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Middle Sister Climber's Log

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Shaun MatyasRoute Climbed: South East Ridge / North Ridge / Hayden Glacier Date Climbed: August 12, 2004  Sucess!

Shaun Matyas

A wonderful climb. My group did a loop from Lake Demeris, up the South East Ridge trail (the trail can be hard to find because of erosion), yet you can see were you need to go. We descended the North Ridge trial, which is easier to follow, then the SE, climbed the small peak between the North & Middle (Protey's point), then glissaded down the Hayden Glacier. Wonderful trip. Watch out for the butterflies, there were hundreds of them flying up and down the mountain.
Posted Aug 27, 2004 2:52 pm

Don NelsenRoute Climbed: South ridge Date Climbed: Sept 22, 1979  Sucess!

Don Nelsen

After climbing Broken Top the day before and backpacking a bushwhack route to the Chambers Lakes area we were a bit tired but realized this would be our only chance to climb this peak for maybe years to come. With Rob and Dave as partners, we scrambled up very unstable talus to the summit in about 2 hours from our camp at Chambers Lakes. This route is very unstable! Most of the time it felt as if the whole slope was about to give way. Won't do this route again! About 50 degrees at the summit with 30mph winds made it a bit uncomfortable for us dressed in shorts and t-shirts but at that age we all felt invinceable - boy did we have a lot to learn!



dn
Posted Jul 27, 2004 1:11 am

aishvRoute Climbed: Hayden Glacier Date Climbed: June 19th, 2004  Sucess!
Climb Party: Mazamas Climb - Portland OR



E. side ascent of Middle sister via the Hayden Glacier. Started from the Pole Creek TH (drive to Sisters OR, sign in at the Sisters Ranger Station and head to Pole Creek TH off of Hwy 242). Packed in to ~6200 ft and 5 miles from the TH for an overnight stay on June 18th. Early AM start at 03:00 up the Hayden Glacier to Prouty point. Had to use crampons almost all the way to the summit. Reached summit at 10:00, descended back to camp at 13:00. Broke camp and back at car at 17:00. Great climb with great weather and views from the summit. Since climb was early in the season, very few upper level crevasses were just starting to open up.
Posted Jul 5, 2004 12:47 pm

PawkalaRoute Climbed: East Side Date Climbed: September 11, 2003  Sucess!

Pawkala

Left from Pole Creek and hiked into timberline. Climbed up and played on the Hayden Glacier with its many wide open cravases before heading down for dinner and sleep under a full moon. All three sisters looked so beautiful under Gods night light. Climbed up the next morning roped in with my 3 other climbing partners. Had high winds up from the saddle. It made it a little tricky in spots since there was about 1 foot of the falls first snow on the ground. Made it up and back down with only momentary glimpses of North Sister to see from the top. Great climb and an awesome experience.
Posted Jul 1, 2004 10:53 pm

pjc30943Route Climbed: North Date Climbed: August 1998  Sucess!
Left Eastern Oregon at 3am, and began climbing at 7am. No special equipment needed, just ski goggles and plenty of water. The scree was two steps up, one slide down, as everyone knows:(



The ridge was a fun route, I have to say I saw the heels of the person in our group hiking in front of me, once too often though:)





Good memories from this climb
Posted Apr 17, 2004 12:48 am

eckdoerryRoute Climbed: north ridge Date Climbed: multiple spring  Sucess!

eckdoerry

As a leader in the Univ of Oregon outdoor program, I did this peak multiple times in multiple years --- this was the destination for the mountaineering class.. The approach is definitely best from the east.-- the Pole Creek Trailhead.



In spring, make sure you rope up on the glacier --- you wouldn't believe the crevasses that reveal themselves on that thing later in the summer.



The upper third can be difficult if there is hard snow and no one has kicked in steps ---- but this is rare, seeing as this mountain sees lots of traffic all year around.
Posted Nov 28, 2003 1:36 pm

hkutukRoute Climbed: SE Ridge Date Climbed: September 22, 2002  Sucess!

hkutuk

Camped at the nice Chambers lakes area at Camp Lake. Wandered around in the afternoon to check out the other lakes. Next day went up the distinct ridge all the way to the summit with close up views of the other Sisters. Great end of summer climb.
Posted Nov 14, 2003 12:17 pm

annaleiserabinekRoute Climbed: North Ridge via Renfrew Glacier Date Climbed: August 9, 2003  Sucess!

annaleiserabinek

See Cornvallis below for a detailed log. The Obsidian area is gorgeous. Take the time to get a Limited Entry Permit. You will not be dissapointed. Its one of the most beautiful areas I have ever been in.
Posted Aug 30, 2003 3:20 am

brandonRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2003  Sucess!

brandon

Traversed here after doing N Sister
Posted Aug 22, 2003 1:41 pm

dkantolaRoute Climbed: North Ridge via Renfrew Glacier Date Climbed: August 9, 2003  Sucess!

dkantola

See Cornvallis's entry below. Great views from the west side of the Sisters. The quota system is a pain. This route is reasonable to do in a day, but the hike out can feel a bit long.
Posted Aug 20, 2003 12:38 am

cmc56789Route Climbed: North ridge via Hayden Glacier Date Climbed: august 19, 2003  Sucess!

cmc56789

I left the pole creek trailhead solo at about 12:15 AM and reached the summit at 7:15. It was the best conditions i could have possibly asked for. I could see from St. helens and Adams all the way to Shasta and everything in between. no clouds at all north or south for about 45 minutes. also only a very mild breeze made the summit pleasant. the Hayden is pretty broken up with lots of crevasses. I would reccomend crampons and ice ax for safety. a fall could easily end up in a deep crevasse.
Posted Aug 19, 2003 11:42 pm

CornvallisRoute Climbed: North Ridge via Renfrew Glacier Date Climbed: August 9th, 2003  Sucess!

Cornvallis

Annaleiserabinek and I left Corvallis at 1:30 AM to meet fellow SummitPost member dkantola at the Obsidian trailhead by 3:30. We were late though, sorry dkantola, that road was crazy. Left the trailhead around 4:30 AM under starry sky’s. We reached the lava field and the first view of Middle and North Sisters as the dawn’s soft glow made for an incredible view. Saw a couple of deer in one of the many gorgeous wildflower meadows on the way up. Cached my huge pack near Sister Springs and headed up the climbers trail. The Renfrew was mild and crevasse free, crampons were not necessary, but would have been nice in a couple of spots. I was tempted to stop near the top of the north ridge and build a sand castle....it was deep. Enjoyed one of the best views anywhere for over an hour, most of the time we had the summit to ourselves. A bit cloudy, but other than that perfect. On our way down we enjoyed a few good glissades. Parted ways with dkantola at the Obsidian Trail and headed up the PCT to camp on a cliff at Sunshine with awe-inspiring views over Glacier Creek of Mt. Washington, Three Fingered Jack, Little Brother, North Sister, and Middle Sister. Asleep before dark, beautiful day. Surprisingly not crowded at all, only saw about 15 people on the mountain all day. Highly recommended, much nicer climb than South Sister with better views.
Posted Aug 11, 2003 9:41 pm

jtschanzRoute Climbed: Southeast Ridge Date Climbed: Sept 22, 2002  Sucess!

jtschanz

Hiked into Camp Lake area and set up camp beneath the shadow of South Sister. The next morning we followed the rocky SE ridge all the way to the summit. Views from the top were incredible.
Posted Jul 24, 2003 10:01 am

K WilliamsRoute Climbed: Hayden Glacier Date Climbed: 5-24-03  Sucess!

K Williams

We hit snow level just after the foot bridge makeing route finding hard. Thanks to GPS we made good time to base camp. Weather was prefect, with great veiws of surrounding Mountains till we were half way down, when a fast arpoaching storm rolled in.
Posted Jul 22, 2003 1:36 am

HammerRoute Climbed: North Ridge via Hayden Glacier Date Climbed: June 15, 2003  Sucess!

Hammer

Trail in from Soap creek still had a lot of snow making it a little difficult to saty near the official trail. We ended up backtracking slightly and reaching the toe of the Hayden. We camped at around 7200' on a small moraine. Wind started picking up in the evening so we moved our camp on the downslope of the moraine and we were much better protected.



Had planned to start at 0400 but ended up sleeping in till 0630 before we got started. Took our leisurly time climbing up the right hand side of the glacier where we reached the saddle next to Prouty Point. It started it getting pretty warm. We gained the ridge and followed it up. Most of it was covered in snow and we experienced a short 50 degree section which required a little front pointing shortly before the summit. Had the summit to ourselves when we noticed a coupl eof people slowly making their way up the route. We started ou descent here we experienced softening snow and very warm temperatures. Since bith me and my partner had forgotten sun screen and lip protection we hurried down to our camp and the safety of the trees. When we got back to our camp a raven had decided to deposit my belongings all over the place.



The hike out was like always hot and long.
Posted Jun 17, 2003 11:50 am

Noah (Oregon)Route Climbed: SE Ridge Date Climbed: May 17th, 2003

Noah (Oregon)

The hike in from Pole Creek was uneventful yet beautiful. However, the snow patches made it somewhat hard to follow the official trail. We finally reached a small rise due East of the SE Ridge and set up camp. Extreme winds forced us to break camp and move back down the mountain into the trees. Our second camp was great.

Woke at 5:30 and headed out around 6 for the summit under the most perfect blue skies. Still, tons of snow made this a very different route from the one I had read about. It has not been a very sunny year and the snow pack is still very consistant. We never set foot on a single rock from the camp at the treeline to the summit.

Summit Post made this route seem like a hike on a rough, rocky trail but instead we used every point of our crampons and our ice axes to climb the perfectly encrusted SE Ridge. The weather held all day and made the half hour on the summit a great experience. The views were breathtaking.

The climb down was great and included huge glissades. We ate lunch and started to hike out. The trail was nowhere to be found so we crossed the creek and just bushwacked due North. We came out very close to the car but happy we had a good map and knew how to use our compasses.

*Note - Under the early season snowpack, this route is harder than the "walk-up" that is listed on this page. We had nothing but perfectly firm ice and snow under our feet and while there is nothing technical, a fall would be catastrophic if you failed to arrest yourself.
Posted May 22, 2003 2:55 pm

techboyRoute Climbed: North Ridge via Hayden Glacier Date Climbed: October 12th, 2002  Sucess!
Part one of the the Sisters' Trilogy:

Car camped at Pole creek and hit the trail by 6 AM. No crampons were necessary during the climb, although we did employ our ice axes at some points. Reached the summit by 2 PM feeling nauseous and with a splitting headache - altitude sickness? Went away after downing some Ibuprofen. It was a gorgeous climbing day and the view from the summit was spectacularly clear. It wasn't as windy as others had described, so perhaps we lucked out. We got back to the parking lot by 7 PM. 13 hours for the whole shebang. Very long day - next time we'll hike in and camp. This was my first summit of Middle Sister and in fact, my first Real mountain summit!

Posted Dec 3, 2002 11:51 pm

zzrilRoute Climbed: N Ridge Date Climbed: July 1997  Sucess!

zzril

Beautiful climbing with only one other party on the mountain.
Posted Nov 22, 2002 12:58 pm

mtndaveRoute Climbed: Frog Camp Trailhead Date Climbed: August 1977  Sucess!

mtndave

My first 10K peak , climbed it when I was 17 . Hiked in from Frog campground , headed up south of Renfrew Glacier since we didnt have crampons also the low snowfall of that year contributed to an easy scree walk up . There was a lake at about 7500 ft , boy it was cold but refreshing ! Clear and beautiful weather the whole trip !
Posted Oct 22, 2002 9:30 pm

cluckRoute Climbed: North Ridge via Renfrew Glacier Date Climbed: August 18 2002  Sucess!

cluck

1st time up for our group of 5. Lessons learned:

1) Plan ahead to get camping permit rather than climb round trip from Frog Camp/Obsidian Trail entry in one push. Makes for a very long day.

2) Obsidian along the trail was very cool. If you haven't seen a bunch of this black, glass-like rock before, you should check it out.

3) Climber's trail - headed East from a spring along the PCT - is easy to miss the 1st time. If you get to Obsidian Falls, you went too far.

4) The Renfrew Glacier was tame. Crampons were great, but no obvious crevasse danger, particularly versus the Hayden on the East side

5) The scree slog up the North Ridge is pretty awful. If I climbed this moutain again, I would do it earlier in the season and stay on as much snow as possible.

6) Climb was much less crowded than I figured. Saw only 5 other parties and 1 came up from Southeast ridge

Posted Aug 25, 2002 12:02 pm

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