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Middle Sister Climber's Log

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amochkaRoute Climbed: Hayden Glacier Date Climbed: August 14, 2005


Definitely too late in the season for this route. Not enough snow this year to be climbing this route this late..hayden glacier heavily crevassed, lots o' rockfall, etc. Reached the point just below the north ridge and couldn't safely head up, so didn't get to tag the summit. Steps in heavily crevassed area were blowing out....and lots of loose rock coming off the saddle between north and middle sister.

Seems that the southeast ridge looks better to me if you have to walk up shifting piles of rock, which is basically what we spent all day doing. Beautiful weather, clear skies and good company made the slog worth it. Will be back earlier in the season or will try a different route next year.
Posted Aug 17, 2005 6:08 pm

crirwinRoute Climbed: Hayden Glacier Date Climbed: July 25, 2004  Sucess!


A long one-day slog from Pole Creek Trailhead with my friend Nathan. Once we hit the Hayden we made a direct shot along the right edge of the glacier toward Prouty Point. Saw one good sized rock slide just as we approached the Point. The last scramble up the North Ridge was straightforward with one good pitch of late season snow that required us to break out the ice axes.

A thunderstorm started to approach just as we were about halfway down the Hayden on our descent. I didn't know I could run so fast with a pack on! Made it down below treeline just as the lightning began crackling overhead.

Finished the long hike back to the car - about 14 hours roundtrip.
Posted Jul 13, 2005 1:37 pm

DagiTigRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: August 31, 2003  Sucess!


What a great climb and beautiful weather! A little tricky traversing one of the glaciers - crampons would have been nice!
Posted Jun 8, 2005 2:01 pm

onandupwardsRoute Climbed: North ridge/Hayden Glacier Date Climbed: October 2003  Sucess!


Exposed crevasses due to late season climb, had to skirt to ridge to avoid.
Posted Feb 21, 2005 1:15 pm

Andy DeweyRoute Climbed: South Ridge/Irving Glacier Date Climbed: August 2001  Sucess!

Andy Dewey

Camped at Chambers Lakes, climbed via Irving Glacier and south ridge. Great day, awesome views.
Posted Feb 3, 2005 3:43 pm

K2McKayRoute Climbed: Hayden Glacier and North Side Date Climbed: July 25 1998  Sucess!
Great skiing down the cone and the glacier both. Me and Joe rocked it hard weaving in and out of the crevasses. The summit cone is nice and steep as well. All in all, a great day.

Posted Nov 22, 2004 6:42 pm

Shaun MatyasRoute Climbed: South East Ridge / North Ridge / Hayden Glacier Date Climbed: August 12, 2004  Sucess!

Shaun Matyas

A wonderful climb. My group did a loop from Lake Demeris, up the South East Ridge trail (the trail can be hard to find because of erosion), yet you can see were you need to go. We descended the North Ridge trial, which is easier to follow, then the SE, climbed the small peak between the North & Middle (Protey's point), then glissaded down the Hayden Glacier. Wonderful trip. Watch out for the butterflies, there were hundreds of them flying up and down the mountain.
Posted Aug 27, 2004 2:52 pm

Don NelsenRoute Climbed: South ridge Date Climbed: Sept 22, 1979  Sucess!

Don Nelsen

After climbing Broken Top the day before and backpacking a bushwhack route to the Chambers Lakes area we were a bit tired but realized this would be our only chance to climb this peak for maybe years to come. With Rob and Dave as partners, we scrambled up very unstable talus to the summit in about 2 hours from our camp at Chambers Lakes. This route is very unstable! Most of the time it felt as if the whole slope was about to give way. Won't do this route again! About 50 degrees at the summit with 30mph winds made it a bit uncomfortable for us dressed in shorts and t-shirts but at that age we all felt invinceable - boy did we have a lot to learn!

Posted Jul 27, 2004 1:11 am

aishvRoute Climbed: Hayden Glacier Date Climbed: June 19th, 2004  Sucess!
Climb Party: Mazamas Climb - Portland OR

E. side ascent of Middle sister via the Hayden Glacier. Started from the Pole Creek TH (drive to Sisters OR, sign in at the Sisters Ranger Station and head to Pole Creek TH off of Hwy 242). Packed in to ~6200 ft and 5 miles from the TH for an overnight stay on June 18th. Early AM start at 03:00 up the Hayden Glacier to Prouty point. Had to use crampons almost all the way to the summit. Reached summit at 10:00, descended back to camp at 13:00. Broke camp and back at car at 17:00. Great climb with great weather and views from the summit. Since climb was early in the season, very few upper level crevasses were just starting to open up.
Posted Jul 5, 2004 12:47 pm

pjc30943Route Climbed: North Date Climbed: August 1998  Sucess!
Left Eastern Oregon at 3am, and began climbing at 7am. No special equipment needed, just ski goggles and plenty of water. The scree was two steps up, one slide down, as everyone knows:(

The ridge was a fun route, I have to say I saw the heels of the person in our group hiking in front of me, once too often though:)

Good memories from this climb
Posted Apr 17, 2004 12:48 am

annaleiserabinekRoute Climbed: North Ridge via Renfrew Glacier Date Climbed: August 9, 2003  Sucess!


See Cornvallis below for a detailed log. The Obsidian area is gorgeous. Take the time to get a Limited Entry Permit. You will not be dissapointed. Its one of the most beautiful areas I have ever been in.
Posted Aug 30, 2003 3:20 am

brandonRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2003  Sucess!


Traversed here after doing N Sister
Posted Aug 22, 2003 1:41 pm

dkantolaRoute Climbed: North Ridge via Renfrew Glacier Date Climbed: August 9, 2003  Sucess!


See Cornvallis's entry below. Great views from the west side of the Sisters. The quota system is a pain. This route is reasonable to do in a day, but the hike out can feel a bit long.
Posted Aug 20, 2003 12:38 am

cmc56789Route Climbed: North ridge via Hayden Glacier Date Climbed: august 19, 2003  Sucess!


I left the pole creek trailhead solo at about 12:15 AM and reached the summit at 7:15. It was the best conditions i could have possibly asked for. I could see from St. helens and Adams all the way to Shasta and everything in between. no clouds at all north or south for about 45 minutes. also only a very mild breeze made the summit pleasant. the Hayden is pretty broken up with lots of crevasses. I would reccomend crampons and ice ax for safety. a fall could easily end up in a deep crevasse.
Posted Aug 19, 2003 11:42 pm

CornvallisRoute Climbed: North Ridge via Renfrew Glacier Date Climbed: August 9th, 2003  Sucess!


Annaleiserabinek and I left Corvallis at 1:30 AM to meet fellow SummitPost member dkantola at the Obsidian trailhead by 3:30. We were late though, sorry dkantola, that road was crazy. Left the trailhead around 4:30 AM under starry sky’s. We reached the lava field and the first view of Middle and North Sisters as the dawn’s soft glow made for an incredible view. Saw a couple of deer in one of the many gorgeous wildflower meadows on the way up. Cached my huge pack near Sister Springs and headed up the climbers trail. The Renfrew was mild and crevasse free, crampons were not necessary, but would have been nice in a couple of spots. I was tempted to stop near the top of the north ridge and build a sand castle....it was deep. Enjoyed one of the best views anywhere for over an hour, most of the time we had the summit to ourselves. A bit cloudy, but other than that perfect. On our way down we enjoyed a few good glissades. Parted ways with dkantola at the Obsidian Trail and headed up the PCT to camp on a cliff at Sunshine with awe-inspiring views over Glacier Creek of Mt. Washington, Three Fingered Jack, Little Brother, North Sister, and Middle Sister. Asleep before dark, beautiful day. Surprisingly not crowded at all, only saw about 15 people on the mountain all day. Highly recommended, much nicer climb than South Sister with better views.
Posted Aug 11, 2003 9:41 pm

jtschanzRoute Climbed: Southeast Ridge Date Climbed: Sept 22, 2002  Sucess!


Hiked into Camp Lake area and set up camp beneath the shadow of South Sister. The next morning we followed the rocky SE ridge all the way to the summit. Views from the top were incredible.
Posted Jul 24, 2003 10:01 am

K WilliamsRoute Climbed: Hayden Glacier Date Climbed: 5-24-03  Sucess!

K Williams

We hit snow level just after the foot bridge makeing route finding hard. Thanks to GPS we made good time to base camp. Weather was prefect, with great veiws of surrounding Mountains till we were half way down, when a fast arpoaching storm rolled in.
Posted Jul 22, 2003 1:36 am

HammerRoute Climbed: North Ridge via Hayden Glacier Date Climbed: June 15, 2003  Sucess!


Trail in from Soap creek still had a lot of snow making it a little difficult to saty near the official trail. We ended up backtracking slightly and reaching the toe of the Hayden. We camped at around 7200' on a small moraine. Wind started picking up in the evening so we moved our camp on the downslope of the moraine and we were much better protected.

Had planned to start at 0400 but ended up sleeping in till 0630 before we got started. Took our leisurly time climbing up the right hand side of the glacier where we reached the saddle next to Prouty Point. It started it getting pretty warm. We gained the ridge and followed it up. Most of it was covered in snow and we experienced a short 50 degree section which required a little front pointing shortly before the summit. Had the summit to ourselves when we noticed a coupl eof people slowly making their way up the route. We started ou descent here we experienced softening snow and very warm temperatures. Since bith me and my partner had forgotten sun screen and lip protection we hurried down to our camp and the safety of the trees. When we got back to our camp a raven had decided to deposit my belongings all over the place.

The hike out was like always hot and long.
Posted Jun 17, 2003 11:50 am

techboyRoute Climbed: North Ridge via Hayden Glacier Date Climbed: October 12th, 2002  Sucess!
Part one of the the Sisters' Trilogy:

Car camped at Pole creek and hit the trail by 6 AM. No crampons were necessary during the climb, although we did employ our ice axes at some points. Reached the summit by 2 PM feeling nauseous and with a splitting headache - altitude sickness? Went away after downing some Ibuprofen. It was a gorgeous climbing day and the view from the summit was spectacularly clear. It wasn't as windy as others had described, so perhaps we lucked out. We got back to the parking lot by 7 PM. 13 hours for the whole shebang. Very long day - next time we'll hike in and camp. This was my first summit of Middle Sister and in fact, my first Real mountain summit!

Posted Dec 3, 2002 11:51 pm

zzrilRoute Climbed: N Ridge Date Climbed: July 1997  Sucess!


Beautiful climbing with only one other party on the mountain.
Posted Nov 22, 2002 12:58 pm

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