Good story - we started doing some mixed climbing last year and also totally enjoyed it. I'd still rather climb ice, but we found it was a really fun thing to do in the shoulder season (too warm to ice cimb, too cold to rock climb). The thing I found weird about it, is that you don't really know when you're going to fall; your tool pops and you're falling (no time to get scared). Another thing we do, that you might want to try (after watching your video), is stick clip the first bolt. A fall, even a short one, getting to the first bolt with crampons on can end your climbing season for a while.
Ha! I've never heard it called 'shoulder season', but I like it! I am getting much better at 'feeling' with my tools and having a better idea of when they are going to pop, but for the most part, yeah, sometimes it just happens! And I completely agree about the stick clip, this is standard practice at Vail. Didn't have a stick or anything for Loch Vale, so I just went for it. Would not want to fall though, that would really kill the season! Thanks for the read.
Unfortunately not. The clinic I signed up for was on Tic Tac, and I wanted to go back and lead it then the next weekend, but since I could not walk (or climb) I was unable to :( Something for next season I guess. Thanks for the read, hope all is well, happy climbing,
Tic Tac is pretty nice but a little too well traveled (read: jugs for hooks). Its neighbor though - Seamstress - is the sweeeet! Super technical, super sustained. You'd love it.
Very exciting write up! Although I have not done a whole lot of mixed yet, what I have done so far definitely gets the pulse pounding and the adrenaline flowing! You have some great pics on this write up, thanks for posting it!
I'm on it! Still got at least a month or two of taking it easy and doing finger/lockoff strength trainging. Ankle is still tender. Should be good to rage for rock season! YEAH BOY!
Great TR. When I get back to CO in June we'll have a climb off on Godzilla in Vail;) As for now, I'm off to the Canadian Rockies; time to redpoint my first M9.
Mike
Hell yeah!! Sounds like a plan. I have never tooled in the summer, but that would be nice. Godzilla is on my list... a never ending one! Do you use rock shoes then as well? Good luck on your M9, I'm sure you'll get it! Keep in touch,
Augie Medina - Jan 27, 2008 6:23 pm - Voted 10/10
Outstanding ReportExciting stuff!
Dan Dalton - Jan 28, 2008 12:41 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: AwesomeThanks! I encourage everyone to try mixed climbing at least once!
Dan
AJones - Feb 2, 2008 10:57 pm - Voted 10/10
Good Story!Good story - we started doing some mixed climbing last year and also totally enjoyed it. I'd still rather climb ice, but we found it was a really fun thing to do in the shoulder season (too warm to ice cimb, too cold to rock climb). The thing I found weird about it, is that you don't really know when you're going to fall; your tool pops and you're falling (no time to get scared). Another thing we do, that you might want to try (after watching your video), is stick clip the first bolt. A fall, even a short one, getting to the first bolt with crampons on can end your climbing season for a while.
Dan Dalton - Feb 3, 2008 2:36 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Good Story!Ha! I've never heard it called 'shoulder season', but I like it! I am getting much better at 'feeling' with my tools and having a better idea of when they are going to pop, but for the most part, yeah, sometimes it just happens! And I completely agree about the stick clip, this is standard practice at Vail. Didn't have a stick or anything for Loch Vale, so I just went for it. Would not want to fall though, that would really kill the season! Thanks for the read.
Dan
MichaelJ - Feb 3, 2008 1:07 am - Hasn't voted
Awesome report/murder on your pointsDid you get a chance to try Tick Tic at Ouray?
Dan Dalton - Feb 3, 2008 2:37 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Awesome report/murder on your pointsUnfortunately not. The clinic I signed up for was on Tic Tac, and I wanted to go back and lead it then the next weekend, but since I could not walk (or climb) I was unable to :( Something for next season I guess. Thanks for the read, hope all is well, happy climbing,
Dan
emppeng27 - Feb 6, 2008 9:25 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Awesome report/murder on your pointsTic Tac is pretty nice but a little too well traveled (read: jugs for hooks). Its neighbor though - Seamstress - is the sweeeet! Super technical, super sustained. You'd love it.
fossana - Feb 4, 2008 2:44 pm - Voted 10/10
niceGreat write-up and pics. You're in the perfect place for it. Enjoy!
Asphazell - Feb 4, 2008 2:52 pm - Voted 10/10
Well done!Very exciting write up! Although I have not done a whole lot of mixed yet, what I have done so far definitely gets the pulse pounding and the adrenaline flowing! You have some great pics on this write up, thanks for posting it!
Dan Dalton - Feb 5, 2008 11:10 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Nice Write Up...Can do Chief! Thanks for the words of encouragement. I'll keep on postin'.
Dan
mvs - Feb 5, 2008 2:50 am - Voted 10/10
Much appreciatedThanks for telling us about your thoughts on entering the new sport. I really learned something. Good luck!
Dan Dalton - Feb 5, 2008 11:11 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Much appreciatedThanks! It is nice to know that people actually read the reports ;) Hope you get the chance to do this some time as well! Happy climbing.
Dan
zenalpinist - Feb 5, 2008 12:33 pm - Hasn't voted
Word!Get better so we can climb some more together. Peace out!
Dan Dalton - Feb 5, 2008 11:12 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Word!I'm on it! Still got at least a month or two of taking it easy and doing finger/lockoff strength trainging. Ankle is still tender. Should be good to rage for rock season! YEAH BOY!
Dan
stinkycheezman33 - Feb 5, 2008 11:04 pm - Voted 10/10
great TRthanks for sharing! wonderful photos and entertaining video
emppeng27 - Feb 6, 2008 9:31 pm - Hasn't voted
Heal UpGreat TR. When I get back to CO in June we'll have a climb off on Godzilla in Vail;) As for now, I'm off to the Canadian Rockies; time to redpoint my first M9.
Mike
Dan Dalton - Feb 6, 2008 10:47 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Heal UpHell yeah!! Sounds like a plan. I have never tooled in the summer, but that would be nice. Godzilla is on my list... a never ending one! Do you use rock shoes then as well? Good luck on your M9, I'm sure you'll get it! Keep in touch,
Dan
Dave S - Feb 7, 2008 12:37 am - Voted 10/10
Great readInspiring!!! Good luck in healing up for next season!!!
Dave