24, 2004 12:06 pm

Fred SpickerRe: looks fun!

Fred Spicker

Hasn't voted

I don't know, never had the occassion come up - it would be a little odd to be arriving at a belay stance at exactly the same time - unless ascending and descending parties were meeting. I would assume first come, first serve. There would certainly be room to tie in while the other party did their thing and then proceed.
Posted Feb 24, 2004 5:45 pm

jrmcgurie9Re: looks fun!

Hasn't voted

Great picture! What length rope did you use? If you placed pro, what did you place?
Posted Oct 6, 2004 3:45 pm

Fred SpickerRe: looks fun!

Fred Spicker

Hasn't voted

We used our 50 m rope which was just the right length for rappelling the Mosely Slabs (upper & lower). We did not need the full length going up.



In ascent, we did not rope until the Lower Mosely Slab and placed no protection on any of the route, but we did use the posts for the fixed ropes and the fixed posts (see above) as belay points.
Posted Oct 6, 2004 4:11 pm

jrmcgurie9Re: looks fun!

Hasn't voted

Did you use the fixed petons as pro then? Are there good places to place pro if you wanted to?? I ask only because I am hesitant to rope up unless placing some pro.
Posted Nov 2, 2004 12:42 pm

jrmcgurie9Re: looks fun!

Hasn't voted

Were you guys using a running belay?
Posted Nov 2, 2004 12:43 pm

Cyrill10+

Cyrill

Voted 10/10

soon at the mark :-)
Posted Jan 15, 2008 5:13 am

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 Hörnligrat (Route)

On the Hörnligrat. Summit to the far left.
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Image Data
Fred SpickerSubmitted by Fred Spicker
on Feb 6, 2004 4:58 pm

Image ID: 40922
Hits: 19835 
Lat/Lon: 45.97980°N / 7.66020°E
Object Title: Matterhorn, Hörnligrat First light, E. Face

Image Type(s): Alpine Climbing