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JadeOn a Mission  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 1998

Jade

Climbed this with Bob Enagonio in 7 pitches.
Bring a standard rack, full set of stoppers, cams. Large cams ~110 mm (DMM Dragon 6/BD Camalot 4 or equiv) is recommended for pitch 5.
Pitch 1 ~45 m 5.8
Pitch 2 ~25 m 5.8 loose rock in middle.
Pitch 3 ~35 m 5.7
Pitch 4 ~35 m 5.8
Pitch 5 ~25 m 5.8 75-100 mm crack
Pitch 6 ~30 m 5.9 this is the crux some say it is harder we thought 5.9 was fair on the day.
Pitch 7 ~35 m 5.6
I guess the best advice would be, if you are a solid climber up to 5.10c this is an enjoyable route to consider. A nice line on the Yam.
Posted Nov 7, 2013 8:55 pm

Dow WilliamsMissionary's Crack  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2008

Dow Williams

I led the pitch that has folks sort of questioning the grade on this route, the 6th pitch which I combined with the 5th pitch for one sustained 60m pitch. You can do this by setting up belay on the top of the corner. There is an existing bomber nut (2008) at that location. My two 2nds this day do a lot of climbing and thought it was more like 5.11a. I agree it was more than 5.10a, but would not go that far. Off width can seem a lot harder to some than others. What I will say, is that there is really no great jamming going on as the beta would lead you to believe. It is a corner pitch, plain and simple, with some heinous off width that I did not mind so much. You end up having to climb past an active eagles nest, so it would be best to not climb this route in early summer unless you just can't resist for some reason. The 4th pitch is steep for the grade as well, but quite fun. You really have to traverse on that first pitch and can get your ropes stuck on lead if not careful. A lot of loose rock on the 2nd pitch, don't go to high there. Watch the loose block on your tricky traverse of the 7th pitch as you are downclimbing. You need medium to larger gear in doubles if you are going to combine that 5th and 6th pitch as I did. I only had singles and had it quite run out. With Steve and Jackie.
Posted Aug 25, 2008 10:24 am

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