Mont Blanc - 3 Mounts Blanc Traverse Climber's Log

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Flachlandtiroler - Aug 6, 2024 8:03 am Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2024

Descending as part of Traverse Royale  Sucess!

Added a nicght at Gouter due to wind on the Royal Traverse. Descent via 3 Monts route. Col Maudit: Rappel station exists some 20m below the col but obviously all tracks seem to bypass this. Rappelling needs long double rope or other ends in much steeper terrain, keeping to the right (in sense of descent) provides 40...45 degree slopes till a last bergshrund with a fixed ropte (10m drop).
Same on the Tacul north slope, a short bergshrund right at the bottom requiring good front-pointing.

snowflake

snowflake - Aug 17, 2019 6:53 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2019

Glad to be on a classic  Sucess!

Left Cosmiques Refuge at 4:00 AM in order not to be caught behind the early starters, which would expose us longer to the serac danger on Tacul. Reached summit at 10. Beautiful warm day, all the warm clothes stayed in the pack and climbed only in my microfiber and cross-country ski gloves. 24 hours after we passed, a serac broke off and wiped out our tracks on Tacul. Lucky timing.

rob2681

rob2681 - Aug 8, 2018 2:56 am Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2018

Warm Conditions  Sucess!

Climbed from Cosmiques Refuge with a mountain guide. 1AM breakfast, reached summit in 6 and a half hours. The Col on Maudit was a bit icy. We used 2 axes. Sunrise over the Swiss Alps after crossing the shoulder of Maudit was amazing. Total time was almost 12 hours getting back to Aiguilles du Midi.

Ted Eliason

Ted Eliason - Sep 17, 2015 11:21 am Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2015

The big white hump  Sucess!

Knowing what we know now, would have taken the traverse over to the Bosses ridge to stay in the Gouter hut. A hard summit for less than obvious reason. The push past Maudit is deceptively long and tedious.

sout528

sout528 - Jun 26, 2013 7:22 pm

3 monts route  Sucess!

fantastic weather and climb. love this area.

smrk

smrk - Mar 16, 2013 4:19 pm

Beautiful windy summit

Beautiful day, beautiful climb, last part of the climb, big struggle in a wind. Still amazing

wein88

wein88 - Jan 24, 2013 5:49 am Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2011

Good climb  Sucess!

a little bit crowdy, 7 hours up, 6 hours down (from the top to the col du midi).

ZeroFC - Sep 19, 2012 8:10 pm Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2012

Long day   Sucess!

Free solo ascent made on the morning of Sept. 7th. From speaking to the staff at the Refuges Des Cosmiques, no one had summited this route in nearly 2 weeks due to a high avalanche risk advisory in effect and new crevice formations which were deemed difficult to spot because of fresh snow.

Close to 100 climbers at the refuge, 8 of us set out and 6 (4 person team and two soloists) of us made it to the summit.

It took nearly 12 hours to summit(2pm) - there was no trail after Mont Blanc du Tacul and we took a vertical ice climb through Mt. Maudit. I took another 12 hours going down the Gouter route till I arrived in the Chamonix Valley (2am) in one giant 24 hour effort.

skotty

skotty - Aug 18, 2011 11:23 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2011

great climb  Sucess!

a great traverse

rgg

rgg - Jan 10, 2011 5:03 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2009

Freezing cold  Sucess!

Climbed via Tacul and Maudit.
It was very cold, early in the morning high on the mountain, but later it turned out to be a beautiful day.

markhallam

markhallam - Dec 29, 2010 1:32 am Date Climbed: Jun 15, 1989

Mont Blanc traverse  Sucess!

I guided my boss from work over this route, starting on the Gouter and finishing on Aig Du Midi. We camped on the col between Mont Maudit and the Tacul to shorten what otherwise would have been a very long day. A lovely experience.

etai101

etai101 - Dec 17, 2010 12:21 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2010

a complament to the white mount  Sucess!

best rout from chamonix, sleeping in valle blanche is always a delight

Ides

Ides - Oct 20, 2010 8:35 am Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2010

Finally climbed it...  Sucess!

Long and hard route, done in 8h30 round trip from the Aiguille du Midi. Excellent snow conditions though, and good weather.

Martina Marmoška - Oct 9, 2010 6:05 pm Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2010

Finally at Blanc :-)  Sucess!

After non successful try over Gouter and Gonella...this is very nice route. It was clear but very cold, during the descent we had a front in the back...when we reached Midi again, started heavy snowing.

FabienenCordoba

FabienenCordoba - Aug 4, 2010 8:10 am Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2010

Very nice route  Sucess!

I was anticipating a somewhat boring slog but the 3 mounts traverse is in fact varied and interesting with some technical (albeit very manageable) difficulties. THere was a bit ladder put up on the bergshrund of the Mont Blanc du Tacul. Ice on the slope below the shoulder of the Mont Maudit.

Joerg Marretsch

Joerg Marretsch - Jul 11, 2010 2:38 pm Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2010

3 Mounts Traverse  Sucess!

From Ref. Cosmique over MB Tacul and Mt. Maudit shoulder to the summit. Good wheather and conditions. Some blue ice on the steep ascent to Mt MAudit shoulder.
Descent to Ref. Cosmique and Aguille du Midi cable car.

cabouckaert1

cabouckaert1 - May 26, 2010 9:34 am Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2009

Good, long climb  Sucess!

Route was good fun, especially maudit but quite crowded and tiring!

nattfodd

nattfodd - Sep 10, 2009 4:01 am Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2009

Soloed on beautiful day  Sucess!

Ok to solo, I had beautiful conditions (except some winds) but was quite slow. The last bit is torture, but the view from the summit is worth it all.

Descent via the goûter, long and boring except for the bosses ridge and the scramble below the refuge.

Roel - Aug 9, 2009 6:55 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2009

3 Monts Route  Sucess!

With Vanessa
From Cosmique hut

hernberg

hernberg - Jul 26, 2009 4:26 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2005

A lot of people from Cosmique  Sucess!

We lived in our tent below Cosmique, waking half the camp up with our XGK at 01.00 when everyone started from the hut

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