billaknz - Feb 11, 2002 2:56 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2000
Route Climbed: Hornli Ridge Date Climbed: August 18, 2000
Not technically hard, but it defeated me on my first attempt in 1997. Be in great condition and spend a week in advance doing other 4000M climbs. It's as consistently hard coming down as going up. Rock climbing experience is needed. An indoor wall might suffice if that is your only option. Practice on a fixed rope as this technique is essential above the shoulder. On the day, carb up big and take plenty of drink. With this preparation, a friendly guide (there are too many false routes) and a head for heights, you will have a decent chance of making the summit. The objective dangers are unrelenting and the scale is bigger than you might imagine, but all the holds are there. It's as mentally hard as it is a physical challenge. An intense 10 hours in my life, six up and four down. You will never regret the experience. Stress on your job will never seem as bad again. Disappointed my partner Diane Baldwin (Blackburn,UK) was not with me on the summit. If you're thinking of climbing the Matterhorn and have questions, feel free to email me. Good luck, Bill Hood
Route Climbed: Horni Ridge Date Climbed: June 30th 2001
Being one who has climbed Assiniboine and other Canadian Rockies I can assure you that mountain no matter how Picture Perfect is a skree heap. Well at least for the parts that weren’t covered in 3 meters of snow.
I was in Zermatt from June 22 to July 1 and depending on whom you talk to it is either the best skiing in 20 years or the worst climbing in 30. There was and most likely still will be winter snow levels on the mountain at least till the end of July. The Guides are not even considering taking anyone up the Matterhorn until the 25th and even then they offer no guarantees.
This time of year the snow is of very poor quality. It is very hot during the day 15-25c at 4000m and warm at night 1 to –6. I managed to get most of the way up to the second hut but had to turn back simply because I was sinking down through 20-30cn of powder and occasionally through the crust underneath. Once or twice past waist level right up to my chest. Even of good pair of bear-paw or Algonquin’s (Canadian snowshoes) wouldn't have helped much.
I am not disappointed at all after all the mountain is not going anywhere so I can always go back.
My start day was June 30th and as far as I know I was the only climber on the mount. I started at Hotel Schwarzsee (the Hörnli Hut was closed and still may be for a little while as of the 5th only the winter hut was open) at 2.30 am weather was fine but it wind (30-50kph) picked up early at about 6am.
The famed lower route that everyone can’t seem to find was no real problem since by the time I got to the Hörnli Hut at 4 am the sun was already up and there was a well defined snow trail leading up. The route time to the second hut should be about 3 to 4 hours at most in summer less in winter but by around 8.30 am I was still not there. I went on for one more hour and got to a snowfield that lead up to it. Perhaps 100 meters below. The field was undisturbed powder snow about 45cm deep with some curst but mainly rocks underneath. This is were I decided to call it in and turn around. Physically I was feeling fine but with the wind still strong and wispy clouds starting to come of the peak and it neighbors (never a good sign) it was the wise choice. Basically it just was getting too unsafe to climb alone and without a mobile phone on the mountain.
I did stop for lunch in an alcove out of the wind and was surprised how much stuff was coming of the mountain. You could hear a constant din of rock fall as the snow melted and let them go. You could see them as well falling just off route. The temp by the way was about 16c in the sun at well over 3900m very hot to say the least.
The trip down was rather fast as I hade a 300m 9mm rope to rap down on and there are lots of chains bolts etc about to hook up to. Near the bottom I even got in some boot skiing on some of the less exposed bits. I was at the Hörnli hut by about 4:30 pm and it was full of climbers (25-30 the winter hut holds 15) there to try to climb it the next day. Most who could speak English gave me the usual third degree about conditions and I happily gave them my opinions. I made it back to Schwarzsee in time for double helping of dinner (thanks Hans) and to pack as it was my last day. The next morning when I was off I had a good look at the peak and no one was at the snow field below the second hut by 10:00 am and the weather closed in again so I figured no one was getting up it that day.
All in all a good recce for my next trip in a year of two. From what I have heard the conditions have only worsened this year with three deaths just after I attempted to climb it. Hopefully the fall climbing will be better.
billaknz - Feb 11, 2002 2:56 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2000
Route Climbed: Hornli Ridge Date Climbed: August 18, 2000Not technically hard, but it defeated me on my first attempt in 1997. Be in great condition and spend a week in advance doing other 4000M climbs. It's as consistently hard coming down as going up. Rock climbing experience is needed. An indoor wall might suffice if that is your only option. Practice on a fixed rope as this technique is essential above the shoulder. On the day, carb up big and take plenty of drink. With this preparation, a friendly guide (there are too many false routes) and a head for heights, you will have a decent chance of making the summit. The objective dangers are unrelenting and the scale is bigger than you might imagine, but all the holds are there. It's as mentally hard as it is a physical challenge. An intense 10 hours in my life, six up and four down. You will never regret the experience. Stress on your job will never seem as bad again. Disappointed my partner Diane Baldwin (Blackburn,UK) was not with me on the summit. If you're thinking of climbing the Matterhorn and have questions, feel free to email me. Good luck, Bill Hood
JScoles - Oct 2, 2001 4:26 am
Route Climbed: Horni Ridge Date Climbed: June 30th 2001Being one who has climbed Assiniboine and other Canadian Rockies I can assure you that mountain no matter how Picture Perfect is a skree heap. Well at least for the parts that weren’t covered in 3 meters of snow.
I was in Zermatt from June 22 to July 1 and depending on whom you talk to it is either the best skiing in 20 years or the worst climbing in 30. There was and most likely still will be winter snow levels on the mountain at least till the end of July. The Guides are not even considering taking anyone up the Matterhorn until the 25th and even then they offer no guarantees.
This time of year the snow is of very poor quality. It is very hot during the day 15-25c at 4000m and warm at night 1 to –6. I managed to get most of the way up to the second hut but had to turn back simply because I was sinking down through 20-30cn of powder and occasionally through the crust underneath. Once or twice past waist level right up to my chest. Even of good pair of bear-paw or Algonquin’s (Canadian snowshoes) wouldn't have helped much.
I am not disappointed at all after all the mountain is not going anywhere so I can always go back.
My start day was June 30th and as far as I know I was the only climber on the mount. I started at Hotel Schwarzsee (the Hörnli Hut was closed and still may be for a little while as of the 5th only the winter hut was open) at 2.30 am weather was fine but it wind (30-50kph) picked up early at about 6am.
The famed lower route that everyone can’t seem to find was no real problem since by the time I got to the Hörnli Hut at 4 am the sun was already up and there was a well defined snow trail leading up. The route time to the second hut should be about 3 to 4 hours at most in summer less in winter but by around 8.30 am I was still not there. I went on for one more hour and got to a snowfield that lead up to it. Perhaps 100 meters below. The field was undisturbed powder snow about 45cm deep with some curst but mainly rocks underneath. This is were I decided to call it in and turn around. Physically I was feeling fine but with the wind still strong and wispy clouds starting to come of the peak and it neighbors (never a good sign) it was the wise choice. Basically it just was getting too unsafe to climb alone and without a mobile phone on the mountain.
I did stop for lunch in an alcove out of the wind and was surprised how much stuff was coming of the mountain. You could hear a constant din of rock fall as the snow melted and let them go. You could see them as well falling just off route. The temp by the way was about 16c in the sun at well over 3900m very hot to say the least.
The trip down was rather fast as I hade a 300m 9mm rope to rap down on and there are lots of chains bolts etc about to hook up to. Near the bottom I even got in some boot skiing on some of the less exposed bits. I was at the Hörnli hut by about 4:30 pm and it was full of climbers (25-30 the winter hut holds 15) there to try to climb it the next day. Most who could speak English gave me the usual third degree about conditions and I happily gave them my opinions. I made it back to Schwarzsee in time for double helping of dinner (thanks Hans) and to pack as it was my last day. The next morning when I was off I had a good look at the peak and no one was at the snow field below the second hut by 10:00 am and the weather closed in again so I figured no one was getting up it that day.
All in all a good recce for my next trip in a year of two. From what I have heard the conditions have only worsened this year with three deaths just after I attempted to climb it. Hopefully the fall climbing will be better.