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Matterhorn Peak Climber's Log

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KevinEldonMissed the trail, sunk in the snow
Date Climbed: Nov 18, 2006


Didn't make the summit. I missed the trail hiking in from twin lakes and rambled through forest some boggy meadows and then took the wrong chute up toward Horse Creek pass. The snow was 2-3 feet deep and way too soft in the drifts at 9000 feet and the chute I picked was a very very bad choice. Oh well... it was a beautiful day and beautiful set of mountains.
Posted Nov 22, 2006 3:18 am

soslawS. East Slope
Date Climbed: Oct 29, 2006


Stunning Fall vistas with peaks softened by the autumn light. Climbed solo. Sunny on top but with a cold breeze.
Posted Oct 30, 2006 4:40 pm

mlarkin2002Failed attempt due to weather
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2006
Rained / snowed to scare a group of four of us away from the peak. We turned around at Horse Creek Pass.
Posted Oct 21, 2006 9:08 pm

Peak BaguetteRoute Climbed: SE Slope from Twin Lakes, Date Climbed 10.15.06  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 15, 2006

Peak Baguette

Kerouac said it best "Here we are by the fresh pure lake walkin along in this good air, by God, it's a haiku in itself."
Posted Oct 16, 2006 5:10 pm

Date Climbed: Sep 30, 2006


This was my first time in this area, and from twin lake up to the apline lake i was very exited to get climbing. The first day was great, hiking up to the base was warm for september. Then came the next day, it started out very, very nice. A few clouds in the sky to block the direct sun light, and no wind. But at about 10am after 3 pitches on the North Arete, the wind started to pick up a lot. Then sitting at a belay, i hear a yell from one of my party members, Dan. "i think we are going to start back down." When i got up to them, i look to the west and the sky had turned from a beautiful day to black clouds. So down we started, and after about 10 mins of setting up, it stated to snow, and got colder, and much winder. So we got down. The peak won the battle, but ill be back to win the war.
Posted Oct 11, 2006 9:13 pm

KerstinSoutheast slope.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2006


We camped at around 9200 feet in Horse Creek Canyon. It was extremely windy and hard to use our stove. The next day we hiked to the pass and started up Matterhorn Peak. This was a spur of the moment trip. We were driving through Bridgeport on our way to Bishop. We'd planned to do something in the Bishop Creek area. We both decided we didn't want to drive that far so we got a permit and headed to Twin Lakes. The lack of information about the area made for a fun little adventure. I did have the maps and a compass. The southeast slope was a slog, with bottomless loose gravel in a lot of places. Spiller Creek Canyon was so beautiful! After grunting our way up the loose rock and gravel, I found the summit ridge to be a lot of fun. We went straight up some very solid class three rock to reach it. The view from the top was amazing.
Posted Sep 1, 2006 1:44 am

renaistreEast Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2006


Aside from a lot of loose rocks and dirt in the chute, it was a fun climb. Great weather, beautiful views. We almost lost part of our lunch in one of the many deep cracks at the summit. There were six in our party.
Posted Aug 8, 2006 1:51 pm

jtreeEast Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2006


Larry S. and I tagged the summit via Horse Creek in 13 hours round trip. The views from the summit are awesome even for a Sierra peak!
Posted Aug 1, 2006 7:48 am

kovarpaUp West couloir, down East Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2006


Very enjoyable climb with Vendulka with a combination of snow and rock climbing. Up West Couloir, traverse summit ridge, down East Couloir. Roundtrip 11.5 hrs from Twin Lakes.
Posted Jul 8, 2006 4:13 am

mountainmattWalk Up


Topped out after some awesome random 3rd class scrambling.
Posted Mar 18, 2006 6:03 am

dshoshoneRoute Climbed: east couloir Date Climbed: 8/14/2004  Sucess!


Great climb with a couple of fs rangers from Mammoth Lakes
Posted Nov 8, 2005 6:40 pm

plumeRoute Climbed: right hand couloir Date Climbed: 5/98, 7/00  Sucess!


Great climb, numerous times. And going back.
Posted Nov 7, 2005 10:28 pm

Michael GraupeRoute Climbed: SE slope Date Climbed: Fall 2002  Sucess!

Michael Graupe

Tagged the summit on the return from Whorl Mountain. Long dayhike out of Twin Lakes.
Posted Oct 19, 2005 9:49 pm

Scott KreiderRoute Climbed: SE Slope Date Climbed: October 16, 2005  Sucess!
Left Twin Lakes about 6am by headlamp and summitted around 11:40 There was a light dusting of snow everywhere that made for slippery going. The many use trails are highly confusing. Going up I made the mistake of going left of the main drainage through a huge scree pile at a "step" just below the last trees before the pass. Heading straight up the center of the gulley here there is another use trail which avoids this.

I did not find the summit register. I would like to know if I was a bonehead and missed it or if it has gone missing. There was enough snow that it could have been hidden, but I scoured (what I believe) is the summit pretty carefully.
Posted Oct 17, 2005 12:17 pm

tdoughtyRoute Climbed: East Couloir  Sucess!


With Craig Sanford and Gary Stanridge
Posted Oct 16, 2005 1:42 pm

pwdrqstRoute Climbed: Scrambled Up Date Climbed: July 15, 2003  Sucess!
Beautiful day... Did it twice in 3 days
Posted Oct 4, 2005 2:53 pm

bechttRoute Climbed: near East Couloir (Ascent) / Horse Creek Pass (Descent) Date Climbed: 25 Sep 05  Sucess!


Plan was to ascend via SE slope. Turned up one canyon too early (for Horse Creek Pass) and climbed up to lake below glacier. Put on crampons (no ice ax) and began climbing what I thought was the East Couloir. Turns out it was the couloir to the left (Ski Dreams couloir.) Felt uncomfortable on steep ice without ice ax about a third of the way up and bailed onto the rocks on the right. Great class 3/4 climbing (mixed with some ice/gravel excitement). Finished ascent with final SE approach. After decending the scree to Horse Creek Pass, decided that my route finding mistake beat going up that slog.
Posted Sep 27, 2005 12:07 am

danman3156Route Climbed: North Arete Date Climbed: August 7 2005


My partner and I started around 8 am with clear skies but by the time we had finished the second pitch we were greeted with the rumble of thunder. Luckily we were at a point where we could rappell off the route rather easily. 3 Rappels later we were back on the ground.
Posted Aug 29, 2005 2:23 am

JonodoRoute Climbed: SE Slope Date Climbed: August 6, 2005  Sucess!


Did this climb with Erik J as an overnight trip. We were supposed to climb it on Saturday, but by the time we got over Horse Creek Pass the weather was turning nasty. Summited Sunday at 8:00 am, then tried Whorl, but couldn't find the correct chutes. Maybe next time. I thought Horse Creek Pass with a full backpack was harder than Matterhorn.
Posted Aug 9, 2005 10:47 am

KClossonRoute Climbed: Southeast Slope Date Climbed: Aug. 1st, 2005  Sucess!


My brother and I got to the summit at around 11:15 am. This was my third attempt after being snowed on during the first snow storm of the season on Oct. 31, 2003, and then turning around on the final ascent in July, 2004. Getting to Horseshoe Pass was easily done in a few hours, and the snow patches in the morning were easily traversed, but the final ascent to the summit through all the scree was brutal for me. I felt like I was walking on quicksand. I have lived at Twin Lakes almost every summer since I was a kid, but never knew anything about how to hike this peak until two years ago. Thanks to everyone on this site for all the information about how to do this hike, and keeping me updated on conditions.
Posted Aug 2, 2005 10:46 am

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