-
2118 Hits
-
70.59% Score
-
1 Votes
Page Type:
|
Route |
|---|---|
Route Type:
|
Mountaineering |
|
Time Required:
|
Most of a day |
|
Difficulty:
|
F3 ***** |
|
Number of Pitches:
|
4 |
|
Overview
FA: Pitches 1 to 3: Dick Barry and Colin Gebhardt. 29 January 1938. Pitch 4: Malcolm Moore, Martin Winter and Matt Makowski 18 August 1963.
This is a Classic route made famous by the death of Dick Barry while trying to make a first ascent of the peak. The crux pitch is on good rock, but exposed and is perhaps more difficult to second than to lead. It is overall a more serious route than the Standard Route climb.
This is a Classic route made famous by the death of Dick Barry while trying to make a first ascent of the peak. The crux pitch is on good rock, but exposed and is perhaps more difficult to second than to lead. It is overall a more serious route than the Standard Route climb.
Getting There
Take the route described for the Standard Route up to the col between Cathkin and Monk’s Cowl. About 100m below the col, traverse out to the right along a broad grass ledge that crosses the north face of Monk’s Cowl. Continue around a
corner where there is a rock shoulder. Just past the rock shoulder it is possible to scramble up to a higher grass ledge. Walk to the right along this grass ledge on the west face. After rounding a corner, ascend a small, short gully and scramble up to reach the next rock band on the west face. Start at the base of a 10m-rock slab with some overhanging blocks near the top. This is about 20m to the right of the ridge separating the sheer north face from the more broken west face. 2hrs from Keith Bush camp.
Route Description
Start 20m right of the ridge.
1. 15m (E) Climb the slab to under the blocks. Traverse a couple of metres to the right and then climb up onto the grass ledge above. Cross a broad grass ledge diagonally to the right to the bottom of a small gully through the next rock band. Climb the gully and then traverse to the left along a grass ledge until the next rock band can be climbed via a shallow recess to a grass ledge. Traverse left along the ledge to a peg located just before the ledge peters out. Belay here for the next pitch.
2. 25m (E) Climb up a metre or two onto a big flake then move up diagonally to the left into a sloping groove/ slab,
which is visible on the left hand skyline from the belay. Move up and around the corner onto a steep slab. Climb straight up to reach a belay on a large grass ledge. Walk to the right to the base of a large recess.
3. 25m
(F2) Start up a slab and climb up to a belay in the higher of the two cubbyholes spaced about 3m apart. Protection is sparse - 1 to 2,5 cams. A few pegs may also be useful.
4. 30m (F3). From the second cubbyhole, move out and up diagonally to the right for a couple of metres until it is possible to traverse to the right along a narrow rock ledge, with several fixed pegs, to reach the base of a crack. Move up
through the crack (well protected) and onto another small ledge. Move slightly to the right to the base of two exit cracks. Climb the right hand crack to reach a belay at the edge of a broad grass ledge. At this point join the Standard Route just where it comes around the corner from the south side. (5.5 hrs from the start of pitch 1 to summit).
Descent: Reverse the route to the point where Barry’s Route and the Standard Route meet. Walk around to the south face side on this large ledge. Keep going until forced to scramble down over rock and grass to the fixed abseil point mentioned on pitch 3 of the Standard Route. Abseil 40m to the first cubbyhole and the fixed abseil point at the start of the crux traverse. 40m abseil to the bottom. 1.5hrs from summit to last abseil. Reverse the approach as for the Standard route. (1.5 hrs back to Keith Bush camp).
Essential Gear
2 x 50m Double ropes. Standard Berg rack. 5 pitons and hammerExternal Links
http://peakhigh.co.za/Peak High Mountaineering