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McHenrys Peak Climber's Log

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SarahThompson3x and counting  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2008


7/19/08 - Traversed the NE (aka Arrowhead) Arete from Arrowhead. This is a very interesting line as the crest of the ridge overhangs Glacier Gorge, a rock cornice if you will. Fun scrambling on bomber rock. Route can be kept 3rd class by staying away from the crest, or 4th class scrambling can be found closer to the crest. Fun but easy routefinding - we backed off one or two moderate 5th class sections. The scenery is absolutely amazing. Descended the standard route to Stoneman Pass - very steep 3rd class scrambling.

6/21/15 - Via McHenrys Notch Couloir. Very pleasant route. Moderate and very aesthetic line up a deeply inset couloir followed by a delightful low 5th class scramble up bomber rock. Descended standard route.

9/12/15 - As part of the Glacier Gorge Traverse: Arrowhead -> McHenrys -> Chiefs Head -> Pagoda -> Longs -> Storm.
Posted Jun 21, 2015 5:59 pm

MikeyBVia Stomenman Pass  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2012


Awesome scrambling above SM pass-lots of 4th - low 5th class stuff. My favorite RMNP 13er!
Posted Sep 3, 2012 9:48 pm

chicagotransplantwith Chiefs Head  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 1, 2011


Climbed with Scot from Wild Basin, up to Lion Lake #2 and then up onto North Ridge (which is actually on Chiefs Head's south side) to the summit of Chiefs Head, traverse to McHenrys and then back down. We wanted to climb Mt Alice but weather moved in.
Posted Oct 2, 2011 9:52 pm

BLongGreat peak  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 1, 2011


An excellent, exposed scramble up the Northeast ArĂȘte and down Stone Man Pass.
Posted Oct 2, 2011 2:56 am

thatnissanguyAs part of GGT  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2011


Got off route on the way up from the notch. Fantastic climbing. Best peak of the day.
Posted Sep 12, 2011 10:57 pm

Brian KaletTriple Crown  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2010

Brian Kalet

With Chiefs Head & Alice.
Posted Sep 7, 2010 1:11 am

ripper333traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2010
traverse on ne arete fr arrowhead.. did this last year but wanted to come back and link on powell and thatchtop.. top day!
Posted Jul 7, 2010 12:08 pm

km_donovanStone Man Pass  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2010


Long day. Lots of snow so it made the going slow below tree line. Good glassading on the way out.
Posted Jun 6, 2010 9:34 pm

shknbkeNE Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2009


Came over from Arrowhead via the n.e. arete. This is such a fun route! Lots of class 3/4 scrambling on mostly solid rock. Descended to Stone Man Pass. Toughest 13er in RMNP.
Posted Sep 1, 2009 11:27 pm

jwclimbsNE Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2009


Posted Aug 29, 2009 9:02 pm

spannring29Arrowhead Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2008


Hounded by ominous clouds much of the day, but the weather held until we were back down to Black Lake. Good times.
Posted Aug 9, 2008 3:27 pm

Joe_ParvisStone Man Pass Standard  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2007


Went up McHenry's from Bear Lake TH (Glacier Gorge parking full) via Black Lake. Had perfect weather window (miracle for August) and started at 11am and finished at 830pm. Used long route around Black Lake, but this was nice because terrain beneath Spearhead beautiful. Stone Man gully a pain, but not too long. Scrambling beneath summit was challenging and I certainly did not want to fall in certain areas (I think I missed the best line near the top of the gully). Saw elk wading in lakes as I came out at dusk. Great day. Inspiring.
Posted Aug 24, 2007 7:22 pm

thebeave7Flattop to Chiefs Head Traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2006


By far the most interesting of the 7 peaks climbed that day. The class 4 from the Notch was very solid, no route finding needed. Even the direct ridge to stone man was enjoyable. Well worth it.
Posted Sep 5, 2006 5:41 am

jennakateStone Man Pass  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2006


This might possibly be my favorite mountain in the park to climb. So much variety and adventure, plus the summit is really cool!
Posted Sep 1, 2006 6:01 pm

miztflipWhere the Heck?  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2006


Completely missed the gully to the summit. Ended up on the SW ridge in wet 5th class terrain. Clouds were moving in fast and I was getting a little on edge. Great hike, made the roundtrip in 5hrs 40 min. Didn't see another person until the ledges below Spearhead. The clouds came in early and I had to forego Chiefshead. I'd have to say the summit has one of the best vistas in RMNP. You could see nearly every major peak in the park.
Posted Aug 18, 2006 11:22 pm

mpyleA long but rewarding day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2006


On the trail a little after 6:00. Went the long and left route from Black Lake, as was climbing solo at the time and was scared of the shorter/steeper route to the right. Shortly beyond Black Lake bumped into Mark from MN who had tried it previously, and we ended up climbing together to the summit. The final gully stretch was some of the most enjoyable climbing I've done. If only there wasn't so much darn hiking and scrambling to get there. : ) Maybe 4:45 up, and a sluggish 4:15 down over rain slickened rocks. Mark left my lagging behind in the dust on the descent from Stoneman Pass.
Posted Aug 14, 2006 2:32 am

markhyamsStone Man Pass  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2001


Climbing this was my 26th birthday present to myself. Fantastic.
Posted Mar 3, 2006 5:12 pm

NanitaDNanitaD  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 4, 1999


This was my 117th Rocky Mountain National Park peak and almost my last. Decending the snowfield back to Stone Man Pass I lost my iceaxe and started sliding headfirst. Fortunately a friend was at the bottom and caught me before I crashed into the rocks.
Posted Feb 18, 2006 9:00 pm

eazyelionRe: Route Climbed: NW Ridge from the McHenrys Notch Date Climbed: June 1966


Mountain Jim that is an impressive feat. Clear across from Flattop to McHenrys. It's great to see someone who has respect for this beautiful peak. To me it seems like it gets overlooked. Everybody is all about Longs Peak. Which is obviously the monarch of the park, but McHenrys is mighty in its own right. Simply gaining Stoneman Pass is an adventure especially with the kind of snow it accumulates. It is much more complicated than say reaching the Keyhole on Longs Peak. The backside of the mountain is fine scrambling and to me was more exciting than on Longs. Plus you're not having to worry about people above you. (Trough) Have you done the arrowhead arete route? It looks exciting.
Posted Feb 17, 2006 4:44 am

eazyelionRe: Route Climbed: Triple Crown Date Climbed: August 2, 2005


Wow the Triple Crown. What a day! I forget what order it goes in...guess whatever you desire. I've been up these peaks but all on seperate occasions. I love the hike past Lion Lakes and Snowbank on up to the Alice-Chiefs saddle. The day we climbed Hourglass Ridge we did it in absolute complete fog, socked in conditions. Chiefs Head ridge we were awed by the views. McHenrys was an epic day which I will never forget in which I nearly bit the dust sliding down a snow slope on the way down from Stoneman Pass. I believe we were on McHenrys a day before you. How was your traverse between Chiefs and McHenrys? I'd sure like to do the Triple Crown someday. I bet that was quite a taxing day physically. Congrats!
Posted Feb 17, 2006 4:37 am

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