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LorenzRoute Climbed: Refuge Cosmique - Mont Blanc du Tacul - Mont Maudit - Mont Blanc Date Climbed: August 5th 2001  Sucess!

Lorenz

good conditions but very windy. Left the refuge at 2:00 AM and reached the top at 10:30 (slow due to very strong wind!!). Way back on the French normal route.



Lorenz
Posted Jul 15, 2002 5:54 am

vstarc16Route Climbed: Dome de Goter Route Date Climbed: 15. August 1998.  Sucess!
Nice climb in a perfect day.
Posted Jun 30, 2002 9:03 am

PliziRoute Climbed: travese from Tacul and Mt. Maudit Date Climbed: juni 2001  Sucess!

Plizi

Nice route with litte ice climbing but a lot of people

there.
Posted Jun 21, 2002 3:36 am

Rahel Maria LiuRoute Climbed: Normal Route via Grands Mulets Date Climbed: July 15, 2000

Rahel Maria Liu

The weather was very bad: fog and snowfall. Therefore we turned around at P. 4000m, shortly below the Vallot Bivouac Hut. It was a wise decision. To my experience, this is one of the most important things, which one has to learn for safe climbing: to find the right time to turn around.

About 4 weeks later (on August 14, 2000), I reached the summit of Mont Blanc - with blue sky and great sunshine.
Posted Jun 13, 2002 5:10 pm

Antony WalkerRoute Climbed: Three Cols Route Date Climbed: 15 June 2000  Sucess!

Antony Walker

A fantastic but long day from our camp site on top of the Mer de Glace just below the Cosmiques Hut. Left at midnight with the other hundred or so climbers but made good time and were one of the first to arrive at the steep climb below Mt.Maudit. Unfortunately one of the four on the rope came down with altitude fatigue after the steep section (which was a headache lead fighting off other climbers) but decided to push on. The pace slowed and only reached Mt.Blanc summit at 11:00am. A fantastic narrow summit with great views, and then pushed off down towards the Bossons Glacier route - literally a snow desert burning any exposed skin - and stayed at the hut above La Jonction. Cream crackered but very happy!
Posted May 27, 2002 10:43 pm

scotttroxelRoute Climbed: Three Peaks Date Climbed: June 7, 2001  Sucess!
Started at the Aguille du Midi and with telemarks, skiid the ridge to the shagrin of onlookers (shock for myself!) and slept at the Cosmiques. We started our ascent at 3am which hindsight tells me was a little late when telemarking the 3M route. Sunrise greeted us spectacularly on Maudit, but it was then that we realized that the wind would be fierce. It was slow going into the wind and the velocity rose to 70K plus (probably reaching temp. of -60)! My skins failed at one point on Maudit and it looked tricky to complete from there, but after some maintenance, and with a little luck, we carried on. The wind became so fierce underneath the summit that we secured our gear including skiis, and climbed the final approach with only our axes in hand. Silent , clear and magnificent at the summit with no other people around. Despite significant frostbite to the face, and a scary fall at the start, successfully tele'd down the north face and through the Grand Mulets !! A gorgeous and dangerous day at times, and certainly this mountain commands my respect and awe. Can't wait to do other routes!
Posted Apr 16, 2002 8:49 am

Diego SahagúnRoute Climbed: Dome du Goûter Date Climbed: 20 July 1990

Diego Sahagún

We (my father, two brothers and a friend of mine) were very inexperienced climbers at that moment. We have no experience with glacier climbing methods but it didn't matter us, we had the strengh. We tried Mont Blanc after having hiking a lot in the Massif: Mer de Glace, MB du Tacul, Glacier des Bossons, Petite Aiguille Verte. Passed the night before in refuge du Goûter (2-3 hours of sleep with every kind of noises on the dining-room floor), next day we reached refuge-bivouac Vallot after having started at 3 AM. We had a voting so descending was the winner (I voted to ascend) because people thought we have no time resting to take tramway back to the valley. Also a strong wind blowed at Vallot and we peged out. We just took the last railway to Saint Gervais.
Posted Apr 15, 2002 5:46 pm

thomas.schmeidlRoute Climbed: from aiguille de midi with ski Date Climbed: May 1992  Sucess!

thomas.schmeidl

We were only four climbers starting from refuge cosmiques but we could watch about 150 headlamps starting from the grandes mulets
Posted Mar 19, 2002 2:46 pm

tobiRoute Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: August 1999  Sucess!
Reached summit with blue sky and sunshine
Posted Feb 6, 2002 1:05 am

Bernhard SauerRoute Climbed: via East Face of Aiguille du Blanc and Peuterey Ridge Date Climbed: Summer 1982  Sucess!

Bernhard Sauer

started at night from the bivouac at Col de la Furche...did North Face of Aig. du Blanc in 3 hours without a rope and arrived the summit of Aig. du Blanc at sunrise...rappeled down to the begin of the Peuterey Ridge...climbed Peuterey Ridge without belay and arrived Mont Blanc Summit around 5 p.m. ...went down via Dome due Gouter and Aig. du Gouter and arrived Refuge du Gouter in the evening...very long day but wonderful impressions...highly recommended
Posted Jan 25, 2002 7:42 am

Bernhard SauerRoute Climbed: Traverse via Mont Maudit - Montblanc du Tacul - Montblanc - Dome du Gouter - Aig. du Gouter Date Climbed: Summer 1978  Sucess!

Bernhard Sauer

Started in the night from the old Refuge du Cosmique and arrived at Refuge Gouter late in the afternoon...worked as Mountain Guide and had a group of 8 people...wonderful day...great adventure for the group
Posted Jan 25, 2002 7:36 am

Bernhard SauerRoute Climbed: East Face - Brenva Ridge/Col Moore Date Climbed: August 1977  Sucess!

Bernhard Sauer

took us one a long day from the bivouac at the Col de la Fourche through the Brenva Ridge and back via Montblanc du Tacul to the old Refuge du Cosmique......recommended
Posted Jan 25, 2002 7:32 am

Bernhard SauerRoute Climbed: Normal route via Grand Mulet by Ski Date Climbed: May 1980  Sucess!

Bernhard Sauer

Solo...skied down the North flank from the summit...wonderful fresh power snow...a perfect day
Posted Jan 25, 2002 7:13 am

dirkclaessenRoute Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: July 1989  Sucess!
Easy but beautiful snow route. Fair weather but very cold and a lot of wind. From the Gouter hut it's only a short climb (about 3 h). Solo
Posted Dec 29, 2001 2:26 pm

Rahel Maria LiuRoute Climbed: Normal route via Grands Mulets Date Climbed: Aug/14/2000  Sucess!

Rahel Maria Liu

The route via Grands Mulets is long, but beautiful and lonely till Grands Mulets. From Biv. Vallot, the Bossesridge was, of course very crowded. I climbed the Bossesridge soloing.
Posted Dec 13, 2001 1:22 pm

schadikRoute Climbed: Gouter ridge - Les Trois Mt. blanc - Peuteray ridge Date Climbed: '91 '97 '98 '99 '00 '01  Sucess!

schadik

I have now been up the Mt. Blanc 22~23 times, and I've only backed off 5 times. This may sound like a lot but its nothing compared to some of the local Chamonix guides that I have spoken with (220+ times).

Its a fabulous mountain, with lots of history. I hope to climb it many more times, as long as I never catch up to my age, although that will probably happen soon. It would be nice to visit some of the other more obscure routes in the future.

There is no sunrise like a sunrise from the summit of Mt. Blanc. You can see and sometimes identify mountains on either end of the chain of the Alps, from the south of France all the way to Austria.
Posted Nov 20, 2001 11:31 am

Diego SahagúnRoute Climbed: Gouter Ridge Date Climbed: 15/8/01  Sucess!

Diego Sahagún

I reached the summit with 3 mates after passing 2 nights in tents. On descent we spent another night on Aiguille du Gouter because we were too tired after having wake up at 1:30 and walked for 10.5 hours. The Gouter hut is overcrowded in July and August. We were very lucky with the weather, otherwise you can't stay 4 days on the mountain. Read the weather information at Maison de la Montagne in Chamonix before parting. Be carefull with the overcrowd on the Gouter Couloir and the summit cornice. Also wear a helmet on the route between Tete Rouse and Gouter huts because of rocks falling. Go in good phisical condition because of the effort and height.
Posted Oct 27, 2001 5:04 pm

UlrichPrinzRoute Climbed: From Cosmiques Date Climbed: 14 September 1999  Sucess!

UlrichPrinz

This was my first time on a glacier, first time with crampons,

first time over 4000m, first time soloed a route, first time ... ;-)

Don't try this if you value your life !

If you have the knowledge & strenght though, this is

a far better (less crowded) route than the Gouter.
Posted Oct 25, 2001 12:54 pm

johanRoute Climbed: Route du Goûter up and Les Grand Mulets down Date Climbed: 24-27 August 2001  Sucess!

johan

Went up unexperienced without a guide. Thanks to good weather we made it to the top. Tips: Bring a guide with you!



The whole story is to be read at: http://www.cern.ch/johan.karlsson/montblancsummary.html



Be carefull!



/Johan
Posted Oct 12, 2001 8:13 am

zappa18Route Climbed: Goutier Route Date Climbed: 28/8/01  Sucess!
Very nice mountain.

We make it on 2 days on the usual route (Goutier Route). The first day is around4-5 hours of walking and a little non-technic rock climb.

The second day (starting at 3 am) is much more difficult, and it took 5 hour to reach the summit.

It's worth it!
Posted Oct 7, 2001 7:50 am

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