Monsters of the Wind | Climbing the South-West Ridge of Mount Ortholithi

Overview

"Monsters of the Wind" (IV+/V-, 500 m.) first ascent was on 16/02/2020 by Olympus Mountaineering, M. Tsokas and M. Karagiannis. The route follows the south-western ridge of Mount Ortholithi, offering an atmospheric climb overlooking the Saronic Gulf and Ermionida. The route can be described as an "adventure route" with great potential for free route selection. The route also does not present any difficulties in terms of safety with the use of temporary protection.

Getting There

From Athens one needs to drive towards Epidavros and from there should follow the road to Ermionida. Just after Trachia village, should follow the road to Karatzas village and from there to Choriza.

Total distance from Athens: 150 km

About 2 km before arriving in Choriza ( 37.520145, 23.233478 ), there is a dirt road where we can leave the car and start the approach hike.

The approach hike is an easy hike of about 10 minutes.

Parking lot coordinations: 37.522190, 23.230152 Beginning of the route: 37.525356, 23.234392

Route Description

R0 – R1

The route starts with the first pitch (35 m.) exactly at the base of the south-west ridge (37.525356, 23.234392) of a well-secured IV slab. Shortly before the slab is climbed, and as we enter a couloir, there are 3 meters of climb with grade IV + / V- and with a large loose boulder (attention!). The couloir is a bit shabby with loose rocks and the difficulty is IV UIAA. Having completed the couloir, we exit onto a ledge with rocks and make a belay with a large sling or a kevlar cordelette.

R1 – R2

From R1 to R2, the degree of difficulty is significantly reduced and until we find a characteristic slab of IV we can proceed without any rope protection.

R2 – R3

From R2 to R3, there is a IV UIAA grade passage on a slab about 4-5 meters tall. This passage is not very exposed and with a little care we reach a grassed slope. At this point, the view towards the Argosaronic sea begins to become unique.

R3 – R4

From R3 to R4, we follow (without being roped) the aesthetic ridge with stunning view to the Argosaronikos (east) mainly with scrambling of III+ grade. This part is almost 150 meters up to an obvious ledge, and it has a fairly low degree of danger and difficulty.

R4 – R5

From R4 to R5, there is another IV grade pass that starts as a dihedral (the first 3 m.) and ends to a rock wall/slab of about 4-5 meters. This passage can be well secured and protected.

R5 – R6

From R5 to R6, the terrain becomes very easy with a slope of up to 40 °, and is essentially a fairly uphill walk (with minimal scrambling).

R6 – R7

From R6 to R7, we’ll find a short slab (3m.) of IV degree difficulty that can eventually be climbed unroped (for experiences limbers), because it only has 2 IV degree movements.

R7 – Peak

Having reached R7, essentially the route is complete and we have about 90 m of hiking and scrambling of maximum III degree. At the top, we will find the old church of Profitis Elias, but also the “Monsters of the Wind” (wind turbines)

Return

The return starts from the peak and aims to descend to the village of Chora.

We start with an eastern course for about 450 m. and at point 37.527323, 23.247323, we turn right and descend to the couloir that leads us to low vegetation up to the goat trails. From there, we follow the goat trails that lead us to Chora village.

The descent takes about 75 minutes.

Essential Gear

For repeatingg the route one needs the following items:

- Wire nuts 1-10

- Friends/Cam up to #3

- Slings/Lanyards

- Kevlar cordelette

- 1 χ 60μ. rope or 2 χ 60 1/2 ropes

The route was done by using temporary protection. Belays are done with temporary protection

External Links

https://olympusmountaineering.wordpress.com/2020/07/03/monsters-of-the-wind-climbing-the-south-west-ridge-of-mount-ortholithi/