Monks Cowl Standard Route

This is the most popular route on Monk’s Cowl and takes an unlikely line up the lower reaches of the south face. It also has surprisingly little roped climbing in comparison to the size of the peak and is in fact South Africa’s highest free standing, named peak. In the days before sticky rubber shoes, camming devices and wired-nuts, the crux was a formidable lead. Today it is simply a pleasant grade 15 pitch. Most of the roped climbing is in the shade and it can be bitterly cold climbing in wintertime. 

Getting There

From Keith Bush Camp,the objective is to get to the col between Cathkin and Monk’s Cowl and then to get around to the middle of the south face of the peak. The col is reached via a steep, wide grassy valley. From the campsite do not hike straight to the bottom of the wide valley, as there is bush and large rocks in the area. Instead, head upstream for a few hundred metres and pass a very large rounded boulder on the true left bank. Go past this a short distance and then cross to the cliffs running down from Monk’s Cowl and at the bottom of the wide grassy valley. From here, slog up the steep slope staying close the cliffs of Monk’s Cowl. At the col between Cathkin and Cowl, turn right onto a wide sloping grass band at the same level as the col. Follow this grass band, with a narrow section at half way, all the way around to the valley that runs up to between Champagne Castle and Monk’s Cowl. Then hike up this to near the base of the south side of the Monk’s Cowl. Walk right and scramble up to the highest grass knoll below the south face. A piton is found at this point, 2 hrs from Keith Bush Camp. 

Route Description

Start at the highest point of the grass band. 
1. 40m (E) Start at a piton. Climb up an easy right leaning recess to a narrow chute between two rocks. Then up easier rock and grass to a large bollard with old abseil slings. Carry on for another 15m to a large bay with a cubbyhole and 2 fixed anchors. 

2. 25m (F2) From the cubbyhole move left around a corner and onto a slab. Stay low and follow small holds and good friction for about 8m, then move diagonally up to a small anvil shaped rock below a grass ledge. Pull up onto the grass ledge and keep moving left over easy ground to a broken bay of rock in the next rock-band. Belay here from 2 in-situ pitons. The slab traverse can be protected using the overhanging cracks above. This is a fine piece of climbing. 

3. 20m (F1) Climb up easily through the bay and a piton on the right to a large grass ledge. Continue straight up through a rock band above to the next major ledge. This face above the grassy ledge is on good rock but very little protection. Variation: 35m (E) From the stance, climb up easily to the large grass ledge. Walk about 20m to the right on thick grass to a fixed abseil point. (This is the first abseil point on the descent).  If this variation is taken, it adds another pitch of easy climbing. See pitch 4. 

4. 40m (C) From the abseil point scramble up on grass then left and over some exposed and easy rock onto a large ledge. Walk along this for some 15m and belay from a bollard against the wall. This bollard is located at the top where the normal pitch 3 ends up the unprotected wall. Walk left along the major ledge and around a corner, now looking down into the valley between Champagne Castle and Monk’s Cowl. The top of the technical sections of Barry’s Route is at this point. After the corner, climb the first obvious break in the rock band above and then scramble up through a second rock band. Walk up diagonally left across a broad grass band and break through the final rock band at its far left hand (northern) corner. At this point, one looks straight down to Keith Bush Camp. (4hrs from start of roped climbing to summit). 

Descent: Reverse the route to the top of the technical climbing. Reverse the C grade pitch back and down to the abseil point mentioned on pitch 3 variation. Abseil 40m to the first cubbyhole and the fixed abseil point at the start of the traverse. Then a 40m abseil to the bottom. 1.5 hrs from summit to last abseil. Reverse the approach back to Keith Bush Camp (1.5hrs). 

Essential Gear

2x 50m double ropes. Standard Berg rack 

External Links